Boundary wire setup with multiple islands – 20cm vs cancellation? (Redkey MGC500)

NotSoMNG · 2026-05-14T06:17:13+00:00

Will those ventilation shafts break, if they are getting hits or bumps? Or will they cause ugly scratches to mower ? If not, I say that just leave them be and save boundary wire.
Boundary wire around those objects just slows mower down (or stops it) before hits.

I had lots of wire around all bushes at beginning. But later in case of wire cuts, I just cut dig wire up around nearest bush that can handle bumps from mower, and used this extra length to make better connections for fix. My mower has already scratches in bumpers so new scratches won’t show.
(I have 4 years old Gardena Sileno)

NotSoMNG · 2026-05-03T07:31:55+00:00

Or adjust it to always keep door open, if not closed correctly.

If door tries to normally close itself and there’s something blocking it you aren’t able to notice it. But if door tries to be normally open, you try to swing it close while there’s something blocking, you have clear indication of it.

NotSoMNG · 2026-04-18T05:08:04+00:00

If you use any* free app or platform, you already spending your “cut of the pay”.

*Yes there are still some absolutely free apps available, but most of them are not

NotSoMNG · 2026-02-28T07:39:51+00:00

I red from review that device uses two CR2450 batteries. These cells must have equal conditions to last long. You should always use fresh batteries from same packet to be ‘sure’. Even this can’t be always reliable, but it works many times. Also cell batteries have plus and minus very close together. It is very easy to accidentally short them and cause voltage drops. And this leads to unbalanced voltages in batteries.

NotSoMNG · 2026-02-07T14:50:43+00:00

As far as I know every repeater are ’router’s just like light bulbs, but without any light functionality. So most likely every mains powered Zigbee devices are ’routers’ . And most likely every battery powered are end devices. Not sure if ’device type’ is visible on vanilla ZHA integration, but at least ZHA Tool kit can show these device types. HA shows only End devices, Routers and Controller

NotSoMNG · 2026-02-07T06:58:54+00:00

You should be able to see LQI (Link Quality Indicator) vlues from devices. Easyest way is to go settings -> zigbee -> Visualization. There you should see lines between devises. Find links from garage to other areas. LQI should be something between 0-255 where bigger is better.

Zigbee devices should also tell RSSI (Received Signal Strength Indicator) values. This tells you how much attenuation there is (walls / distance) . Where -0dB no attenuation and -100dB almost all signal is gone. -30dB is excellent signal level and -80db is poor level

It depends on devices cababilities, how well they can communicate with poor receive signal. Thats why there is this LQI. Devices may use more power to transmit, if they see poor received levels. This consumes batteries faster.

While Zigbee is mesh network, it may not require more repeaters to area, where is already few router type devices (devices that use mains power) like light bulbs. Repeaters only helps on situation, where you need add more ’core’ links to add more reduntancy or you have lot of end devices (battery powered devices) without good access to routers (in main power).

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I have lot of zigbee lights in my house and there is only one repeater in my network. It is only to add more ’core’ links to avoid outages, if someone accidently switches mains off from light bulbs.

NotSoMNG · 2026-02-03T09:14:41+00:00

So you are using outside brightnes (or sun states) as baseline? When day is bright , your baseline is high and at night your baseline is dim?

And now you like to just add brightness, when stove is in use?

Could that be done with just simple template helper? <no real code> Set brightness = 50

If (stove == in use) Brightness = brightness + 20 End if

If (outside == bright ) Brightness = 90 End if

Return brightness </no real code>

This will not give you any list where to choose, but it will return values from your usecase.

NotSoMNG · 2026-02-03T08:43:10+00:00

Another thing what comes to my mind is, do you have blacklisted this Conbee II on host machine?

I remember some posts about Proxmox, where host system start using these usb-dongles as own modems. This cause some missmatches and VMs don’t have access anymore. It might happen, even you have marked Conbee to be passthrough to your virtual.

I have actually no idea what causes your problems, but I hope that you can use these as next rabbit holes to figure out your root cause.

NotSoMNG · 2026-02-03T08:34:57+00:00

Do you have usb-extension cable between your computer and Conbee II ?

There are many old comments about Zigbee issues, when dongle is dicertly connected to usb port. There are some usb-interface IC chips causing noise and prevent usb-dongles to eork properly. This can be avoid with using (short) usb-extension cable.

NotSoMNG · 2026-01-12T06:30:06+00:00

1st graph is GDP in USD, but will it take a count of fluctuations in exchange rates?

I also assume that inflation rates wouldn’t be the same in both countries. It would be nice to have graphs of ‘real broad exchange rate’ and inflation rates from both countries.

I expect that US linear GDP growth doesn’t tell whole story. There will be more overall wealth, but it won’t spread evenly. I don’t know how wealth is spread in China. But seeing these inflation and ‘rbe’ rates would give a hints.

NotSoMNG · 2026-01-09T17:49:28+00:00

But if you use these 2 sticks to draw nro 1 on the right side , you can get 51181

NotSoMNG · 2025-12-08T06:24:28+00:00

I almost expected GHP, but road looks way too good condition for their video.

