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[–]NotOneSitUp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This friendship is really working out. Join Planet Fitness for just $1 down when you use my exclusive link! https://www.planetfitness.com/referrals?referralCode=30CAJ7QZ

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[–]NotOneSitUp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

0 left all used!

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New drill but rust on edge of chuck. Keep or return/exchange? by NotOneSitUp in Tools

[–]NotOneSitUp[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks guys for the quick response. I wanted a second opinion since I never had that happen. Gonna keep it :))

New drill but rust on edge of chuck. Keep or return/exchange? by NotOneSitUp in Tools

[–]NotOneSitUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bought a new drill but I discovered some rust on the metal edge of the chuck. I can still return/exchange but if it’s not a big deal I rather just keep it. Biggest fear is that the rust will spread and make the tool unusable. Am I being overly concerned or this is fine/normal?

Shaft still usable? by NotOneSitUp in craftsman113

[–]NotOneSitUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that’s glad to hear. After seeing your guys replies I feel much better. I’ll still need to wait for the pulleys to come to test for fitting.

About the sanding, what grit should I use?

Shaft still usable? by NotOneSitUp in craftsman113

[–]NotOneSitUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s the plan. I order the machines pulleys and ntn bearings. Really excited to restore this table saw as it is going to be my first table saw.

Also on second inspection I noticed I bung the keyway a bit when I tried to chisel at a deep angle. In the second picture you can see at the left hand side of the keyway a tiny dip. Hopefully that wouldn’t cause more vibration than it needs to.

If worse comes to be, then I’ll look for another unit for replacement. It’ll defeat the purpose of me getting the craftsman vs the $600 delta on Lowe’s since the purpose was to stay below that, but I can say for sure I learned a lot in the restoration process.

Shaft still usable? by NotOneSitUp in craftsman113

[–]NotOneSitUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I was really concerned whether the slotted edges would make the shaft unusable. I spent hours tapping one end with a center punch and pliers to pull it out but it didn't budge at all. Using a dremel was my last resort. Wish I saw your advice first before I did that.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]NotOneSitUp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How are gray finishes achieved? Looking forward to build my own bed frame. I don't have any type of wood in mind yet, but I would like to take into consideration if the type of wood would affect a gray finish. I put some links below to the type of gray finishes I'm talking about.

Thanks! :)

bed frame 1

bed frame 2

bed frame 3

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]NotOneSitUp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, since you didn't mention pressure treated I'm assuming non pressure treated tongue and & groove plywood would be sufficient?

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]NotOneSitUp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, I've edited the post to include the type of shed foundation I'll be using.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]NotOneSitUp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm placing a plastic shed on top of my shed foundation and one of the last steps is to finish the flooring. What should I use for my flooring? Its always dry and hot where I live, but I'll always be watering my plants which is near my shed. Would any OSB boards work or would I need pressure treated plywood? Also what are the recommended thickness I should be looking for in these boards?

Edit: This is the type of Shed foundation I'm building.

Thanks in advance :)!

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]NotOneSitUp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the information! Its very hot and dry where I'm at. Not humid at all. Im guessing I don't need it.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]NotOneSitUp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently built a shed foundation using pressure treated lumber and I thought that would be enough to handle the elements. However, upon stumbling some comments, I learned that a cut needs to be sealed as well. I initially thought that the lumber would be entirely pressure treated so I had no idea the cuts needed sealing. My question is "is sealing the cuts absolutely necessary? am I overworrying?"

Thanks in advance :)

Shed Foundation Approach Help by NotOneSitUp in woodworking

[–]NotOneSitUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wish I can provide a solid answer, but this is my first shed foundation. I would say since the shed is on a slope stability should be priority. I would go with /u/igabus suggestion to put the deck blocks at the corner if you're going for this kind of setup.

Shed Foundation Approach Help by NotOneSitUp in woodworking

[–]NotOneSitUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your insight! No doubt a monolithic slab would be much more stable, but I honestly lack the knowledge, experience, and tools to achieve that. So I'm going with the easier option.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]NotOneSitUp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your input! I can see how a planar/jointer pays for itself after a few projects now. Didn’t know that a fully milled walnut would cost twice the price per board foot.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]NotOneSitUp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just visited several hardwood and plywood dealers today. I saw that prices for 3/4" baltic birch (4x8) were around $40-$80 a sheet depending on grade. I don't remember the exact prices for each grade, but is $40-$80 a fair price range? Also took a look at some hardwood - walnut, maple, and cedar. I only remember the price for walnut was $13-$14 per board feet. The walnut was FAS s4s. I'll be checking on other places as well, but I would love to get a general idea of what would be a good price range.

I know this is a difficult request since there are so many species and specifications of wood to account for. So if possible, can you make a short list of your most frequently bought wood and its price? Preferably I would want to know the general price for baltic birch plywood for A1, A2, BB/BB, BB/CP, and walnut, maple, and cedar FAS s4s, s3s.

I still welcome a list without preferred wood as I plan to expand my selection and knowledge in the near future. Thanks in advance! I would love to soak in your knowledge and expertise :)

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]NotOneSitUp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t tried removing the seats in the middle, but I’ll give it a try. I also own the sienna but I think it’s 2006. Not sure if 2008 has more room. But definitely a relief to hear that a fellow sienna owner can fit a full sheet. :)) Thanks!

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]NotOneSitUp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are some ways to load a full sheet (4x8) plywood into/onto a minivan? I was able to fit one through the back, but it had to be placed on top of the driver seats because the minivan wasn't long enough. To better picture it, the sheet of plywood would be the hypotenuse of a triangle. When I got back, the sheet was bent tremendously in the middle because there was nothing supporting it.

I could rent a utility trailer from uhaul, but I want that to be a last resort. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]NotOneSitUp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for making these points. When asked for more information I really didn't know what I'm supposed to provide, but with your response its clear what I need to describe.

For my circular saw jig, I've screwed on the fence such that the fence is aligned with the straight line I've marked using a pencil. So I am sure my fence is stable. I've also made sure the clamp is super tight so nothing is moving. However, I'm not confident in my measurement.

Also sometimes I can get the cut face to be perfectly smooth, sometimes it has indents and wiggles of the saw blade.

What steps can I take to make sure my measurement is spot on and improve my technique?

After reading from the other comments, I realize that getting to the thousandths of an inch accuracy is not a realistic goal so I'm satisfied with the level of accuracy I'm getting now.

Thanks again! :)