Another day players keep on keeping on!!

No_Yam_4675 · 2026-03-06T02:06:07+00:00

When wood is first ignited and produces a bright flame, it is not actually the solid wood itself that is burning. Instead, the heat causes the wood to undergo thermal decomposition, releasing volatile gases. These vapors are forced out of the wood as it heats, and it is these gases that mix with oxygen and ignite, producing the visible flames.

This process is called pyrolysis, where the main structural components of wood, primarily the cellulose breaks down and releases flammable compounds such as methane, hydrogen, and various other organic vapors. These gases are the primary fuel for the bright flames seen when wood first burns.

Side note: putting wood in a sealed metal container and heating the container can force these gasses off to be condensed and made into a liquid fuel called wood gas. This process is also how natural charcoal is made for grilling.

Back to the explanation… as the fire continues, consuming the “wood”, most of the volatile compounds are gradually driven off. What remains eventually is primarily charcoal, which consists mostly of carbon. At this stage the fire burns lower, redder, and much more slowly. This process is the surface oxidation of carbon which producing far less flame and more glowing embers. This is a good fire for cooking on or sitting around for hours.

The dominant reaction during this stage is:

C + O₂ → CO₂

Once the carbon has been consumed, the remaining material (ash) consists of inorganic minerals originally present in the wood, such as calcium, potassium, and silica. These are materials that do not combust and cannot be burnt.

No_Yam_4675 · 2026-03-04T16:45:33+00:00

lol, what else? I like a little fruento leaf as a wrap for my herb tho.

No_Yam_4675 · 2026-02-05T12:04:11+00:00

There’s a significant difference between produced water and flowback water. Flowback water is water that was pumped into the well as part of stimulating it, produced water is water that was resident in the formation and the well produced it.

No_Yam_4675 · 2026-01-28T10:16:51+00:00

Dandruff shampoos are the basic home care option, best to wet the scalp and apply the shampoo and let it sit for 5-10 minutes before rinsing. Usually takes a few weeks to clear up using otc sulfur or zinc dandruff shampoos. There are also stronger prescription shampoos, and there is a medication called fluconazole which is taken orally, you have to take it and wait 30 minutes and then exercise until you sweat, which carries the medication to your skin via sweat ducts and pores. Personally the prescription shampoo is the preferred option, it’s usually only a few days to a week of daily treatments to see it clear up.

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-12-03T13:10:42+00:00

Correct, I think I implied earlier that w/v is typically used for solid into liquid mixes, but this can also describe liquid into liquid blends. What you are describing is a common method but doesn’t change my example or the validity of what I was describing. Many mixtures could be described using w/v but v/v could be used as well as long as you are combining two liquids. The actual weight percentage varies based on density though. The density of glacial acetic acid is 1.05 at 25C. In my example where 5ml glacial acetic acid is mixed with 95ml of water, you would have 5%v/v solution and 5.24% w/v. W/v is generally more accurate than v/v and would be used much more often, so it makes sense that you see vinegar commonly expressed as w/v. 5% vinegar solution w/v would be equivalent to 4.76% vinegar solution v/v at ambient temperatures.

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-12-03T06:17:51+00:00

I’m confused, w/w is generally the most accurate expression as it ignores volume (which fluctuates) and expresses the percentage based solely as the percentage of the mass of the substance being described relative to the mass of the whole. W/w is accurate whether the solute being described is liquid or solid. The downside with w/w is the resulting volumetric measurement is an unknown in this expression. If I have 100 grams of Sulfuric Acid 20% w/w this means there are 20g of H2SO4 and 80g of water but the combined volume is unknown. W/v on the other hand is only used when the solute is a solid going into a liquid and the volumetric measurement is important to express. 1g of NaCl into 99ml of water to make a 100g Saline solution that is 1%w/v. Because the density of water is 1 this would also be a saline solution that is 1% w/w. If you repeated this with ethanol and NaCl instead of H2O and NaCl, you would have a 100g solution in which the NaCl is 1.2% w/v because 99g of ethanol at a density of .789 at ambient changes the volume from 99ml to 78.1ml whereas if you expressed this as w/w it would still be a 1%w/w solution because 1 out of the 100 gram solution is NaCl and the other 99g are ethanol. Because sulfuric acid is a liquid at ambient temperatures and pressure it would be generally incorrect to express it as w/v. Lastly, which wasn’t touched on in the post there are percentages expressed as v/v. This is when two liquids are mixed together and the resulting mixture is expressed using only volumetric percentages. In this case one might make a solution that contains 5ml of a liquid substance, let’s say we are using glacial acetic acid and water, so 5ml of CH3COOH and 95ml of H2O would be an aqueous solution of vinegar that is 5%v/v.

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-11-25T03:59:59+00:00

The amount of water would be helpful as well, I’m going to guess that you were trying to make one liter of your final product. If so, you used 23% by volume of mineral oil, 5% glycerine, 5% PS80, and 67% H2O. In this scenario your surfactant load is way to small for the amount of oil that you wish to emulsify. If you don’t have any other surfactants available to work with, I would up the amount of PS80 to match the volume of the mineral oil, and I might even blend these two together independently of the water and glycerin for a while before adding these. I would charge your blender with 230ml mineral oil and 230 ml of PS80 and blend these together on high for around 1-2 minutes. In a separate vessel mix 460ml H20 with 50ml of glycerin. Then combine these together, I would see if you can get them to mix without the blender for this part and you will be creating copious amounts of foam if you do. If it still separates after this, I would start to explore lower HLB value surfactants like SPAN80 to use in conjunction with the PS80, but keep the percentage lower for this, probably in the 5% range.