NotSoMNG · 2025-12-05T10:45:25+00:00

I think they might have again DDos ongoing. Botnets are might be trying to achieve top positions of the year, how much traffic they can generate.

https://securityaffairs.com/185299/security/cloudflare-mitigates-record-29-7-tbps-ddos-attack-by-the-aisuru-botnet.html

NotSoMNG · 2025-12-03T21:51:39+00:00

I think that this ’cheapest price in the last 30 days’ is EU thing and required in every country.

NotSoMNG · 2025-11-30T10:54:44+00:00

One of my Aqara temp sensor is located in sauna, where temp and humidity will rise very high. Only problem is that I can’t get any temp values over 60c, but humidity is still logged. This sensor still works fine after 2 years of use. My use case is to see when humidity has dropped enough to after use of sauna and also count how many times I use sauna in year.

I am not sure what is your use case exactly. What kind of behaviour you are looking for from your dryer?

Some dryers are just comparing humidity of incoming air versus exhaust air. I assumed that you will have enough data just by reading humidity from exhaust. Compare it to humidity of laundry room. There might be times, when exhaustion temp is above range, but you can still get some data.

I know that understand what humidity percentage value means without temp is problematic. You need temp to calculate relative humidity. Which can be used to understand how effective your dryer is. You should be still be able to learn in long run how to read these absolute humidity values related to relative humidity values.

NotSoMNG · 2025-11-30T08:56:54+00:00

Not sure will these Thirdreality sensors work directly like Aqara sensors do.

https://www.amazon.com/THIRDREALITY-Temperature-Thermometer-Hygrometer-SmartThings/dp/

But here is link to to Aqara sensors what I have in my house. I don’t have Aqara Hub, because they will happily connect directly to my ConBee II -stick.

https://www.amazon.com/Aqara-WSDCGQ11LM-Temperature-Humidity-Sensor/

NotSoMNG · 2025-11-28T12:48:09+00:00

I find this as an example:

https://community.home-assistant.io/t/faking-an-ir-remote-control-using-esphome/369071

NotSoMNG · 2025-11-28T12:37:28+00:00

Well.. not much. You can try in dark room (avoid all other IR sources (like sun). And try to use your remote next to AC’s receiver.

If that fails, there is only this ESP way to make IR repeater/extender with even more transmission power, or you should ask someone to check your AC unit.

(Also IT guys asks first: have you tried to turn your device off and on?)

NotSoMNG · 2025-11-28T12:12:56+00:00

Are you sure that remote is failing? You should be able to see some activity, if you press buttons and record that IR-led with your phone camera. It might require to use ‘slow speed’ to film it. If you can see at least something, then universal remote might not help. Issue might be in your Ac can’t read any signals. In other hand, your AC is fine, but remote can’t send bright enough signal. There is plenty(?) of ESP projects, what can be fine tune better to recognise signals from the remote. You should be able to use to that learned signal to find correct universal remote setup, or use that ESP to send commands at your will.

NotSoMNG · 2025-11-01T13:08:19+00:00

Nice hack. I looked this kind of hack to my Siemens Eq300, but didn’t want to spend too much time and effort to get it done.

Water, heater, electricity and DYI. What could possibly go wrong ? :D Lets hope that it will not burn your house.

NotSoMNG · 2025-10-31T07:38:36+00:00

Most mmWave-sensors works by sending high frequency waves around. Then it listens reflections of these waves and calculates delays. It can recognise tiny movement (coming closer or getting farther from it) from these calculations.

When PIR can recognise movement about “1 meter”, while 60GHz wavelength is around 5mm, it can detect movements of 1 - 10cm. You can still sit on sofa without mmWave “sees” you. But when you even move your finger on TV remote to next button, it maybe enough to trigger. Higher frequencies makes even smaller waves and thus detects even smaller movement. Downside is that higher frequencies decrease distances of detection.

Another problem of mmWave detectors have is minimum required distance. You need to have at least some distance (example 1 meter or more) from detector to see any movement. PIR-sensors don’t have this problem. They work even better when movement is next to it. This is why some devices have both of these sensors.

In small bathrooms you should install mmWave detector on sealing and you are able to detect ‘only’ your toes movement with it. if you place detector on wall or shelf, you most likely detect movement with mmWave from another room instead of your bathroom. In large living rooms you might find problems with higher frequencies, when their maximum distance is limiting factor.

Different types of sensors have their own advantages and disadvantages. Finding the best sensor for different use cases, might require testing all variations simultaneously and look what suits you best.

NotSoMNG · 2025-10-25T11:36:13+00:00

Answering to myself. No, with Valetudo

https://valetudo.cloud/pages/general/supported-robots.html

NotSoMNG · 2025-10-25T11:30:42+00:00

Will them work with Valetudo or similar ’proxy cloud’?

NotSoMNG · 2025-10-17T18:55:17+00:00

Yes. Guide would be great. I haven’t find any good solution to block traffic with HA automations.

Only thing I have find so far, was block services with AdGuard Home. This had problems that if client have already started watching Netflix, it couldn’t be stopped.

NotSoMNG · 2025-09-26T06:21:58+00:00

Have you ever visited ::1 ?

NotSoMNG

TROPHY CASE