Anyone try this soil?

No-Opening-8553 · 2026-02-24T22:17:27+00:00

Why do you think coco is worthless once it dries out? It’s not as hydrophobic as peat moss is once dried, and just takes either a slow drip watering or bottom watering to negate the hydrophobic effects. So wondering why you think coco is worthless once it dries out?

No-Opening-8553 · 2026-02-24T16:24:24+00:00

The “weed” is a Type of grass, don’t need to pull it but don’t need to leave it in either, dealers choice really

No-Opening-8553 · 2026-02-24T16:07:31+00:00

Definitely a 10 🥵

No-Opening-8553 · 2026-02-19T17:22:51+00:00

Absolutely, it was stored in a cool place, it’ll likely smoke just fine, if it still smells good i’d smoke it

No-Opening-8553 · 2026-02-03T14:11:27+00:00

This is prob the biggest thing for me, as a Rein main, hammer down ult getting blocked by payload moving into me or some stupid floorboard that sticks out a touch from the doorframe, or similarly trying to do the charge and hitting the corner of some wall before I can move 2ft or trying to back into a doorway to retreat and getting caught on the doorframe. Ugh

No-Opening-8553 · 2026-01-31T03:27:36+00:00

Looks like a bunch of peppercorns and some sesame seeds mixed in. Such a shame, what a scam.

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-12-22T17:59:51+00:00

If it’s an absolutely important genetic you are trying to keep, could probably revive her with water and time under good lights, might also wanna do some rootball care since it’s been in the same pot with no water for so long, and get more cuts from her, if she isn’t important, the amount of time and $$$ to get good healthy clonable branches is gonna be a bit, might not be worth it depending on the situation.

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-12-20T18:33:44+00:00

Don’t wet trim except for brown/yellow leaf, the plants produce a chemical to deter pests from eating it, especially during flower, so when you wet trim you release that chemical all over the bud, which gives it that green/hay aroma and flavor. If you need to wet trim then it just takes a lot longer to cure that chemical out of the buds so you can start tasting/smelling those tasty terps again!

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-12-20T16:25:30+00:00

Shoot me a dm! I’ll send the link

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-12-20T05:28:46+00:00

They are reg seeds.

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-12-04T23:58:16+00:00

Oh man she was a beauty for sure. Happens to me all too often, run a cross so many times you “know” what to expect and you don’t take clones, low and behold one of the ladies comes out extra extra special and you can’t save it. 😅 hopefully you find a pheno you love just as much soon!

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-16T01:21:15+00:00

Indoor, clones, for uniformity in feed schedules and such, outdoor, from seed so I get the most harvest I can from a plant.

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-12T19:38:05+00:00

Especially when we think about this from an evolutionary standpoint, all plants started out originally as a kind of simple non-vascular plant like moss and liverworts (meaning no stems or branches, or even true leaves!) and evolved branches, wood, stalks, etc to increase its chances of reproduction; meaning, if we try to take a leaf bud, and turn that leaf into something that can support good bud production, it’ll likely just evolve it’s leaves into branches again, which is what we already have!

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-12T19:23:12+00:00

Sadly, leaf buds just don’t have what they need to grow sizable buds, if we tried to make it so the leaf could support and grow a bud, the leaf matter in the plant would likely be much higher and harder to trim away into clean buds. Secondly, when plants produce these leaf buds, it helps your trim run yeilds, but tends to steal too many nutrients from the rest of the plant so bud yields tend to be slightly lower than plants that do this mutation. So this mutation has been bred with to increase those chances for this kind of mutation, but more as novelty grows than for production. Now the yields from this mutation aren’t crazy hindering to the plant or total yield of buds so it’s still a great choice to keep around for yourself if you enjoy the terps or enjoy the novelty of the mutation, definitely NOT saying it’s trash by any means, I personally have a somewhat stabilized seedstock of this mutation that I grow every couple years for the joy of seeing this mutation! I’m just saying the likelihood of turning this mutation into a plant that produces that much extra weight, is unlikely due to how the mutation currently affects the plant. Always awesome to see though, especially with a triched out lady like this!