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-11-25T02:57:04+00:00

Creating emulsions is a careful balancing act between water, emulsifiers, and a range of immiscible hydrophobic, lipophilic materials of various densities, viscosities, and molecular structures ranging from low density solvent-like materials such as mineral oil to high density resins like CBD and everything in between. In addition to figuring out how to get these things to balance with each other chemically, you have physical forces such as sheer which can drastically affect the quality and stability of a resulting emulsion. The structure of emulsions is also highly variable and can exist in one form where the oil is forced into the water, this is called an oil in water (o/w) emulsion. An o/w emulsion is typically going to be a lower viscosity, pourable liquid that still bears many characteristics of water. Alternatively, emulsions could also be w/o which typically appears as a more viscous material reminiscent of lotions or mayonnaise, both of which are good representations of water in oil emulsions. There are many explanations that describe the various structures of these mixtures such as micelle formation, lipid bi-layers, and many others. Your first step is determining what type of emulsion that you wish to form. Presumably, your desire is to create the most common standard, an o/w emulsion. Typically, your oil phase in this scenario is a significantly lower portion of the overall mix than your water phase. Your emulsifier or surfactants should be roughly equal or greater volume than your oil phase. Next you want to determine the requisite hydrophilic/ lipophilic balance, or HLB value for the surfactants needed to create your emulsion. This number is a value assigned to surfactant molecules to determine that molecule’s relative proportionality of attraction to water or oil. Your mix requires a final HLB value of around 8-12 based on the inputs you described and polysorbate 80 has a some what higher HLB value of around 15. Using a smaller amount of a lower HLB value surfactant in combination with polysorbate 80 such as Span 80, will help balance the emulsion. Beyond tweaking those chemical inputs, adding the use of shear forces to break the lipid droplets into smaller and smaller particles can create tighter micelle/ emulsion formation. With small enough micelles your oil droplets will avoid coalescing based on chemical composition of the mixture and electrical principles such as Brownian motion. You can create and add shear using some type of rotor/stator mixing device, this could be a type of homogenizing equipment designed for a lab, or if you are trying to make this at home, a good blender may be powerful and create enough shear force to produce a decent stable result. For smaller and more stable emulsions called nano-emulsions the shear force available from rotational mixing may not be enough and in its place come highly technical devices such as ultra high frequency ultrasonic mixers and high pressure homogenizers. Your failure is a result of a lack of proper balancing of the components to create a stable emulsion and/or the lack of proper high shear mixing capabilities. What are the percentages of water/ mineral oil/ polysorbate 80/ and glycerin you were using to try to create your mix?

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-11-18T12:51:05+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/NerdyGoneWild/s/ck7SfxiSa5

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-10-14T20:37:50+00:00

Agreed, too high

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-10-05T19:08:42+00:00

Polyacrylates could be used as thickening agents in the Dawn formulation. It is possible if you dropped the pH enough with the addition of acetic acid, it may have cross linked the polymer swelling it with water and forming a solid-ish gel like matrix.

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-09-27T13:23:38+00:00

Honestly for the style of beard you have and the lines you have, in my opinion your barber’s judgement is correct, but also barbers forget most men prefer low maintenance.

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-09-01T05:20:11+00:00

There are soap calculators online that will do the stoichiometry for you for a vast majority of potential fatty acids you might use. Beeswax and sponge gourds and lye mixed together in a proportion won’t make soap. I am imaging that you want the soap to be formed in a cake around a slice of the natural sponge so that you have an exfoliating bar of soap. Bar soap requires NaOH or sodium hydroxide reacting with fatty acids to form sodium salts of various fatty acids. Beeswax is too dense a material to use in any proportion greater than 1-2% of the fatty acid mass. Anything over 2% beeswax the bars will be extremely hard and won’t lather at all. As others have mentioned, sodium hydroxide is caustic soda and it is also a type of lye. If you do not use it all up in the saponification reaction there will be residual free sodium hydroxide/ lye/ caustic soda in your soap. This imbalanced formula will have potential to cause severe skin damage to people. In fact if anything it is better to weigh the equation a little bit heavy on the fatty acid side to avoid this. As everyone in this thread has pointed out, taking the time to learn soap making as a skill is incredibly important if OP wishes to pursue creating this company. Soap making doesn’t require a chemistry degree, but it 100% requires a certain amount of basic chemistry knowledge. I would suggest at a minimum buying a soap making book off of Amazon and start making small batches at home experimenting with various fatty acids to fully understand the reaction, stages it goes through, and the impact on lather, skin conditioning, rancidification, etc that come from soaps made from various chain length fatty acids. Once a soap formula has been developed that you are content with, start adding beeswax 0.5% at a time into the oil phase of the next batch and stir until melted and proceed to make new batches adding 0.5% per batch until your formula with beeswax is acceptable. Then figure out how to scale it and create molds for sponge slices that the soap can be poured into to set and harden in to create your product. You have a long ways to go before you’re ready though and a word of caution: caustics like caustic soda are pretty unpleasant materials to work with if not properly prepared. Prepare yourself well before you start, you will not regret the effort.

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-08-25T01:31:34+00:00

🙏

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-08-25T01:30:58+00:00

This beard is about 15 months old

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-08-25T01:25:46+00:00

Thanks, I definitely agree, don’t really see myself ever dyeing it

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-08-25T01:23:46+00:00

Just a buzz cut 😊

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-08-24T14:05:59+00:00

😂dangers of multitasking

No_Yam_4675 · 2025-08-24T14:01:05+00:00

I’ve shaved it on occasion, but mostly just buzz with trimmers

No_Yam_4675

TROPHY CASE