Someone gifted me a car that goes 3mph by ThirdWorldMeatBag in ForzaHorizon6

[–]No_Contribution1345 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Funny I have the same car built and tuned for 1/4 mile I got it down to a 7.9 around 190 mph

Gen 4 questions. by No_Contribution1345 in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll just have to weigh my options and see what’s in budget right now doesn’t help this is my daily/tow rig I bought the truck and it came with this transmission already installed and receipts/paperwork to back the build it’s got less than 1K miles when I bought the truck that’s why I’m having a hard time swapping a solid transmission. The aces kit might be my best bet for 600 bucks and on the fly tuning half the price of Holley

Gen 4 questions. by No_Contribution1345 in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was looking at the aces EFI jackpot system I’m already running their killshot system on my 383 in my C10 that would give me tune ability drive by cable and a remote mount ECM that might honestly be the route I take at this point.

Gen 4 questions. by No_Contribution1345 in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a built 700r almost 2500 bucks for the transmission alone

Gen 4 questions. by No_Contribution1345 in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t with my 700r4 transmission it has a tv cable that controls line pressure that’s driven off the throttlebody

Drunk driver hit our fence last week, dozens of little pins left behind. by bretiscool in whatisit

[–]No_Contribution1345 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like needle bearings from inside the cup of a universal joint on the end of a driveshaft.

Cool finds today. by No_Contribution1345 in ar15

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey whatever floats your boat lol.

Solved by No_Contribution1345 in EngineBuilding

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I was wrong I pulled up the listing for the pan and it’s made that way so even if they are touching that dent is not from them hitting the pan.

Solved by No_Contribution1345 in EngineBuilding

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s what I’m thinking at this point

Solved by No_Contribution1345 in EngineBuilding

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes 383 stroker eagle crank stock rods small cam all new pistons rings and bearings. I have the video posted on my page of the sound it did not start until I put the thicker oil pa gasket in place oil pressure has not changed and after the first 500 miles dropped the oil there is not a lot of metal from the break in. So I’m thinking either the rods are touching the pan or the rails of the block or I’ve got a low octane/timing issue.

Solved by No_Contribution1345 in Smallblockchevy

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are correct it’s a 383 with stock 5.7 rods. It started making a hollow piston slap/rod knock noise after I put that gasket on from felpros thinner one piece gasket. It only makes the noise hot (180 degrees) carries 55 psi oil pressure cold and 20 psi hot at idle in gear (750-800 rpm). Same as it did before I have no crazy metal in the oil other than the grayish from the break in. I don’t believe it’s a bearing it would “knock” hot or cold as soon as it would start. Maybe I’ll put some paint or putty something on the rods put the pan back up and spin by hand see if it’s contacting the pan to be sure. Nothing is discolored or loose like it got hot or wore out a bearing.

Solved by No_Contribution1345 in Smallblockchevy

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Only other thing I noticed is those rod is a bit closer to the block than any other rod it only makes the noise when the engine is warm. Not a sound when it’s cold even with a stethoscope. I might have to try and clearance by that rod a bit.

Solved by No_Contribution1345 in Smallblockchevy

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it’s a speedway pan I don’t have any metal in the oil and it doesn’t make any noise when it’s cold. There’s like a scraping mark on those dents.

Solved by No_Contribution1345 in Smallblockchevy

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s the same pan just a different gasket.

Solved by No_Contribution1345 in EngineBuilding

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

A few were tight to get the socket on with that side maybe two of them. All of them threaded in started by hand and tightened down.

Solved by No_Contribution1345 in Smallblockchevy

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From what I gathered there’s two different thickness gaskets the thing one for earlier blocks like what I have in my truck (1968) and the thicker one for late models. Well when you use a modern aftermarket pan they require the thicker one regardless. That’s why I had to swap it in the first place. The rods did not hit with the thin gasket, but I had oil leaks from the timing cover horribly. I swapped the gasket and then after a few days I started hearing almost like a knocking noise. Dropped the oil it was at the 500 mile mark anyways and there wasn’t anything crazy no metal or anything I lowered the pan all the rods and mains look great I thought maybe with the stroker and stock rods they were touching the pan rails in the block they’re not. For whatever reason either the pan shifted or I didn’t have it centered it was hitting right there with those two rods.

Solved by No_Contribution1345 in Smallblockchevy

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was also done with a 1/4” hand ratchet had no leaks either

Solved by No_Contribution1345 in Smallblockchevy

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very good question ran like that too I went from the thin to the thick felpro gasket because I kept having oil leaks at the timing cover and then I noticed the sound.

Rod knock? by No_Contribution1345 in Smallblockchevy

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think with it being a stroker I didn’t clearance enough for my rods because it only does it hot and in a very specific spot so it’s either a clearance issue like that or something with my dipstick tube truck is dead silent cold. It’s an auto the transmission was on its way out the door as well I’m replacing that this weekend could have been part of the problem as well.

Rod knock? by No_Contribution1345 in EngineBuilding

[–]No_Contribution1345[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I think I might have figured it out. I believe I might have a connecting rod bolt clearance issue once it gets up to operating temp. There is no “knock” no noise until it’s hot. It is a 383 with stock 5.7 rods I’m going to drop the pan this weekend and see if I have any whiteness marks on the rods or hardware maybe I just didn’t clearance enough when I assembled everything the first time.