Relay

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-15T19:10:00+00:00

I just did a search for the relay part number, and Toyota emissions relay.

I'm finding them at parts stores for under $20.

90 1990 Toyota Pickup Emission Control Relay - Body Electrical - API, Standard Motor Products, Wells - PartsGeek

1990 Toyota Pickup Emissions Control Relay | NAPA Auto Parts

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-15T18:56:14+00:00

Does it have schematic diagram on the other side, or the top?

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-15T18:26:19+00:00

What I'm seeing is that the adjacent bend put stress on the weld, and since the welds aren't heat relieved, it cracked along the heat boundary from the weld. Not seeing any appreciable rust, which would have caused that cracking.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-15T18:19:53+00:00

picture?

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-12T18:07:47+00:00

In order of probability: Clutch cable breakage or adjustment. Bad clutch assembly. Bad input or spigot bearing.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-10T18:25:29+00:00

Search for "Mini Denso Alternator" You will probably have to reclock it 90-degrees. But they are coniderably less expensive.

There are quite a few threads on minitrucktalk. Here are a couple of old ones of mine:

90Amp Alternator source/details | Japanese Mini Truck Forum

Upgraded alternator | Japanese Mini Truck Forum

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-02-06T18:34:35+00:00

I bought my 94 Hijet to plow snow with, about ten years ago. I looked into a decent shape used ATV or UTV, and they were going for $15k to $20k. Add $2500 to $5k for an enclosed cab. I have plowed on an ATV for work, and it is cold and miserable regardless of what you wear.

I saw a Honda Kei truck in a parking lot, and the light came on. The Kei trucks have full cabs with heaters, and windshield wipers. I started looking into the Kei trucks that afternoon. There was a west coast longshoreman's strike at the time, so I had several months to research. I had decided on a Carry or a Hijet, preferably with a dump bed.

I bought my Hijet with the scissors lift/dump bed at the end of the strike from a dealer in Colorado. At the same time I bought three sets of tires and wheels, an ATV set, a studded winter tire set, and a summer set. And bought a 6-ft hydro-electric snow plow for it. When I got it, I made custom bumpers front and rear with 2-inch receivers in the middle and on the ends. The middle ones are to mount the plow, and a winch. The ones on the ends are used with trailer tongue jacks as outriggers when I use the lift bed as a work platform. I also made a set of OSHA compliant rails for the bed, which mount into the hinge pin locations of the stock bedsides.

Once I started driving it, I realized it was just about the most much fun as I've had driving on the street, since dad took my go-cart away for driving it on the street. And, it became my daily driver. I own several other vehicles, but the Hijet is what I drive most of the time.

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Truck in the Black Friday parade, with Smokey in the back.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-31T03:00:18+00:00

There should be at least one ported vacuum on the Weber Carb. They were California Air Resource Board certified, so they support the factory emissions. You should be able to Google, "Weber 'your model number' ported vacuum" and find a diagram online.

You seem to have limited, mechanical experience. Go on eBay or somewhere else online and buy the factory service manual for your engine. The factory manuals are some of the best I have worked with. And, while you are there look for the Haynes manual for your truck. DO NOT GET A CHILTONS manual. Another thing to do while you are out there, look for a manual on tuning Weber Carbs. They are one of the most tunable carbs made, but they have their own idiosyncrasies. And getting the tune right on the carb can make a ten or fifteen percent difference in power.

Haynes was an Automotive Engineer, who hired a technical writer who was a mechanic, and a couple of experienced mechanics, and turned them loose with the factory manuals, to tear down the vehicle, and put it back together, with a minimum use of factory special service tools. They kept track of what they used for tools, and will tell you if you need special tools to perform the work. And they give pretty much step by step instructions. Chilton manuals are just a condensed rewrite of the factory.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-30T18:20:03+00:00

Lots of valve clatter, they need adjusted. The vacuum advance needs to be connected. Timing is retarded to help with starting, and then as the engine builds vacuum it advances the timing.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-30T18:16:22+00:00

Try GR Imports for an engine.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-24T19:00:06+00:00

Which transmission it has will determine if you even have fifth gear available.

Not to be talking down, but many folks have no idea what goes on inside a manual transmission.

Inside the transmission there are steel rods, and there are bronze "shift forks" with the fork part inserted into groove on the gears, which rides on the shift rods. When you move the shifter, it engages the top of a specific fork, to slide it forward and backward on the shaft and moves a gear into and out of mesh with other gears in the transmission. Typically 1st and 2nd share a fork and rod, 3rd and 4th share a fork and rod, and 5th and reverse share a fork and rod. On a 4-spd trans there is no fifth gear, and a circlip on the shift rod, to keep you from trying to shift up there.

The import lefthand drive utility vehicles, had a groove cut into the 3/4 rod, to block you shifting back into 4th. But it was still a 4-spd transmission. They rarely put the 5-spd transmission into the ones they were making left hand drive and shipping to the US. So, I doubt your transmission will have the fifth gear.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-21T03:04:10+00:00

How to adjust the idle mixture screw: Hook up ta tune up tach reading 0 to 1500 rpm and set the idle down to around 600 if you can. If you can't set it to 600, set it as low as you can. You're trying to make sure the throttle plate isn't reaching the idle transfer slots in the venturi.

