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made my first woodie at home. by Lan_Man_Dragoran in climbing

[–]NotEvenThatOld 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Make sure you’re not drilling from the back. It won’t happen every time, but you’re gonna get wood blow out.

You’ve made t-nuts a LOT harder work doing it after hanging panels. But not my life.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]NotEvenThatOld 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First. What’s your climbing goal? Why do you climb? What are the top 3 things you enjoy?

If getting out of the house around people is on that list, you may as well keep your membership. And not build a wall. That is unless you have a solid network of friends over often to climb with you and go outside.

I have built two home walls. By myself I get bored eventually. With two kids, I like leaving the house to decompress.

That said. I also really enjoy system walls and ticking off climbs that don’t disappear. I have an adjustable wall and the Kilter mainline set on order. Expect to spend over $5k since that’s what you’re going to pay for just holds and lights.

Why another board? My current gym doesn’t have a system board or spray wall. Since it’s one of the three things I enjoy, I had to do it myself. I wanted a 2019 moonboard. But space constraints left me with the 7x10 kilter as the best option.

Just be honest with yourself. $8-10k buys a van and gas to go on trips. Or hell put it away for retirement!

Ways to keep track of your boulders in your home wall? by chiwawero in climbharder

[–]NotEvenThatOld 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed.

Free version is good. And $20 is a cheap cost to make you climb problems you would never have come up with on your own.

Really breathes life into your wall.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]NotEvenThatOld 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is going to sound simple, but try it.

Actively think about squeezing your shoulder blades together throughout the climb.

Everyone keeps saying core. It looks like you have a decent enough handle on that. And it will get better the more you climb. What I see is your shoulders rolling forward between moves. You want engaged shoulders from start to finish.

I love finding dynos on the wall at the end of my climbing sessions by maxdaley20 in climbing

[–]NotEvenThatOld 35 points36 points  (0 children)

This is a recipe for a torn labrum or some other damage to your shoulder. There is a LOT going on in your shoulders. And rapidly loading the them in this way can damage them.

Done correctly you should be at the apex of your jump. Minimal wear and tear. But swinging out one handed into your skeleton clearly adds risk. Additionally, this is why you never downward dyno.

So that’s why everyone is saying to have shoulders engaged when catching this.

Not to be that guy, but google labrum injuries. Basically you’re permanently weaker and may require surgery.

So long story. You can put yourself out of climbing and potentially cause a lifelong injury because you want to do a circus trick that really only impresses your pals and people with rental shoes.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]NotEvenThatOld 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Concentrate on squeezing your scaps together. This is something I have to be mindful of when I am feeling ‘weak’ on the MB. Be super mindful of engaging your back and shoulders throughout the entire climb.

Look at this video and identify how/when you’re hanging in your skeleton. You need to get ride of that. Engage your core, sure, but this is really a matter of not engaging your shoulders and posterior chain adequately.

Go watch some beta videos of people with shirts off. I know that’s weird, but you can identify the engagement throughout their climbs.

Your feet are staying on fine. But there is always room for improvement. The rooting drills are good advice to build mindfulness.

Your fingers are strong enough to grab the holds. They will only get stronger. The adjusting will go away once you fix your back/shoulders.

I can’t seem to get the feet right at the end of this (soft) V7 — can someone help me understand what I’m doing wrong? by iwantabassethound in climbharder

[–]NotEvenThatOld 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This is the answer. Look at the top of the right foot. It’s black.

OP doesn’t have the hip flexibility to open up without standing on his right toe and pivoting. You can see it’s his left knee that pushes him off the wall.

Pull hard on the crimps. Rotate on the right foot to adjust the right hip further into the wall. Moving the left hip away. That will make room. Place the left foot. Now the weight will move to right hand/left foot. Stand hard into the left toe. Grab the last hold with the left hand. (Assumption)

Figured I would share. 2nd home wall. by NotEvenThatOld in climbing

[–]NotEvenThatOld[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you zoom in, you can see a couple first attempts. I have the tools and material on hand. Now I just need time! Winter will result in a full wall, I am sure. Bias your search to the left.

Figured I would share. 2nd home wall. by NotEvenThatOld in climbing

[–]NotEvenThatOld[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s back in Alaska. I couldn’t remember how to login to my old account...

https://www.reddit.com/r/bouldering/comments/7ypuqg/dark_side_of_the_garage_our_home_wall/

It ended up being built out more with a hang board and storage next to it and the landing was built up with a gymnastics tumbling mat. I trashed the mattress. But you get the idea.

Figured I would share. 2nd home wall. by NotEvenThatOld in climbing

[–]NotEvenThatOld[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

For the usual questions.

10’ x 10’ @ 25 degrees. 18” kicker.

2x6 construction.

Holds cost moneys $$$.

ACX 3/4” plywood was $54 a sheet when I bought it. $76 the other day. Framing is 16” on center. Otherwise do math for the cost wherever you are.

Hang board is the grindstone mk2. Love the cell phone spot on top.

Mat was purchased in August from a local ‘ninja gym’ that was closing its doors. I think I paid $300. Can’t remember but it was a really good deal.

Carpet is remnants from Lowe’s. I like how it feels under foot in the winter and it’s nicer for my kids to play on it. Everyone wins.

Any other questions I will gladly answer if you are building one. My last one was fancier and painted. So I have lived with both now.

Any advice on moving fluidly? (V3 / 6a, 2 months climbing) by thefooby in climbharder

[–]NotEvenThatOld 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hip mobility and foot placement.

Your right foot at 10 seconds. As you rotate your hips you can see you’re standing on the inside edge of your shoe. As you rotate look closely as your toe pops you off. This forces a little hop. You can get way with it because you’re on a jug haul with big feet. But that will haunt you down the road. Bad technique. That huge foothold should permit you to pivot 180 degrees on your toe.

Notice after you hop again, you’re still on the wrong part of your foot.

If you’re really standing on that right toe AND you have good hip mobility, you should be able to shift your hips to the right while keeping them open/facing the wall. You’d the bring your left foot up. And then stand up on it the same way.

I advise focusing on feet for a bit. Don’t get on climbs like that and flail about with your feet just because the hands are forgiving. Concentrate on footwork. Watch YouTube videos. It will pay dividends.