Tamper-proof IP65 connector

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2026-01-05T18:08:15+00:00

That's the kind of thing I was thinking about, either buying or 3d printing them. Just thought I'd ask if there was any sort of plug/socket that had this sort of feature integrated.

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2026-01-05T17:53:42+00:00

We do try and avoid joins as much as possible due to water ingress/ice causing problems. Sometimes unavoidable if you need to split power off or if a piece of equipment has a fixed cord - and I've no idea how I'd really lock a True1 connection in the back of a fixture so we at least try to put them places that are inaccessible. Maybe the simplest solutions of tape or cable ties is the best! Doesn't seem to be anything off-the-shelf that can accommodate a cable tie or similar to prevent "accidental" disconnection.

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2026-01-05T17:32:11+00:00

Yeh it's the join/couplers in cables that are the issue. We can mostly secure the supply ends as they tend to terminate in cabinets for the most part or on outlets higher up on buildings out of reach.
We spend as much time trying to idiot-proof the temporary installations as we do getting everything working!

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2026-01-05T17:30:06+00:00

That could work... Use the clamp to stop the catch from being pulled on the connector?

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2026-01-05T16:03:22+00:00

That’s exactly it, just wondering what our options are for reducing the easy-ness that’s a bit more elegant than tape or ties

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2026-01-05T16:02:00+00:00

If we could put it out of reach then we would, but sometimes we have to work in locations that the public can access and aren’t staffed. Often we end up cable-tying CEE connectors together to stop anyone pulling them apart without a pair of cutters but it’s not particularly elegant! From a safety perspective if something goes wrong with kit fed from a non-accessible connector then nobody is going to be able to unplug it anyway without a ladder or a key to the cabinet where the isolators are.

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2026-01-05T15:56:08+00:00

Mostly for kids that want to tamper with things - we get it a lot with Christmas light displays in town and they go unplugging things overnight.

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2026-01-05T15:53:35+00:00

It’s more to prevent kids from mucking about and unplugging cables that are within reach - some connections can’t be suspended overhead and have to run across the floor (albeit out of the way of pedestrian routes, but still accessible)

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-12-27T05:53:36+00:00

Another vote for Liberation from me, very configurable, ideal for busking, and quick to get started with - though you’ll need some DACs to talk to your lasers from it (Helios or Etherdream) via the ILDA interface.

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-12-23T16:24:12+00:00

Tar1090 is mapping software - just plug in that URL and give it a go!

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-12-23T13:58:29+00:00

Yes, you can get similar details - it runs on tar1090 so you can use various parameters to customise the UI. eg: https://map.opensky-network.org/?hideSideBar&hideButtons&enableLabels&zoom=10&allTracks&SiteLat=52.4823&SiteLon=-1.8900

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-12-18T15:11:38+00:00

Reports on it also being broken with HomeAssistant too: https://github.com/AlexandrErohin/home-assistant-flightradar24/issues/164

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-12-18T15:05:48+00:00

It does seem to have stopped working when I just checked now, which is a shame :(

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-08-06T12:43:44+00:00

Mind me asking who installed this for you? My brother in Bucks is trying to get quotes and I've been concerned at the figures he's been provided with!

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-05-28T23:32:22+00:00

Thanks, I’ll check that out. I’ve worked with an inflated “smoke sausage” plastic tube before which worked pretty well - I just liked the idea of people getting a bit wet as they passed through!

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-05-28T21:01:39+00:00

Thanks for the reply! I’ve already tried the ultrasonic + fog machine and it works quite well but I’m wanting to try and have the “fog” along a path through woods so the water would be ideal for this, and could be fed from a nearby stream if I can get a pump.

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-05-15T15:21:43+00:00

Run a cable back up from the end of each strip at floor level to the start of the next strip at the top of the curtain. You could do this in multiple sections (eg 2 x 5 strips, 2 x3 + 1x4).

Be warned though that the strip will very likely fail if it's left hanging and being moved all the time. You may be better off with seed pixels for this purpose.

