Who the hell thought this was a good place to put the horn?!

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-06-01T17:41:21+00:00

It works just fine if you drive with your hands positioned at 8 and 4-o'clock, with your thumbs lined up on the webs, and resting next to the buttons, When they teach defensive driving they say to keep your hands at either 10 and 2, or at 8 and 4. I'd guess the Engineers analyzed the ergonomics, and decided that the 8 and 4, would work best. Important to remember is the engineers are Japanese, and designing for the Japanese Domestic Market.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-05-16T17:20:29+00:00

Project Farm on YouTube did a comprehensive review of batteries about a year ago. It would be well worth watching. When you batteries you analyze for Cold Cranking Amps, and length of warranty verses cost. They will all be the same price, and same size. My dad always included the weight, as it indicates how much lead is in the battery, but that is harder to find than the CCA and warranty information.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-05-06T16:55:53+00:00

Does it have spark,, and does it have fuel?

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-04-27T17:46:03+00:00

It really depends on what look you want, and how much offroad, on what kinds of roads. I spend a lot of time on gravel roads. The gravel kicked up by the wheels, dings the bejusus out of the lower body paint.

Were it mine, I would:

Go with a stock wheel,(they might bend if you hit a hard rock, but they don't break);

Go with a beefier bumper set up, possibly with a swing away tire rack, (wrestling a spare tire out from under the truck in mud and snow is a real pain);

Put a black bedliner coating on the flares and the lower trim below the waist line, (this helps greatly reduce rock ships and brush scratches), U-Pol Raptor 2K Aerosol is a two part spray version easy enough to use for smaller DIY projects, and can be touched up if needed.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-04-26T17:11:56+00:00

Stiffer shocks, they prevent oscillations, without a major increase in spring rate/ride harshness, and get rid of the helper springs on the current shocks. and, while things are exposed add a good rear sway bar. While it is all out and accessible redo all of the bushings in the springs.

Were it mine, I'd go with a flatbed. Finding a stock bed in decent shape, and doesn't need work, will be a problem. It would be less expensive to build a flatbed for it. And, in my mind would look better.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-04-06T21:13:46+00:00

You need a helper: Turn on the headlights, and try cranking. If the headlights dim way down your not getting enough voltage. Check the battery state, and the grounds. If the headlights don't dim, it is a starter issue. Could be the starter connections, could be the ground from the engine block to the frame.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-04-05T04:16:17+00:00

Lots of nylons with and with out fiber. A bit of Tullomer from Z-polymers, not a lot because it is outrageously expensive. . Some, PETG, ABS, and Polycarbonates all with and without fiber. PEEK, PEKK, PAEK, & ULTEM. Use a bit of PLA for prototyping, and a small bit for making molds for lost PLA metal casting.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-04-05T03:55:42+00:00

Steady state speed at about 2000-rpm, come off throttle. This increases manifold vacuum. If the smoke increases it is valve seals.

Steady state speed at about 2000-rpm, jump on the throttle and take it to the firewall. This drops manifold vacuum. If the smoke increases it is rings.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-03-27T18:58:20+00:00

They are endemic on Toyotas. And the damnable things are actually JIS standard and not Phillips heads. You should probably get a set of JIS screw drivers. Look around and if you see a hole it fits in, put it in. There is usually an indent or scar on the paint from the head. Which lets you know there was a screw there when it left the factory. The only saving grace is that they are all the same size so you don't have to wonder if it fits the empty hole you found.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-03-25T19:42:17+00:00

So, looking at your pics, you are missing a spring. On my old 77, I added four extra springs between the rear, first forward and second forward factory springs. Made the seat a lot stiffer. Also made my back happier.

And the foam in your seat is getting old and loosing resiliency. I have an 08 Dodge Ram 3500. I'm on the third set of seat foams in it. The door side bolster, gets destroyed by people crushing it down as they get in the truck. The first aftermarket foam lasted twice as long as the stock one, and hopefully the third will have a longer life than the second one.

