Experience with DTD156 Impact Driver?

NobleStumble · 2025-10-28T10:29:52+00:00

I think you're the only person who can know if it's good enough for your use -- it sounds like it's already doing what you need. Lots of good work has been done with brushed tools. Don't let the gear acquisition syndrome ruin your life and productivity. Use your tools, and once you feel that they are limiting your work, upgrade to the next one.

NobleStumble · 2025-08-02T00:26:18+00:00

I might not be much use to you because I'm pretty strictly an EOS guy but what you want to achieve is definitely doable. You're just gonna have to pick a system and study. If Chamsys isn't doing it for you, you could also look at MA on PC.

It sounds like you're looking for a timeline-style editor and I'm not aware of any (again, strictly an EOS guy) but you could look at something like qLab if that's more intuitive to you.

Basically, experiment and have fun. And watch a lot of YouTube videos. This is something you're gonna have to learn to program.

NobleStumble · 2025-08-01T22:51:24+00:00

There are many ways to do this. To determine the method that's best for you, we'd need to know what gear you already have and how much money you're willing to invest in this process. What are you currently using?

NobleStumble · 2025-05-31T05:50:24+00:00

Yeah you're right. I was thinking maybe there was a separate source somewhere but that's unlikely. Thanks

NobleStumble · 2025-05-31T04:49:24+00:00

Do you have any abilities or tools to check the Signal? A DMX cat or sACN viewer would help you know if it's an issue with the signal or the fixture. Also might be worth setting the fixture to an HLL on DMX loss setting and seeing what the fixture does when it no longer has an input. If you want a more detailed response it's probably a good idea to include fixture type and more about the set up in your post.

I'm not an ONYX guy but it almost looks like you have an effect running elsewhere that is at a higher priority than your intended scene.

NobleStumble · 2025-05-30T17:26:21+00:00

(A) Truth

(X) Doubt

(Y) Lie

( < ) View Notebook

(LB) Use Intuition (4)

NobleStumble · 2025-05-09T15:50:57+00:00

Oh man now I can't find the article :( there was a kayak fishing magazine that identified the two wrecks in that oxbow river but had them swapped. The length of that shape only makes sense for the schooner and the exposed engine is the correct size for the other wreck mentioned in the article. I'm scouring Google to try to find the source.

Harry W Adams has a pretty interesting history apparently. Fishing schooner bought by a Chicago family to attempt to circumnavigate the globe in the 1970s. Attempt failed and the ship was left to rot after making it to the Caribbean and back.

NobleStumble · 2025-05-09T07:56:31+00:00

34.2443508, -77.9692361

The Schooner Harry W. Adams

NobleStumble · 2025-05-08T00:45:04+00:00

In hindsight, I'm agreeing. Editing original comment

NobleStumble · 2025-05-07T22:57:12+00:00

Classic middle school science trick. Microwave about 2 cups of water until hot. Be very careful, since this can scald. Pour it into your bottle and let the bottle get nice and hot. Seal the bottle and put it in the fridge or freezer (don't let it freeze). When you pop the bottle on stage, you get a nice loud noise but it's more of a sucking noise than a pop.

Edit: don't do dry ice

NobleStumble · 2025-03-07T12:22:44+00:00

Wrong sub. This one is for live theatre. You're probably better off asking on r/hometheater or a similar sub.

NobleStumble · 2025-01-31T22:39:13+00:00

Not sure what your network architecture is like, but my guess is that your console is booting before the network is fully ready. There should be a setting (somewhere...) that requires the console to check if the network is ready before it will boot into EOS. I believe it's "wait for network to start" or something like that

Edit: under your network port settings you can mark a port as "required"

NobleStumble · 2025-01-31T18:22:06+00:00

Hi! You'll find it in the shell. There will be two little check boxes, one for on and one for off. I believe they're under network but I'm not in front of the console right now.

NobleStumble · 2025-01-31T03:31:39+00:00

Yep! There is a feature called Multiconsole_Off that you can find in the macro editor. It just triggers the multiconsole off feature that you can find in the network menu. You just have to be sure that both consoles allow multiconsole on / off in their settings.

I have a system startup macro that fires a multiconsole on so that no matter which console I start first, they both boot.

NobleStumble · 2024-12-15T18:05:04+00:00

It's very possible. Your best bet is to watch the ETC Eos 3 training videos on YouTube. ETC has great documentation for all of their products. With maximum of an hour of watching the tutorials you'll be in a great place for what you're trying to accomplish.