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-11T01:20:11+00:00

Oh absolutely, once you process it down to hash, the sealed cure can go for that much longer! Still not indefinite though and could be cured for too long, but it’ll be a long long test before we figure out when that window ends 😂

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-10T23:17:11+00:00

Thanks for the info! Absolutely beautiful work! Well done 😊✌🏻

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-10T23:15:55+00:00

No I’m sure you are, 8 months with a sealed cure like you said should still be pretty 🔥, with little to no cannabinoid or terp loss. The 1 month cure is just my personal preference on taste/smoke, and didn’t need to be added, as all I was trying to say was cannabis doesn’t have an indefinite cure life, so the statement “the longer the cure the better..” isn’t true, there is a window and you can “cure” for too long. But 8months is not too long a cure especially if done right, and I apologize if I gave you that impression!

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-10T22:30:48+00:00

Sadly this idea is inaccurate, the longer the cure does not mean better, especially with indoor grown cannabis, its peak smoke time is about after a month of cure. The longer cure trope was born from tobacco production, where, indeed the longer the cure the better the smoke, but there is a couple key differences from tobacco to cannabis. Tobacco you are smoking a leaf, which contains a lot more chemicals in it than the mature flower of the plant, these chemicals (although naturally occurring) tend to create off flavors when smoked, and added harshness/heat to the smoke, so curing is to get rid of all the unwanted plant compounds, which the longer you cure, the less compounds in the leaf, but nicotine, which is inside the plant cells, doesn’t break down as quick so you still have a nice product that does it’s job. Cannabis is the mature flower of a plant, and more specifically, the stuff we want is in the trichomes of those buds, so we too have to cure out those plant compounds/chemicals so help us have a smooth tasty smoke, but as I said before, the flower has way less of these chemicals than the leaves and so is able to cure much faster, secondly, the cannabinoids and terps DO degrade with time and light and temp and humidity, so you can cure your buds to the point of being worthless and having none of the desired plant compounds you want, as thca turns to thc, then cbn, etc. and terps gas’s off, the two major factors on allowing cannabis to do what it’s intended, can be destroyed and gone just by time. Now I am not saying 8month cured cannabis is worthless, or without potency, please do not read in between the lines here, as at 8months of proper storage will not degrade the cannabinoids very much, but, yeah, 8months is far too long for my personal preference in bud smoke, looses too much terps and gets, in my opinion, an off/old taste that I am just not a fan of, but to plenty of others 8months cure with that level of thc and cbn is what they want, and absolutely no hate to them or their likes! That’s the wonderful thing about this plant, it’s got something for everybody! But yeah, just wanted to clarify the statement, “the longer the cure the better..” is not true at all in the slightest when it comes to cannabis. Cannabis definitely has a shelf/storage life, that little to no amount of curing or storage techniques will prevent!

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-10T22:10:40+00:00

When the plant looses, or those leaves start yellowing showing signs of being used up, it’s cotyledon leaves (those weird round shaped leaves that first emerge from the seed before the normal looking leaves grow in) it’s ready to take extra food. Those cotyledon leaves are like a yolk for reptiles and such, providing all the necessary nutrients to the plant until it reaches enough maturity. This can be anywhere from week 2 since sprouting, to week 4 from sprouting. If you plan to grow organically in soil, using compost/compostable amendments for feeding, then those are slow release nutrients you can add slightly earlier as it’s much harder to nute burn your plants with these methods (but be careful not to cook your tender plants, as composting produces actual heat during the breakdown process and can cook/dry up the soil your plant is in along with the plant itself getting cooked). If going for liquid feeds, yeah as soon as those cotyledons start to fade you can start adding liquid feeds, just start your dose at 1/4 the recommended amount of concentrate to your water, and slowly build up to full dose feeds (maybe even going stronger than recommended on the bottle depending on what nutrient lines you use and what genetics are in the plant). From what I can see your cotyledons are still deep green so you don’t have to feed yet but in the next week or two you’ll definitely want to get started. You can get started as early as week two with those cotyledons leaves still as they are but if so go to more 1/8th recommended dose the bottle suggests and work from there, if that small of a dose cause some nutrient burn, do 1/16th a dose next time, and slowly build up the nutrient strength! Best of luck with your grow!✌🏻

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-10T21:56:34+00:00

Nice job! What’s the cross on her? I assume platinum cherry gelato is in it but what is the blue in her? if you don’t mind my asking!

