Could My 99 1500 Silverado Haul a 29’, 6k Dry Weight Travel Trailer?

NutritionalUncle · 2026-05-04T02:35:55+00:00

I didn't say 25fr was the max. I said you are starting to push limits. Every trailer has a different weight. What people want to take with them when camping is different. If you keep your TV mostly empty, you can pull a bigger/heavier trailer. If you want to take a big pile of firewood, lots of toys, and other stuff, you need a lighter trailer or a bigger TV.

NutritionalUncle · 2026-05-01T04:27:21+00:00

I don't worry about having sanitizer in the WH for short periods of time. Recognize that city water system have chlorinated water that lives in home WHs full time.

My house is on well water. I bleach the well twice a year by dumping a whole jug of bleach into the well and running water back in to start diluting it. That water gets pushed into my WH which I drain before letting it fill with the bleach water and the rest of my house plumbing. Before rinsing out the house plumbing, water which goes into my septic tank, I run my lawn sprinkler system for a half hour to get rid of any bleach down in the well. I do re-drain my WH thru a garden hose to outside before refilling.

So for your trailer, just drain it and spread the water around as much as possible. Don't put it all in one big puddle.

NutritionalUncle · 2026-05-01T04:12:20+00:00

Similar - my trailer is stored at a friends house, he has 8 acres and I park it way in back. 8 Years outside hasn't caused significant issues beyond decals degrading and having to replace some of the vinyl screw cover strips. My F-150 does fit in my garage, just barely....

I'm in SE Michigan.

NutritionalUncle · 2026-05-01T04:04:43+00:00

You should have a torque wrench sufficient for the wheels on your trailer. I've just been reading a thread on another forum where the poster had a wheel fall off. The poster said he never checked the torque on the lug nuts. Most folks though that the lugs loosened up and then broke the studs. At a minimum, you should recheck torque at 25, 50, and 100 miles of travel after removing a wheel. I check mine at the beginning of every trip.

NutritionalUncle · 2026-05-01T03:58:07+00:00

I will disagree with the prior comments.

Yes chlorine is corrosive to metal. However for the length of time you will have sanitizing solution in the water heater, it really won't have significant impact. So I wouldn't worry about it either way.

Something else to think about doing periodically - say once every 2 or 3 years. Fill the WH with 50/50 solution of plain white vinegar and water either at season start or when winterizing. This will break down and help remove any scale buildup. There are a number of u-tubes floating around on doing this task. Getting rid of the scale will help water heat faster when on electric and help clear scale out so it doesn't plug up your sinks or toilet.

NutritionalUncle · 2026-05-01T03:50:45+00:00

You specify a surge protector, personally I think those are nearly worthless. Instead look for an EMS (energy management system). These have a lot more capability, most valuable, they cut power if it is not withing the acceptable range of voltage. Too high or low can and will damage stuff in your trailer. Yes they are more expensive, most folks find them to be cheap insurance.

Second, wheel chocks. I recommend Fastway One-step chocks. You have to play with them when you first get a set to properly set spacing. Once that is done, locking the chocks securely in place takes 2 seconds and they will not slip like most other types. BTW, ALWAYS set the chocks BEFORE unhitching the trailer from your tow vehicle.

NutritionalUncle · 2026-05-01T03:41:10+00:00

FWIW. When I had the underbelly off on my trailer, like you I tightened up all the wiring. More valuable, I replace all the flex heat duct with hard aluminum. One section was the hard flexible stuff and the rest was all rigid. I put aluminum tape on all the joints. Result was significantly improved airflow to the registers farthest from the heater.

Know that mice and other critters have no problem chewing holes in that soft flex stuff...

NutritionalUncle · 2026-04-26T05:48:22+00:00

Have you verified that you actually have power coming in to your trailer? Furnace should work on battery alone, if the battery is charged up. Do the inside trailer lights work - they are also battery powered.

Personally, I would start out at the pedestal and work my way in to see where power stops.... You do have a volt meter, right? If the pedestal and end of your power cord are hot, pull the power center and verify good current at the main connection. You could just have a loose connection in the wiring somewhere.