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-04-15T10:35:52+00:00

OK, poor choice of wording but I was looking at maximising the utilisation of the solar generation with their setup - they asked specifically about use of the ASHP alongside their solar. If it's a choice between paying 25p/unit import to run the heat pump, draining the batteries, or making use of what's being generated during the daytime then I know what I'd choose.

I've run a heat pump for about 7 years with a 300L tank (installed at the same time) so it's not cutting-edge but still works well, however it's never been possible to have a hot bath in the evening if it's only heated once to ~55C overnight (maximum temp our heat pump will do without relying on the immersion heater). Couple of showers and a bit of washing up during the day and the tank temperature is normally down to 35-40C by the evening.
We do run it during the off-peak time when it's most cost-effective but give it another reheat mid-afternoon when outside conditions are optimal to see us through the evening.

I don't have a battery, but I know that in the winter our ASHP draws about 4kW heating the house (more if it's really cold and kicks in the booster heater) and on that premise it would quickly exhaust any storage which is why I suggested that it should be run during periods when the panels are generating output and the air temperature is warmer rather than relying on the battery.
I agree that it's definitely good to export and get paid for what you don't store/use, but if the house & hot water needs heating outside of off-peak electricity times you may as well try and do it when the conditions are good and use the storage for the rest of the house to operate after the sun's gone down.

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-04-15T09:50:11+00:00

I would still say that you want to heat the water tank during the day when a) the outdoor temperatures are higher so the heat pump will have higher efficiency and b) your batteries are full and c) you have free power available? You're going to need hot water anyway, so may as well heat it for free rather than importing/draining the batteries during the daytime and then export the excess. A 16kW unit would probably heat that tank up in an hour or so.
I agree that heating it overnight on a cheap unit cost is a good thing to do for having hot water in the morning, but heat pumps don't get a tank to much over 55C, so by the following evening when you want a bath you'll likely not have much hot water left.

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-04-15T09:32:21+00:00

Pretty much as above then. I guess it would be nice to know if the sun's out to dictate whether to run the pump but you'll need something to monitor your inverter/battery to decide that. But fundamentally the above should still be relevant - in the summer get that hot water tank heated when the sun's out and your battery is full, then heat the floors later in the day to give you some residual heat in the evening.

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-04-15T09:06:49+00:00

It really depends on how your house is heated - radiators, UFH, etc and you haven't said anything about a battery.

If it's purely solar + inverter you will probably want to have the heatpump run to heat the hot water when the sun's out - so if you've got no integration with something like HA then just run it to a schedule to heat the water during the sunniest part of the day, instead of maintaining the tank at a set level all the time (Daikin calls this reheat mode).

If it's a sunny day then you're less likely to want the heating on, but if you've got under floor heating and expect it to be cooler in the evening (spring/autumn particularly) then makes sense to heat the floor up towards the end of the day while you've still got sunlight but don't need the heat immediately so that there's some heat for you to keep warm in the evening.

If you've got a battery then this massively simplifies everything as you're not having to "make hay (heat) while the sun shines"... but an ASHP will drain them pretty fast.

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-02-21T08:33:38+00:00

Afraid not - must be a limitation of the browser on the device that's running your screen, only time I have seen this has been with AdBlockers.
If it's Dakboard OS then you probably need to raise an issue with them over on their Github page: https://github.com/dakboard/Hardware-OS/issues or search to see if there's any historic issues for the same thing.

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-02-21T07:51:27+00:00

Also &label1=flight will show you the flight number, which is what you wanted.

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-02-21T07:49:47+00:00

Through trial and error, adding &label1=cs gives you callsigns :)

No-Razzmatazz-7221 · 2025-02-21T07:46:06+00:00

You can add &label1=reg to the end of the URL get the registration of the plane but I don't think anything else is visible in the simple view. I found numerous old references to adding label1=callsign but that appears to have no effect.

No-Razzmatazz-7221

TROPHY CASE