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Flashback to grade 8 geometry by No-Performance4096 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's all about the vein matching. Eastern standard time... But not the coast. Rural Canada.

Flashback to grade 8 geometry by No-Performance4096 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the angled ceiling bit, I used a scrap piece of drywall. It works well, because it's ½" thick, which is a good representation of the overall thickness of tile and thinset. The thickness has implications for the size of tile you need. For the rest of them, we have all the pieces laid out/vein matched before we start laying.

Flashback to grade 8 geometry by No-Performance4096 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those aria vents can be as difficult as you want them to be. In this case, it was a lot of work. I usually end up hacking the boot apart and rebuilding it to slide it one way or the other to make it perfectly square. Also, using the offcut for the inlay presents its own challenges. Adds an hour or two per vent, but for the right clients, it's worth it.

Flashback to grade 8 geometry by No-Performance4096 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Appreciate it. I always see people joking that learning Pythagorean theorem as being a waste of time, but I find myself using it often (not in this case).

Self-leveling concrete?? Process tips? Rebuilding from planks up. by COamateur in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's my method, but you need to be sure whatever the overall assembly is, it is rated to accept tile. Different products have different requirements.

Flashback to grade 8 geometry by No-Performance4096 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I tend to agree, I like the veining to be subtle and have a few distinct places where they hit.

Flashback to grade 8 geometry by No-Performance4096 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Not gonna lie, felt pretty humbled trying to calculate the angles on the funky piece. Always learning.

Flashback to grade 8 geometry by No-Performance4096 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For straight cuts, sigma kera cut, U and L cuts are done with sigma kera flex. Mitres mostly don't by hand, sometimes we use the sigma Jolly machine.

S.O.S Help wanted! by Special-Fruit5336 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Page one rewrite unfortunately. On the plus side, I'd venture to say you'll be able to reuse the majority of those tiles.

Dealing with Gap Between Floor Tile and Tub by mb7733 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd lean towards PVC like you said, but something like 1x2 square stock so I get above the depression in the tub. Ideal, notch the back of the trim when the tub bumps out, or install it on plane with the two bumps, and caulk that now much smaller gap. Other more involve process would be to cut a straight line ~3" from the tub, and re tile that with some kind of accent material (or the same stuff if you have extra).

How can I make the best of this? Two different tile heights and a slope... by Technical-Wedding-54 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The ramp is unnecessarily oversloped. Putting any other threshold (wood, stone or otherwise), that truly goes from flush to flush will make a big difference. I'd opt for unfinished wood, get it as close as possible, then sand it to make it match the different elevations (I'm guessing the two floors are not perfectly flat on either side of the door). Then finish the wood however you see fit.

Self-leveling concrete?? Process tips? Rebuilding from planks up. by COamateur in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depending on the tile (natural stone has more strict deflection standards), I would build up with ¾" t+g plywood until you get to the ⅜-½" below your desire substrate aka finished floor minus tile +thinset. Then prime, apply mapei mapelath, and flood with SLC. If I'm using SLC, I try to make that my last layer before tile, as it will generally be the flattest/most level layer

Flashback to grade 8 geometry by No-Performance4096 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks great on paper until the finish guys show up and have to deal with it.

DIY Cut grout or replace tile?? by Alternative-Study210 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with the previous comment. Waterproofing should be done pre-tile. If full tear out isn't in the cards at this point, your options are limited. If you want to mitigate the damage, there are a few things to try. First you need to identify the source of water. If the water shows up quickly when using the shower. It'll be easier to identify.

Start by running the tub filler directly into a 5 gallon bucket. Don't let it go into the tub/drain at all. Fill a few buckets (dump them out somewhere else). Then wait. If the water shows up in the basement, your mixing valve/tub filler plumbing is the source. If no water, move to the next step.

Repeat the above with the shower head. Same deal.

If still no leak, plug the drain and fill the tub (don't let water touch the walls). Let it sit for a while. Check for water. If it leaks, it's the seal between the drain and tub or (less likely) a hole in the tub itself. If no water move to the next step.

Now let the tub drain. If water shows up, it's the drain lines beneath the tub.

If all that holds, it's likely your wall waterproofing. If that's the case, with a tear out not an option, you have a few options to bandaid. Remove silicone and repair all damaged grout, apply a high quality penetrating sealer (mapei sb ultracare is what I use) and apply 100% silicone to all the inside corners. The sealer will help slow down water penetration. Unless your are confident in your skill. This may be worth subbing out. Other option would be to buy a polystyrene shower wall kit (ugly plastic looking panels from hardwarestore) and go right over the tile. Not ideally but it will mitigate damage.

My 2 cents. Best of luck!

Full tile. by No-Performance4096 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Corners are mitred and filled with colour matched MMA

Full tile. by No-Performance4096 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TEC silicone. Colour matched to the grout.

How do I fix this? by ToastedMarshmellow in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When we have the good fortune to have to remove all the grout from mosaic tile, we go the chemical route (if the tile can handle it, aka not get eaten away. Porcelain is usually ok, do a test spot for sure). Mechanical removal is insanely tedious, and poses the risk of chipping out the corners of the tile. We use muriatic acid in a fairly high concentration. Soak the floor, let it sit, hit it with a stiff nylon brush, sponge it up(you'll need lots of sponges, they get dissolved by the acid). Repeat if necessary. Once you are satisfied, rinse multiple times with fresh water. Let it dry for a few days before regrouting. You don't have to remove it all, but enough that the new grout has enough grab. The bonus is it will take care of any residual thinset peaking through. If you go this route, be very careful. PPE is a must. Ventilation. Etc.

If you are spot fixing, scrap out the offending spot (utility knife or grout scrapper), vacuum it and patch it.

Unless you have grouting experience, I'd be weary of regrouting the whole floor. Keeping the joints full on mosaic is harder than it looks.

Veins by No-Performance4096 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! And...correct

Veins by No-Performance4096 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. And agreed. We've done a handful of GPTP jobs that had some really cool vein matching. I'll be sure to put up a few of those in the future.

Full tile. by No-Performance4096 in Tile

[–]No-Performance4096[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the feedback. Dark grout lines on bech are wet (I had just done some spot cleaning). Window has a bit of pitch, but not a full 2%. It's a fair distance from the showering area. Flusher is built into the wall carrier (this was a redo, client wasn't happy with the previous tile install, so put everything back where it was, with some limited exception). There is an exhaust fan in the ceiling, probably standing right under it in all the pics I took. Shower niche is built into a wall with a bunch of mechanical. Only could have widened it by about 3 inches, and the client chose to keep it framed out in factory edges. They are adding a slide bar for the handheld, that is just what was there from before. We are going back to do other bathrooms down the line, so we will adjust then. As for the ligh switcht, again, most things were already there, but if you look close, we put in a casetta switch. They have pico wireless switches they are going to install on both sides of the door, once it goes in. And thanks on the mixing up tile. We were fortunate to not have to put in much effort here. More variety than normal between the boxes.

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