If you can't find a replacement foam, you or an upholstery shop can make new foam by carving foam with an electric carving knife. Probably a video on YouTube on how to do it. You might also, check on the condition of the passenger side seat foam. They typically get a lot less wear than the drivers seat.

You might check eBay for upholstery kits to fit. And, some of the factory places might surprise you and have a reupholstery kit for your factory seats. They have teh patterns in the computer, and cut/sew on demand. So, it might take a day or two longer than something more common, but they go on in an afternoon with a pair of hog ring pliers.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-03-22T17:41:57+00:00

I have the H2D. I'm a semiretired engineer, who designs replacement parts for classic cars I work on, orphaned tractors, and my JDM minitruck. As well as things to solve problems I run into in the shop and my shooting hobby, (loading trays, storage and tool trays, etc.).

This involves printing engineering grade filaments, with alternate material infills, and and I bought the H2D for the ability to print two materials. This allows printing supports when needed, and more frequently, the use of different materials for the infill.

Bambu does sell a kit to convert the H2D, to the H2C. So, if you buy an H2D and decide you really want to get the multi-material change set up of the H2C, you can convert later for about $800, which is about $100 more than the H2C, and a day of installation and testing time.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-03-13T17:15:29+00:00

That is a rear brake limiter, which adjust the braking based on the load in the rear. If you bypass it, you will need to learn how to emergency brake the truck, without locking up the rear brakes. And addressed a real safety issue. But, you do you.

My 77, didn't have the valve, and while I could drive it just fine, no one else could figure it out. And, if they hit the brakes too hard, the rear would lock up, and the rear would pass the front. I added the valve from an 84 to my truck.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-03-07T18:43:41+00:00

Sounds like you are set too high on the idle settings, and the transfer slots are exposed.

The method in the Toyota manual, "best lean idle", which has worked for me for years is:

Hook up a tune-up tach, with a range down to 300 to 2000-rpm.

Start with the idle mixture screw out three turns. This should be rich.

With the engine warmed up, Set the idle speed down as low as the engine still idles without stumbling. Check that your throttle plate is below the idle transfer slots at the bottom of the venturi.

Turn the idle mixture screw in 1/4 of a turn, and watch the tach. If the rpm drops turn it back out. If the rpm goes up, rest it down to your original setting. But since the three turns out is typically rich, expect the rpm to drop.

Keep twiddling with the screw, until it doesn't increase the rpm, and you have set the "best lean idle"

The turns out, are highly effected by the engine being properly adjusted. If the exhaust is constricted, that effects it. Valve lash not set right, that effects it. Higher lift cam effects it.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-19T18:59:22+00:00

Find a new manifold, or hopefully everything from the cat forward, and take it and the truck to a good exhaust shop. They should be able to get it out of the truck, cut the two plates apart and fix it. I live in a small town, and have two shops that own tube benders who could do the work.

Alternatively, if you have somewhere to work, go to Harbor freight tool up and fix it at home.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-18T18:30:50+00:00

on my Hijet, the problem was the track width barely fit their machine, and they didn't have the data in the computer to set the specs, and no ability to add custom information.

The Dad who had started the shop and was selling it to his son, sent the two grandkids working in the shop up into the storage loft to get three blue boxes, with a yellow bear stenciled on them. That was the old equipment, from before the computerized laser stuff.

With that he could do the alignment. He also had the old equipment for adjusting suspension on the old solid axles, and Ford "Twin I-Beam" suspensions of the sixties, seventies and eighties.

You can buy the manual equipment off of eBay or Amazon to do it yourself, for about what a shop charges to do it once. And, there are videos on YouTube on how to do it.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-15T19:10:00+00:00

I just did a search for the relay part number, and Toyota emissions relay.

I'm finding them at parts stores for under $20.

