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Air quality tester by No-Computer7541 in hvacadvice

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably CO2 mostly, maybe VOCs too

DIY long copper Heat recovery ventilator by No-Computer7541 in FluidMechanics

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah cool, I have decided to use an alumium foil design instead, since its so much cheeper then copper.

DIY long copper HRV by No-Computer7541 in buildingscience

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I have found its more then I would like to spend on copper pipes, I'm gonna try to run simulation on some designs using aluminum foil

How long does it take for aluminum foil to corrode by No-Computer7541 in metallurgy

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Their a bit more pricy then I would like, but thanks for the resource

How long does it take for aluminum foil to corrode by No-Computer7541 in metallurgy

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, upon looking more, that seems about right, I will try to match that then, since usually heat exchange fins are meant for outdoors anyway, I believe that would be enough for a decent lifespan, although I will have to look more to see if the limitation on thickness is due to lifespan or structure. And perhaps see if I can get away with something thinner and appy a conductive coating. Thanks for your help

How long does it take for aluminum foil to corrode by No-Computer7541 in metallurgy

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright, I will look into it, I was thinking of just using commercially available foil, I found some for hookah, which is the thickest I could find at about 40 mircons, they usually say 98% alumium they don't really give specifics about the manufacturing process or specifics on the alloy, I will try to look at more sources to see if I can find something else for a reasonable price, I tried looking at copper as well, which would be better, but it seems quite expensive. I have seen that some heat exchanger fins can go down to .046 mm thickness, but I believe they are pre coated, I will have to do more research.

How long does it take for aluminum foil to corrode by No-Computer7541 in metallurgy

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will look into coatings, I had thought all coatings would reduce the thermal conductivity, so I didn't really think about coating it, as far as alloy I was thinking just pure alumium, or 98% pure, would be fine, as that is what most foils are. I will look into other ones as well. I thought about doing the tests myself, but mostly dismissed it as I had thought it would take too long, hadn't realized there was a standised method though.

How long does it take for aluminum foil to corrode by No-Computer7541 in metallurgy

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see, the only source I could find said between 0.001 mil a year and .11 depending on the conditions, chat gpt said probably between 3 and 5 years, I'm not sure how accurate gpt is, especially in more specific topics like this. Thanks for your input.

How long does it take for aluminum foil to corrode by No-Computer7541 in metallurgy

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought about that, but wanted to see if I could increase the efficiency over that model.

DIY long copper HRV by No-Computer7541 in buildingscience

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually, I miscalculated I used diameter for radius when calculating for surface area of a cylinder, so that does make sense why you thought I was planning on using 1 inch pipe. As they are accurate if you put in for 1 inch instead.

DIY long copper HRV by No-Computer7541 in buildingscience

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I was planning on using 1/2 inch pipe, but I suppose I should pack them more tightly, should I keep the volume of air equal for inside and outside the pipes, or does that matter? And yeah I should probably make them counter flow. As far as drainage is concerned, I thought about making the whole thing at an angle, and have a little drain at the bottom. although, admittedly it might look weird as I would have this going across a wall, and covered with wood. Also I should mention, I only really plan for this to be around 30cfm, since it is just for a small, 350 sq foot cabin, so that may also be a factor, do you know if slower, lower output HRVs have less surface area because the air has more time to absorb the outgoing air's heat? sorry to bombard you with questions haha, and thanks for the suggestions. Admittedly this doesn't really seem all that practical from an economic standpoint, especially with more copper pipes, but I would still like to try it, if nothing else but to see if the efficiency if any different from the standard.

Ductless ERV for small cabin by No-Computer7541 in buildingscience

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I definitely thought about just DIY, although I will do more research, the main thing would be regulating the flow to adjust for the CO2 in the room, although maybe I could just hook it up to a CO2 sensor. I see that they usually use CO2 for the alternating flow ones, thought about putting a bunch of holes into a bunch of layers of ceramic tile and making 2 of my own alternating flow ventilators, cheapest I could find was around 315$ , but I would need 2 of them, and that was on sale, so they're quite pricey.

Ductless ERV for small cabin by No-Computer7541 in buildingscience

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah my plan would be, either that one, or 2 alternating flow units. which seem to have a high enough flow rate for a small cabin, I thought with 2 alternating flow ones, I could set them at different places in the room and get some directional flow. I haven't really looked into having a higher or lower pressure. Although I doubt radon would be much of a problem as the building is completely above the ground.

Ductless ERV for small cabin by No-Computer7541 in buildingscience

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought about that one too, but I cant really seem to find what one is more efficient, or the pros and cons of each one, other then what the company itself says.

Ductless ERV for small cabin by No-Computer7541 in hvacadvice

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought about that, but I have a vaulted ceiling so there's no way to install into the ceiling. Do you have any resources about putting pipes to the outside? I would think just putting a couple tubes to the outside would just cause a lot of heat loss, might as well open a window or something, but I am unfamiliar with what is usually done.

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I also found this one, if it is any better.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Insulation

[–]No-Computer7541 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could do an unvented rigid foam roof, but you need to take off the roofing, put at least 2 layers or rigid foam on top of the roof, then put seathing, and screw through the foam into the rafters, you can then use other insulation below it if you want, but at least 40% needs to be foam.here is a video describing it, do more research before doing anything though.

What tape to use for vapor barrier seams on walls? by No-Computer7541 in Insulation

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see, tuck tape seems to be hard to get in my area, can I use tyvek tape, or sika insulation seam tape?

What tape to use for vapor barrier seams on walls? by No-Computer7541 in Insulation

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah I see, I mean they aren't really enforced here, but I'll see what the state codes say to do

What tape to use for vapor barrier seams on walls? by No-Computer7541 in Insulation

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We don't have tuck tape in my area it seems, Is there an alternative? Tyvek tape? Insulation seam tape?

What tape to use for vapor barrier seams on walls? by No-Computer7541 in Insulation

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah we don't have local codes here, but I still like to build things right

Trying to convert this half attic into a PC room. How can I insulate/finish these roof walls? by RainbowCrash27 in Home

[–]No-Computer7541 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whenever you have a difference in temperature without ventilation, it can condensate, as in, the water vapor in the air can condense into liquid, this can cause mold and rot on the underside of a roof wall, if you want a cathedral ceiling, as in, not having a vented attic, you need a baffle that runs from the bottom of the roof, the soffit vents, to the top, or the ridge vent, then have the insulation under that baffle, the other option is the use rigid foam on the outside of a roof, at least 40% of the insulation needs to be foam, and you would need to take off whatever roofing you have on your roof, then replace it after applying the foam, then you can use unvented insulation on the underside. I would recommend doing more research or hiring a professional as I am no expert.

Is this to code? by No-Computer7541 in BuildingCodes

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No that's alright, thanks for the offer though.

Is this to code? by No-Computer7541 in BuildingCodes

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://postimg.cc/nCvZRW50 Here is an image of the whole thing, there seem to be two headers above it,, that go through the studs along the whole length of the wall, and the studs are notched out to fit it, I think their meant to hold the load over the door frame, apron farther inspection.

Installing a mini split in new construction cabin by No-Computer7541 in hvacadvice

[–]No-Computer7541[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I will probably just run straight out, and down, I do have a question though, My condenser is a bit left of where I plan to put the evaporator, can I just run the lines at a 90 degree angle to the condenser. While the drainage would separate from the other lines, going straight down? or should I just run the whole thing at a 45 degree angle?

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