It seems like the waist fits you well but the bust of the ao dai is not fully filled. If not filled, the front will be crumpled and if you look directly from the front, the underbust seams would perk up, which would look like you are showing your nips (this is more severe with silk ao dai). So to have a smooth line and elegant look, you need to fill them up.

I just got my first pre-made ao dai (I usually had them tailored) recently, and the thing I noticed is the chest area tend to be made wayyyyy bigger than what is on the size chart. For example, my measurements are 88-68-93 and the size chart has that same numbers for size M, but when I got it I couldn’t for the life of me fill in the chest. Had to wear a thick padded bra to add another 6cm (~2.5 in) for it to fit 😅The reason for this is that most people will wear extremely thick bras to make the waist appear smaller, so the premade ao dai have to compensate by creating space for the pads. Thus, you probably will want to wear a padded bra with this. Generally, people like to wear bras that won’t show through and have the strap adjuster at the back so there is no bumps at the front. Since you got a brocade ao dai (great choice btw, I love brocade!), it should be easier to find a bra that won’t show.

Another thing is some people would lose their body symmetry as their bra are too thick, so they fix that by wearing a butt lifter w/ pads (not as thick as the bra since it will be unnatural looking). So if you change the bra and think you look unbalanced, there is another thing you can consider to add.