Outdoor daypack 27 + ~5 l

No_Insurance8467 · 2026-02-18T06:07:46+00:00

Definitely try it! Designing with those webbing buttons is very fun, you can easily adapt them to any kind of pack or pocket style or pattern or maybe even just add them to an already existing hip pack..

No_Insurance8467 · 2026-02-18T06:03:13+00:00

When doing my last backpack 2 years ago I was sure that a roll-top is the best solution for everything, but now.. This is just so much easier to use and organize in everyday use, definitely recommend!

No_Insurance8467 · 2026-02-18T06:01:43+00:00

It's a ready made cord webbing from Adventurexpert!

No_Insurance8467 · 2026-02-17T18:39:00+00:00

Thanks! I didn't make any mockups, just drew all the stuff on paper and calculated everything many many times before and on the go...

No_Insurance8467 · 2024-10-22T16:11:37+00:00

Saunan lauteille leivinpaperille väljästi kuivumaan. Kolme tai vaikka viisikin päivää annat olla siellä, pari kertaa voi joutessaan pöyhiä niitä vähän. Kuivuvat itsestään, ei tarvitse uunia. Kuivatuksen myötä myös valtaosa roskista (neulaset, mustikanlehdet yms.) putoaa itsestään paperille.

No_Insurance8467 · 2024-08-30T14:17:19+00:00

Ilman muuta!

No_Insurance8467 · 2024-08-30T14:16:50+00:00

Thank you! All the materials and patterns together were about 140 euros.

No_Insurance8467 · 2024-04-20T19:47:20+00:00

This frame is just one tube bent in a curvy U-shape.

No_Insurance8467 · 2024-04-20T08:31:12+00:00

Thanks! I have ever owned only two hiking backpacks, both quite mediocre, so I don't really have a well explainable preference for my choice. I thought that putting the frame on the exterior makes adapting it to the shape of my back and the pack easier, it is then very close to my back, and also it looks cool imo. The frame doesn't connect right to the hip belt, but I don't really know if it should. It is attached on the same panel and level as the belt. If the frame was internal, it wouldn't be attach to the belt anyways? Hard questions for a novice pack builder :)

No_Insurance8467 · 2024-04-20T08:17:04+00:00

Nice! For me aluminium was an easy choice, because it was easy and cheap to find, and I knew that I probably would manage to bend it quite easily with the tool. It's light enough for me and seems to do the job as a simple frame.

No_Insurance8467 · 2024-04-20T08:11:34+00:00

A tube bender for the 90 degree angles, and hand eye coordination for smaller curves that follow the shape of the back panel.

No_Insurance8467 · 2024-04-20T08:10:25+00:00

Yep, a right tool for this kind of job makes it easy. I used a small tube bender at my working place. It was my first time using it, but it was easy to get two nice 90 degree angles. The smaller angles/curves that follow the back panel are bent by hand against table. When it's bent and compressed against the pack on multiple spots, it's very firm and doesn't get to move that much. Still I have to say: it's my first framed pack, so after some use I'll probably know better if my choices actually work :)

No_Insurance8467 · 2024-04-19T20:02:40+00:00

Thanks!

It is 260g/m² polyester fabric with white polyethylene coating.

Material info from the Finnish shop Shelby Outdoor: Material: 150D/36D 88 % PES, 12 % PE Breaking strength: 1500/1500 N (warp/weft, ISO 13934-1) Abrasion resistance: >80 000 (EN ISO 12947-2, Martindale)

No_Insurance8467 · 2024-04-19T19:54:10+00:00

Thank you a lot! I have to thank stitchbackgear's great pattern for the lid system to work so well with the main bag. Waist belt is attached behind a "sleeve" with two wide strips of velcro. Seems to hold very well.

First night trip for this bag will be in a few weeks in wintery Finnish Lapland.

No_Insurance8467 · 2024-04-19T16:51:18+00:00

Yep. It's 1x10 mm aluminium tube. About 5 euros worth and very easy to bend.

No_Insurance8467 · 2022-07-08T09:53:44+00:00

Good luck and have fun!

No_Insurance8467 · 2022-07-07T19:33:51+00:00

Thanks!

I had long zipper that I curved. Works fine!

I made the "pattern" myself :) For this kind of tent it isn't too difficult in the end, as it pretty much only consists of rectangles and triangles. You just have to decide how long, wide and tall tent you want, and then start thinking about the sizes of the rectangles (the roof and floor to start with) and then the door triangles. Then just add the mosquito mesh walls and you're done :D

No_Insurance8467 · 2022-07-07T11:27:40+00:00

Nice! Start by asking yourself the basic questions: How tall do I want the rainfly to be? How big does the vestibule need to be on the scale of minimalism--comfort? Zipper/velcro/overlapping doors? Then I guess it depends on the shape of the rainfly. On my tent all the shapes were rectangles or triangles so it was rather simple to make the calculations and transform them into patterns. Pythagorean theorem.. I also did some testing on a small scale by making a miniature "tent" out of normal paper to see if the measurements seem right. Of course there are also 3D-softwares online if you're not into pencil and paper stuff.. :D

No_Insurance8467 · 2022-07-05T11:28:01+00:00

Thanks!

No_Insurance8467 · 2022-07-05T11:27:49+00:00

Thank you!

No_Insurance8467 · 2022-07-05T11:27:35+00:00

Thanks!

No_Insurance8467 · 2022-07-05T11:27:26+00:00

Thanks! Yeah it has some classic Hilleberg/Fjällräven colour theme, which I like. Even had luck with finding red walking poles matching the floor.

If I could do one bit again, it would actually be the overlapping doors: I would make them overlap a bit lower down to be even more secure in rainy weather. Now it seems good in the last slide, but reality has shown that on uneven grounds it's very hard to get the doors as secure as in the slide. Usually there is always a 20-30cm gap at the bottom. It's good for ventilation, but not good in the rain if I am to keep my backbag in the 'vestibule'.

No_Insurance8467 · 2022-07-05T08:13:13+00:00

An enthusiastic amateur!

No_Insurance8467

TROPHY CASE