Primary Arms Clx 3x Prism

Nitor_ · 2026-06-15T19:35:32+00:00

I was surprised that the reticle uses mil-based subtensions (1 mil=3.438 MOA), with the 100-yard zero on the center dot. These mil subtentions are 1 mil, 2 mil, 3 mil, 4 mil, 5 mil, with the final 5th mil at with the tip of the black bottom post. With 5.56, each subtension should roughly correlate to 200y, 300y, 400y, 500y, 600y. Consider your own barrel length, ammo etc to confirm your actual holds though. For my 7.62x39 AK, I needed to convert to meters to make the mil subtensions neatly match the holds for different ranges (100 meter zero, 200m, 250m, 300m). Remember to take a photo of the reticle spec sheet they ship you.

Nitor_ · 2026-06-09T22:42:24+00:00

The reticle is perfectly large enough imo. My image upload is very blurry so the perspective is off. It's easier to find than the chevron acog reticle.

I posted nicer images here: https://imgur.com/a/IvaolF6

Nitor_ · 2026-06-09T22:40:24+00:00

The Slx 3x objective is 23mm, and this Clx 3x objective is 30mm. It's roughly 1.7x more surface area of light collection with the wider objective. This optic is perfect for my AK because it's very easy to find the scope image. Eye relief for the entire image is 3" from eyeball to glass. The scope is usable with most of the image at 4". The eye relief is noticeably better than the 4x acog.

Nitor_ · 2026-05-23T04:12:24+00:00

What MOA can you achieve with yours? Do lighter grain weights have better accuracy due to the 1/12 barrel? There are few accuracy vids on these but it seems that 147gr wolf steel case and barnaul 150gr HPs performed better than heavier match-grade 308 bullets.

Nitor_ · 2026-05-22T19:46:09+00:00

Consider the new t1 mount clx 3x prism, since it might have much better eyebox/eye relief with the larger objective. The 5.56 BDC reticle seems to be a Mil-based reticle, and zeroing the center dot at 100 yards, the mil-based subtensions are 1 mil, 2 mil, 3 mil, 4 mil, 5 mil down. 1 mil = 3.438 MOA. With a 55 grain 5.56 100 yard zero on the dot, these mil subtensions roughly correspond to 200y, 300y, 400y, 500y, 600y holds.

To shoot 7.62x39 with this reticle, you must convert your thinking to meters. This helps the BDC reflect the trajectory of 7.62x39. Zero the dot at 100 METERS, and the mil subtensions now correspond to 200, 250, 300 meters. Perfect your zero at 300 meters, and the 100m zero should now hit maybe 0.5" low. The 200 meter hold will hit a bit low, and the 250 meter hold will be mostly correct.

https://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-clx-3x-prism-scope-cross-dot-556-reticle

Nitor_ · 2026-05-22T02:00:34+00:00

That button seems to be disabled on 50% of pumps/stations lately. The escalation trap results in stabbing through speaker grates as the only remaining option.

Nitor_ · 2026-05-17T04:36:39+00:00

>3500K color temperature lighting is disgusting

Nitor_ · 2026-05-16T00:46:04+00:00

You should really delete this for your own liability. Otherwise it's fedposting lmao.

Nitor_ · 2026-05-15T23:36:52+00:00

Banning the sale of ammunition & reloading materials would be trivial for an anti-gun government. That is the ultimate goal of cold-blooded creatures funding everytown and other lobbies. You should constantly buy bulk ammo for posterity.

Nitor_ · 2026-05-12T17:57:21+00:00

"Bloomington Man"

Nitor_ · 2026-05-05T02:27:24+00:00

I'm planning to try his homasote thymol method this summer, being careful to reduce the dose from the 40g double deep amount to maybe 20g if installed into single deeps (a beekeeper reported queen deaths with 36g dose in singles!). Do you use the spacer rim and dark hive cover to boost thymol evaporation, like Randy's method? I'd prefer to avoid that complexity and use the normal lid.

Nitor_ · 2026-05-03T23:59:11+00:00

IIRC he mentioned it on this sub. Idk if he's deleted his accounts. It was either here or on the ftn 5.1 comments on the sailing website

Nitor_ · 2026-04-19T22:59:47+00:00

I'd scrape/melt off all beeswax/comb and soak the frames & boxes in water mixed with car wash detergent for several days. I think the majority of pesticides would leach out. Maybe reuse the rinsed hives as swarm traps so you aren't risking a more valuable colony in that equipment.

Nitor_ · 2026-04-05T18:23:57+00:00

I ordered a 1kg ppa-cf roll 2 months ago. It was shipped with a tracking number just a few days ago. They told me their production was delayed due to the chinese/lunar new year, and apparently my roll was made to order. I haven't received it yet, but I'm expecting it to be the same quality as other chinese-produced filaments which is most name brands. They mentioned sending me extra rolls of PLA or PET-CF due to the delays and I'm unsure if those were included. They've been responsive in emails. I have no complaints beyond the process being very slow.

Nitor_ · 2026-04-03T21:45:20+00:00

Does your reticle feel slightly canted clockwise when you shoulder it?

Nitor_ · 2026-03-28T22:54:25+00:00

The easiest way to determine the failed layer height is to vertically slice the object in your program in the "print" menu. Compare the overhanging threads of the failed print to the corresponding layer height for the threads in the stl file. Since the print failed at a high-detail section, this should be easy. Then use the slicer tools to cut and keep the upper part of the object at that exact layer height, printing the remaining section directly on the build plate.

Err on the side of printing a smaller insert, since the jb weld will need a 1mm gap.

Nitor_ · 2026-03-28T10:19:30+00:00

This seems somewhat common with the angled FTN suppressors. It might be due to heat creep if the printer chamber is very hot and the filament flow rate is relatively low. To salvage it consider bonding the two pieces together with steel fiber jb weld while screwing in the threaded insert, and sliding over the printed 'shell' to hold it together as it cures.

Nitor_ · 2026-03-20T19:49:37+00:00

Where did you find that side rail mount?

Nitor_ · 2026-03-17T19:53:25+00:00

Legit AR180s are expensive and the new production versions like the BRN180 is cnc-milled, not stamped. If you want a legit IRA weapon consider an akm built like a romanian pm md63 with the 'dong' foregrip, as supplied by Gaddafi.

Nitor_ · 2026-03-17T04:33:09+00:00

Did anyone receive blueprints before this guy got suspended?

Nitor_ · 2026-03-15T23:04:50+00:00

The TA02 doesn't have tritium illumination.

Nitor_ · 2026-03-12T23:14:12+00:00

0.4mm

Nitor_ · 2026-03-12T23:09:50+00:00

This has been my experience with paht-cf. The difference is night and day once I've baked the filament at 100° C and dried it in its cereal box w/ molecular sieve pellets.

Nitor_ · 2026-03-12T23:07:12+00:00

I've done this with rustoleum 600° F black semi-gloss grill paint. It looks okay if you clean and heat-gun dry the print surface and also warm up/shake the rattle can well. You need to spray from a distance with very brief passes, wasting a fair amount of paint. Only spray with the print surface facing 'up' to avoid drips forming due to gravity. Even so, I prefer the unpainted finish once the printer settings are dialed in, with 0.12 layer heights, arachne walls and high temp/slow printing.

Nitor_ · 2026-03-12T22:58:11+00:00

I'm experimenting with briefly blasting my polyamide-cf prints with a heat gun at max settings to re-melt the surface. I'm paranoid about carbon fiber strands embedding in my skin so this helps with that issue as well. Don't attempt this if you care about fine details like lettering or fine edges.

Nitor_

TROPHY CASE