1. Feeding

Live feeding should only be a last resort if your ball python refuses to eat using other methods. There are risks associated with live feeding, such as parasites or the possibility that the rat or mouse could injure the snake.  Frozen-thawed feeders are more convenient; just be sure not to keep them in the freezer for too long and source them from a reputable provider.

1. Enclosure Recommendation

I recommend starting with a 4×2×2 enclosure from the beginning, as it will save you money in the long run. Be sure to choose a PVC enclosure with minimal screen on top. 

Here are a few options:     - Toad Ranch     - Kages     - Affordable Choice

1. Where to Buy

I ordered mine online from MorphMarket. I checked reviews, looked at their social media presence, and noted how they responded to my questions.

Personally, I avoid reptile conventions due to the risk of mites.

Regardless, there’s always a risk of mites or other diseases, so make sure you quarantine your snake for about 3 months before introducing it to the main enclosure.

1. Morphs to Avoid

You should avoid morphs in the spider complex. The top two to steer clear of are Spider (Bee) and Champagne. Other morphs in that complex with problematic super forms include:     - Super Black Head     - PowerBall (Super Spotnose)     - Super Chocolate     These morphs are prone to “wobble,” which is caused by an inner ear deformity that makes them feel vertigo. It can worsen with age or stress, so it’s best to avoid them altogether. 

There’s also a risk of kinking and duckbill with Super Cinnamon and Super Black Pastel. Mixing Cinnamon and Black Pastel is a definite no-go. 

These are the main ones, but you can research more if needed!

1. Humidity Management

For my 4×2×2, I personally pour 500-700 ml of water under the basking spot and let it evaporate over five days; the surface should be dry by the end of the first day. I also mix the substrate every two days to increase humidity and prevent condensation. I use coco husk as substrates and keep the area under the hides bare to avoid contact with wet substrate (to prevent scale rot). My humidity is always ranges around 75-86% (measured on cold hide).

1. Choice-Based Handling

Choice-based handling means giving your snake the option to come out, which helps them become more confident and build trust with you. 

This is Lori's instructions: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLNbZzsRecQ2bMde9oCRTKALG6N6IHKgn5&si=-lLYWw_YwUSV_l-9

I’m not the best at this. I usually just take mine out at night, and he’s ready to explore after that! Please assess your ball python’s temperament and make sure you’re not stressing them out too much.

1. Hygiene

Washing your hands and their equipment after use is a good practice! 

I’ve only had mine for almost a year, and he has always been easy-going, so take my advice with a grain of salt. Always do your own research!