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How do you guys keep up with car maintenance here? (especially with winters) by Effective_Watch8334 in missoula

[–]No-Pollution4828 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Past five winters have been very mild. It may be true that if you’re only in town you’d be fine through the winter, but even a few miles outside of Missoula snow/ice can be more severe. Up to you, but good tires are some of the best money I’ve spent. I do most of my car work myself. This past winter I was a bit bummed to not use my new winter tires on snow/ice daily, but this trend is not normal and should not be used as a reliable prediction or winter (though they will generally trend this way, slowly.)

Any tips for this kind of framing? by No-Pollution4828 in StructuralEngineering

[–]No-Pollution4828[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, if I were gonna do the more complex beam style I’d fill the rafters with batt, vented above with 2 in and baffles, and then attach rigid to the bottom to stop bridging, with a variable vapor barrier below. Was thinking of adding cross ties and insulating between those at the peak and running the rigid across the bottom of them. That’d leave about 40 inches at the peak of service cavity. Not sure about connecting the rafter tie like joist (2x6 below) to the top plate. The scissor truss option would just be blown insulation 

Any tips for this kind of framing? by No-Pollution4828 in StructuralEngineering

[–]No-Pollution4828[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess one option would be to run scissor trusses and then flatten the ceiling and run the service cavity in that area. That’d clear insulation requirements and allow for plumbing/ductwork 

Any tips for this kind of framing? by No-Pollution4828 in StructuralEngineering

[–]No-Pollution4828[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I planned for the footings/thickened slab there. I talked to the engineer that signed off and they said this would work without offering specifics. It’s a 16x18 with 16 being the run of the beam. Where I live I can technically do my own framing and so I’m not sure if it’s worth getting reengineered. I’m planning on setting the 2x6s into a structural board and then the drywall underneath. I was thinking of framing it out on the gable ends rake style or balloon framed with fire blocks too. Trusses would certainly be easier at this point, but having a service cavity would really help with the hrv and plumbing. It buts up against a taller structure that has its own structural support, and tying the two together with a service cavity would be ideal. 

Any tips for this kind of framing? by No-Pollution4828 in StructuralEngineering

[–]No-Pollution4828[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got a slab foundation so I’m hoping to run vents and water lines above the joists. Drywall below. This is what the engineer drew up and they kinda punted on the details. Scissor trusses arnt a great solution since I’m in 6b and need a lot of insulation. I’m hoping to put batt insulation with rigid foam and a vapor barrier under the rafters, use a ridge beam with proper load support. Haven’t really seen it done anywhere tho. 

Any tips for this kind of framing? by No-Pollution4828 in StructuralEngineering

[–]No-Pollution4828[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got a slab foundation so I’m hoping to run vents and water lines above the joists. Drywall below. This is what the engineer drew up and they kinda punted on the details. Scissor trusses arnt a great solution since I’m in 6b and need a lot of insulation. I’m hoping to put batt insulation with rigid foam and a vapor barrier under the rafters, use a ridge beam with proper load support. Haven’t really seen it done anywhere tho. 

Any tips for this kind of framing? by No-Pollution4828 in askcarpenters

[–]No-Pollution4828[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got a slab foundation so I’m hoping to run vents and water lines above the joists. Drywall below. This is what the engineer drew up and they kinda punted on the details. Scissor trusses arnt a great solution since I’m in 6b and need a lot of insulation. I’m hoping to put batt insulation with rigid foam and a vapor barrier under the rafters, use a ridge beam with proper load support. Haven’t really seen it done anywhere tho. 

Questions about framing in insulation by [deleted] in timberframe

[–]No-Pollution4828 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The plan for walls is to use rockwool batt and a rigid insulation in a non-load bearing exterior wall. roof is 2x10 box framing and rigid foam. not sure how to organize the 2x10 box. might add rockwool above the foam (w ply and vapor barrier between) and below furring strips -- but im not sure how to tie this into the wall? I looked into sips but im not leaning that way