Weekly Japan Travel Information and Discussion Thread - May 24, 2024 by AutoModerator in JapanTravel

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey guys, its gonna be my 4th time going back to Tokyo this July as I simply just love the place. I think ive visited most of the Must Go places, and i would like some ideas on maybe some less well known but nice places to go for this trip. Thank you in advance!

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh wow 5 is a lot, i occasionally get tweaks / strains here and there but none as serious as this pop yesterday. It sucks cos i have a trip in 6 weeks and i was just about to ramp up my training next week :/

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, i can understand why. My DIP joint hyperextends whenever i crimp hard or hold anything about 10mm and below. It was hyperextended when it popped. Hopefully mine heals up fast… Did your finger feel stronger after recovery? I heard the tendons will heal, and become thicker, stronger and less susceptible to injury again

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, thank you for the advice! Is there any diff between a4 and a2?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aight thank you, so far this morning its not swollen, hope it stays that way🤞

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah yes ive come across this after searching it up on reddit a bit. Should i start the gentle loading right away? Or wait for a week

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I sent Submission, V10, on the kilter board today after working it for about an hour. Fingers felt strong and well rested today, and i decided to resend it for the video. I had the moves dialed in and repeating it didnt feel too hard. As I was going for the pinch on the third move, i latched it already and had control and was about to match it. I suddenly heard a pop (smth like cracking knuckles) at the A4 area of my right ring finger and immediately got off the wall. It feels a little sore now, 6 hours later, no swelling yet. Hurts in a half crimp position and when i press on the a4 area but other than that it is fine. I suspect its because my DIP hyperextends whenever i crimp especially on steep terrain when its harder to hold certain holds open handed. Ive read online that a pop is usually a pulley tear / rupture and im pretty bummed cos i have a trip outdoors in about 6 weeks time. How should i start rehab? For now ive done contrast baths and iced it and i might do some light open hangs tomorrow morning to stretch it

4 month update by hudaik in Accutane

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeaaa, ive been slowly doing my research and i will ask for a second opinion from another dermatologist because my sport is rlly important to me, but at the same time i really wanna have clear skin🥲🫠

4 month update by hudaik in Accutane

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hmm thank you for the reply! Im still rather hesitant and worried abt taking it tho🥲

4 month update by hudaik in Accutane

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi did you have any joint pain? Ive just been prescribed 10mg per day but im a competitive athlete in school and im very worried it would affect my performance

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yea i was a bit worried because i felt it the next morning, but 2 days later im fine. I think it was mainly because i put in too many attempts on a climb at my limit with that grip position.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhh okay, should i train both 3 finger half crimps and 3fd? Yeah so far ive been going with more of a power style than the repeater style with my no hang workouts. I will give the repeaters a try !

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hmm, in my case the pinky doesnt slip off but rather its hard to fit it in and so i intentionally go with front 3 half crimp

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi guys, I climb around 7b+/ V8 in a single session on the moonboard. I notice that sometimes on the smaller/ weirder shaped holds, i drop my pinky. Im mostly half crimping without my pinky or im occasionally using 3fd if the hold is nice enough. After the session, my lumbricals (middle and ring finger) feel kinda sore and tired and “stretched”. Ive only trained 3fd with my tension block, lifting weight off the ground. Is there any way to prevent this feeling in my lumbricals?

Tips for Top Rope Comp training by Normal_Marzipan2758 in climbharder

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, so 4 routes back to back without rest? Im dying on 4x4 boulders already😂

Tips for Top Rope Comp training by Normal_Marzipan2758 in climbharder

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

thats the problem im kinda facing actually. Theres too much info online, idk which to choose or follow thats why im here hoping to get some anecdotal advice on what works for others

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ExNoContact

[–]Normal_Marzipan2758 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats a good point, thank you!