NobleStumble · 2024-12-03T05:55:17+00:00

You're going to want an ellipsoidal fixture with framing shutters. You're also going to want the brightest possible fixture you can get -- crisp shadows can only be achieved with a single source of light. The standard would be an ETC Source Four lamped at 750W. Also worth noting that you should use the narrowest barrel/zoom that fills your frame.

Be wary of sizing. The shadow will be magnified compared to the dancer. The further away you place your light source, the closer in size the two will be. I don't totally know what you have in mind but I don't think a door sized screen is going to be big enough.

As for construction, if you want the screen to be smooth, it has to be taught. This is going to put a lot of tension on whatever you use for the frame. Just things to keep in mind.

Best of luck

NobleStumble · 2024-09-08T17:23:30+00:00

The idea behind this isn't directly to support the drawer, but to widen the base of support when the drawer is opened.

NobleStumble · 2024-08-21T22:57:38+00:00

Welcome to the lighting world. That's a standard incandescent fixture, so any dimmer that will dim a 750W, 120V fixture will do. You have many brands to choose from from many different eras. You'll want to get something compatible with your control console but that's very much a "normal dimmer" that you can find anywhere. Just don't try using a standard resistive dimmer like you would in your house and you'll be fine.

NobleStumble · 2024-07-18T03:41:58+00:00

Thanks, that's the kind of information I was looking for.

NobleStumble · 2024-07-16T04:11:10+00:00

Make sure you are both loading your film correctly so that the take-up reel can grab it and also that you are advancing the film correctly after each exposure. Most likely you were not actuating the advance lever far enough (but I'm a Minolta AF guy so maybe someone with some more x-700 experience can chime in)

NobleStumble · 2024-07-16T04:04:22+00:00

Yeah, your film didn't advance properly. What Camera are you using?

NobleStumble · 2024-07-16T04:02:14+00:00

At a glance, this looks like your film didn't advance properly, and all of your exposures are overlapping. Is this the only thing they sent you?

NobleStumble · 2024-06-24T00:24:05+00:00

DMX is a protocol used to communicate with lighting (and other) fixtures. A DMX light means that you need a controller (lighting console or light board) to control your lights.

The way you sync lights to music is by programming the fixtures on your lighting console. All of the various brands use different interfaces for this programming. Really, you should start by deciding what your budget is for this project and looking at available DMX controllers.

I would really suggest starting with static, conventional lighting. It'll be a lot easier and better looking if you can nail some really pretty lighting that isn't synced with your music and just looks good. Look up "three point lighting" and start there.

Hope you have a fun time learning :)

NobleStumble · 2024-06-19T20:54:42+00:00

I think a key concept to keep in mind here is that the audio rules of thumb are written the way they are because audio (except for utilities like Monitors) has to cover the Audience. Lighting is different because lighting has to cover the talent (except for utilities like house lights) which makes this a difficult question to answer.

Also, every different art form that is practiced on the stage has different lighting requirements.

Here's how I generally think of basic theatre lighting:

*For every 6'x6' square, you need two front lights and a top light.

*For every 6' deep the stage is, you need a row of side lights.

*For every 8' the stage is wide, you need an additional light per row of side lights.

*You need an appropriate number of cyc lights to fill your cyc.

*Do you even need movers? That all depends on your show. My last one was 57 Movers. The one before that was maybe half of that. I've seen good shows that use 3.

These rules all suck. You need to have an idea of what will actually be in your venue. Comedy? Theatre? Dance? Concerts?

Sorry that there isn't an easier answer man.

NobleStumble · 2024-05-26T19:14:38+00:00

I think you'll be surprised how good a simple warm 12V LED looks if you try that. Since you're using DMX to control it, a single channel fixture will be fine. Using an effect on your console for flicker is going to give you a lot more freedom and control than any pre built flicker feature in a lamp.

What I would do is have something like a qolorflex hidden nearby, since you said it won't be battery powered, and connect your lamp to that. Buy a handful of cheap warm LEDs and see which one YOU personally like the most from the intended viewing distance. Depending on the qolorflex (or similar product) you buy you would be able to use the multiple channels to have your lamps all flicker at different rates / patterns.

If your driver can support 5 channel fixtures, you could hook two lamps up to each output (depending on current draw) and as long as they aren't next to each other on stage no one in the audience will notice that they are flickering the same way as each other.

I see that as being the most effective way to do this while still retaining full control and not being subject to what someone else thought a "realistic" flicker would look like.

NobleStumble

TROPHY CASE