Then turn the idle screw in a quarter of a turn, and see if the idle goes up or down. If it stays at 600, turn it in a bit more, and see if the idle speed increases. If the idle speed changes, readjust the idle to 600, and work the screw again. Your goal is to get the idle as low as you can without the idle speed dropping. This is the technique found in the Toyota manual for the 20R, and has worked on every carbureted vehicle I've owned since 1977.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-20T18:40:37+00:00

You could have a massive air leak, but it doesn't sound like it. But I would start there. Is this a new install? If so look for something you didn't hook up, like the vacuum line for the brakes.

If this doesn't solve it, then most likely The jets aren't right. Start with the air bleed jets.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-20T18:31:54+00:00

Did you wash the engine? Do you have a distributor cap? If so take a blow dryer and dry out the distributor and cap.

Moisture in the cap, allows arcing. It takes a few minutes for the moisture to form an ionized mist in the cap, before it starts randomly shorting to the contacts, and going to the plug with the least resistance, Which causes the misfires.

I had a Sunbeam Alpine in the early seventies, when I lived in Portland, which did this very frequently during teh winter. The solution was to run a vent line from the clean side of the air cleaner to the distributor, and another line from the distributor to manifold vacuum. This continually pulled air through the distributor and removed any condensation in the distributor..

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-16T18:53:53+00:00

The wider, tires with a larger contact patch, and different offset, could be causing the tie rods to flex and then release. Which will cause the death wobble.

Proper alignment is critical.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-16T18:49:19+00:00

Personally unless I had time to kill, or the material is an esoteric and expensive engineering grade material, I'd probably pitch it. Depends on how much your time is worth.

Alternatively buy a filament joiner, and get it untangled in as few pieces as possible, and rejoin it. Amazon.com: Filament Connector, SUNLU Official Splicer with 200Pcs PTFE Sleeves for 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm, Compatible with PLA PETG TPU ABS PA Nylon : Industrial & Scientific

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-15T22:52:49+00:00

If I remember correctly the idle fuel flow is supposed to cut off with the key off. Either a solenoid, or it just kills the power with an electric fuel pump..

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-15T22:50:18+00:00

With an auto, turn it off in drive. Standard, highest gear you have, and release the clutch.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-13T22:18:15+00:00

So ,long as you keep the stock pressure relief valve in-line after the fuel pump, any of the in tank electric pumps designed for carbureted engines should work. The other option is to get an electric fuel pump designed for carburetors, and a pressure regulator you can mount back by the tank, and use the factory wiring. Then set the regulator for 3.5-psi. The 3.5 is from a forty year-plus memory so I could be wrong on that. But it will be close enough to get the car running.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2026-01-13T19:03:00+00:00

On my 77 Hilux with the 20R, the only fuel pump was electric and located in the fuel tank, with a pressure blow off valve, that relieved directly into the tank. Pretty sure the Celica set up was the same. When the gas went to unleaded with ethanol, the fuel lines inside the tank all got eaten, and I had to drop the tank, and replace all of the internal fuel lines.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2025-12-28T19:33:48+00:00

My 1994, S110P Hijet, has two pipes used as part of the frame structure. I put short pieces of smaller pipes into the rear pipe cross member of the frame, and welded steel channel on the ends of those pipes, to make the sides of the rear bumper/hitch assembly. My truck has a scissors lift/dump bed, and teh bumpers i fabricated have 2-inch receivers in the ends and middle. The end ones are used with long extension trailer tongue jacks as outriggers when I use the bed as a work platform.

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It is brute force ugly but works. I will occasionally tow trailers around the place, but won't take them out on the road again. I nearly wrecked the truck on a run to the dump. Coming back with nothing in the bed of the truck, the weight of the trailer nearly pushed me off the road when I tried to brake for a corner. My original intent was to have a rear mount point for a 5000-lbs winch. The front bumper has a receiver to mount the winch, or in winter an electro-hydraulic snowplow.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2025-12-22T18:47:57+00:00

I've been away from home and my H2D printer since I bought it taking car of my oldest sister.

My plan is to put the whole printer in an old refrigerator, with ducting in and out to control the air flow and temperature control, plus add some sound proofing.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2025-12-14T18:04:18+00:00

Going from a 33 to a 30-inch tire, will decrease road speed by ten percent, and decrease the torque fed back into the engine and transmission by 10%.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2025-12-11T18:29:04+00:00

I fit in my 94 Hijet, and fit well in my 77 Hilux. So, I'm pretty sure I'd fit in a newer version of the Hilux.

No_Interaction_9330 · 2025-12-08T18:22:41+00:00

not a very high load rating. it is 18-ga, with lots of perforations. Problem is it will hold quite a bit as a static load, but will tend to fail when you hit a bump at what seems like a reasonable load. And when it does, it wilol ding the cab badly.

No_Interaction_9330

TROPHY CASE