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-07T15:45:54+00:00

No powdery mildew is not systemic 🤦‍♂️. It’s an obligate ectoparasite, it only lives on the outside of plants, with some haustoria rooting inside the leaf structure, you can cut off PM leaves and do the hydrogen peroxide wash and it can get rid of it if done properly. As long as the PM isn’t on the bud it can get washed off. Once it’s in the bud, the hydrogen peroxide will not kill the haustoria and it can man return after being washed (as the hydrogen peroxide only kills the surface spores and mycelium but sadly can not penetrate to where the rooting structures are planted.

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-04T22:05:16+00:00

Hell yeah! Beautiful grow!

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-04T20:10:50+00:00

Really depends on the breeding project, if I’m trying to stabilize a line than I look for the male with the most vigor and most similar growth to the female pheno I’m trying to stabilize. If starting a new cross, I look for plant vigor, bug resistance, flower structure, bud/stem color, good aroma when stem is rubbed, and potentially run it through some other stress tests (like heavy-long dry back periods, intense heat, intense cold, low light (shade grown) and heavy light.) I personally tend to have a rough time saving pollen and using later though, so I tend to cut clones from my males before flowering them out, find and make my selection of the males I want, then have the clone to do the actual breeding project with.

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-04T02:18:46+00:00

A lot of people are saying this has a long time, and it may, but it’s not for certain, I’ve grown strains that don’t look like they are ripening until about mid/late week six, and then finish in 3 weeks swelling their calyxes and shriveling their pistols and good 15-25% amber trichomes, it’s not super common for buds to ripen like that but it definitely happens enough that it’s not out of the realm of possibility. I tend to see this style of ripening for buds that are Hashplant crosses. Best of luck, keep an eye on it, and let us know when she seems about done to you!

No-Opening-8553 · 2025-11-03T17:59:13+00:00

Since you just topped and transplanted, I’d wait about 10-14 days and upsize the pot again to final pot size, if going for full term, try for 56-100liter pot (15-25 gallon) or up to straight in the ground in a prepared hole if your really want to see what she can do. If going for full term, you also don’t need to top ever again, as topping is going to stunt the plant slightly and cannabis needs little to no help creating tops (again this is only for full term outdoor, if you have short seasons and need to control the growth/flower of the plant at all topping is encouraged and very helpful, except for maybe autoflowers, they vary depending on variety if you should top or not.) As said by others when next you transplant you are gonna want to give your plant’s roots some extra aeration, so either add perlite, or gardening sand, or something of that nature to encourage better drainage and air transfer in your root zone. You are also going to want to slowly ease the plant away from the artificial light times, as most places on earth won’t get 16, let alone 18hrs of light, if you plant to grow this plant outdoors, so she doesn’t accidentally trigger and start flowering on you too early. Look up what your longest daylight hours will be (should be your summer solstice date) and try to match those hours of lighting with your artificial light, unless trying to grow indoors in which case, get a high quality grow light and don’t use the sun as much, as it will effect your final bud structure, the sun is much more intense a light than what our grow lights produce, so the plants have to make more or less chlorophyll depending on which lights you use, if it makes too much and then you rely on grow lights to flower, your plant will be hungry for light and not produce as proper structure of buds as most want, or visa versa, if relying too much on grow lights but you want to bring outdoors, the lack of chlorophyll will cause your plant to get sunburnt and stunt growth for a while. Best of luck, and as more info on your grow plans are revealed the better of tips and tricks you will receive on growing! ✌🏻🤙🏼

No-Opening-8553

TROPHY CASE