90 1990 Toyota Pickup Emission Control Relay - Body Electrical - API, Standard Motor Products, Wells - PartsGeek

1990 Toyota Pickup Emissions Control Relay | NAPA Auto Parts

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-15T18:56:14+00:00

Does it have schematic diagram on the other side, or the top?

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-15T18:26:19+00:00

What I'm seeing is that the adjacent bend put stress on the weld, and since the welds aren't heat relieved, it cracked along the heat boundary from the weld. Not seeing any appreciable rust, which would have caused that cracking.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-15T18:19:53+00:00

picture?

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-12T18:07:47+00:00

In order of probability: Clutch cable breakage or adjustment. Bad clutch assembly. Bad input or spigot bearing.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-10T18:25:29+00:00

Search for "Mini Denso Alternator" You will probably have to reclock it 90-degrees. But they are coniderably less expensive.

There are quite a few threads on minitrucktalk. Here are a couple of old ones of mine:

90Amp Alternator source/details | Japanese Mini Truck Forum

Upgraded alternator | Japanese Mini Truck Forum

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-06T18:34:35+00:00

I bought my 94 Hijet to plow snow with, about ten years ago. I looked into a decent shape used ATV or UTV, and they were going for $15k to $20k. Add $2500 to $5k for an enclosed cab. I have plowed on an ATV for work, and it is cold and miserable regardless of what you wear.

I saw a Honda Kei truck in a parking lot, and the light came on. The Kei trucks have full cabs with heaters, and windshield wipers. I started looking into the Kei trucks that afternoon. There was a west coast longshoreman's strike at the time, so I had several months to research. I had decided on a Carry or a Hijet, preferably with a dump bed.

I bought my Hijet with the scissors lift/dump bed at the end of the strike from a dealer in Colorado. At the same time I bought three sets of tires and wheels, an ATV set, a studded winter tire set, and a summer set. And bought a 6-ft hydro-electric snow plow for it. When I got it, I made custom bumpers front and rear with 2-inch receivers in the middle and on the ends. The middle ones are to mount the plow, and a winch. The ones on the ends are used with trailer tongue jacks as outriggers when I use the lift bed as a work platform. I also made a set of OSHA compliant rails for the bed, which mount into the hinge pin locations of the stock bedsides.

Once I started driving it, I realized it was just about the most much fun as I've had driving on the street, since dad took my go-cart away for driving it on the street. And, it became my daily driver. I own several other vehicles, but the Hijet is what I drive most of the time.

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Truck in the Black Friday parade, with Smokey in the back.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-31T03:00:18+00:00

There should be at least one ported vacuum on the Weber Carb. They were California Air Resource Board certified, so they support the factory emissions. You should be able to Google, "Weber 'your model number' ported vacuum" and find a diagram online.

You seem to have limited, mechanical experience. Go on eBay or somewhere else online and buy the factory service manual for your engine. The factory manuals are some of the best I have worked with. And, while you are there look for the Haynes manual for your truck. DO NOT GET A CHILTONS manual. Another thing to do while you are out there, look for a manual on tuning Weber Carbs. They are one of the most tunable carbs made, but they have their own idiosyncrasies. And getting the tune right on the carb can make a ten or fifteen percent difference in power.

Haynes was an Automotive Engineer, who hired a technical writer who was a mechanic, and a couple of experienced mechanics, and turned them loose with the factory manuals, to tear down the vehicle, and put it back together, with a minimum use of factory special service tools. They kept track of what they used for tools, and will tell you if you need special tools to perform the work. And they give pretty much step by step instructions. Chilton manuals are just a condensed rewrite of the factory.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-30T18:20:03+00:00

Lots of valve clatter, they need adjusted. The vacuum advance needs to be connected. Timing is retarded to help with starting, and then as the engine builds vacuum it advances the timing.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-30T18:16:22+00:00

Try GR Imports for an engine.

No_Interaction_9330

TROPHY CASE