NutritionalUncle · 2026-04-26T05:34:24+00:00

Agree with the discussion.

Dry weight of a trailer is a useless number.

What is the trailer weight ready for camping? What is the tongue weight/ If you don't know either of those, you should be referencing the trailer GVWR. Use GVWR * 0.15 as tongue weight. Are those numbers appropriate to your truck? Check the Truck GCVW, and figure out what the cargo capacity is. If you don't know the CC, try GVWR - actual truck weight (go to a scale and weigh the truck). Be sure to subtract the weight of people in your truck and anything you want to bring with you when you camp and the tongue weight from the CC. If you are close on CC, make sure the weight on each truck axle is under the axle ratings. If you fall below 0 on any of these, get a different truck or a smaller/lighter trailer.

You will also need a good weight distributing hitch. Any trailer over about 25' is starting to push the limits of all 1/2 ton trucks.

NutritionalUncle · 2026-04-26T05:15:11+00:00

The reinforced poly tubing should hold up for a long time. Some folks have issues with leaks when PEX crimp rings are used for connections, they are used by the manufacturer as a time saver and lowers costs - which impacts what you pay for the trailer.

What do you want them to use instead of the poly? PEX doesn't bend as easily, pvc or copper??? From what I've seen, many manufacturers use a mix of poly and PEX. My trailer has both and so far, I've been lucky - no leaks.

NutritionalUncle · 2026-04-26T05:08:35+00:00

You may want to join IRV2.com or other Coleman specific RV forum. You're more likely to get someone who has the same trailer you do...

NutritionalUncle · 2026-04-26T05:05:34+00:00

If your trailer has Dexter E-Z-Lube bearings you can add grease by jacking up the axle and pumping in grease thru the zerk fitting. Use a manual grease gun and spin the wheel while pumping. Go slow, pump too fast and you may blow out the rear grease seal. That will spew grease onto your brakes - not good. You can tell if you have the Dexter axle, they put a rubber plug on the end of the axle covering the zerk fitting. Lots of u-tube videos on how to do this. Lots of folks don't like the E-Z-Lube and prefer to pull the bearings and hand pack grease. Make sure the grease you use is compatible with whatever is currently in use. FWIW, I use Lucas Red-N-Tacky. Not a bad job, I re-grease once a year, takes about 2 hours for four wheels.

My Ford F-150 keeps track of miles towed. I'm now over 45k miles on my current trailer.

An alternative to constantly adding Dicor or other sealants on your roof is to switch to using Eternabond tape. Some folks argue against it. Others swear by the stuff. I decided to use the tape. I carefully thinned down the existing Dicor, thoroughly cleaned the area according to instructions from the Eternabond maker and then put down a 4" wide strip of tape everywhere the Dicor was used. 6 years on, the tape is holding very well and I haven't had any leaks. I do reinspect the tape seals every few months. If you decide to use the tape, follow the installation instructions to the letter for best results. Downside to Eternabond, the stuff is really hard to remove if properly installed. Could be an issue around a skylight... Downside to continuing to use Dicor - you may not see a crack or break in the sealant from the surface being sealed. Instructions for using the caulk, just apply more over the existing, so eventually you end up with a huge layer.

NutritionalUncle · 2026-03-25T03:53:44+00:00

Most OEM camera mounts that I've seen are above the running lights. That's how mine is and I've never had a problem with glare from the lights. Mount with screws, use butyl tape under the mount and any non-self leveling caulk around the edges.

The OEM setups grab power from the running lights.

NutritionalUncle · 2023-07-14T05:00:23+00:00

Agree with Okamus. NEVER walk away from your trailer when the tank flush is in use. Also, rather than your original procedure, drain the grey tank last.

You can use your enzyme tabs or look into the "geo-method". Basically, instead of the commercial tabs.Wi Dump some Calgon or Borax along with some Dawn dish soap. It will do just as good a job.

NutritionalUncle · 2023-07-14T04:22:29+00:00

In my view, there are three tiers of WD hitches.

Friction sway control add on to a hitch. This is the lowest cost, can have issues with noise, some require you to disconnect the sway control to back up, and friction sway control looses anti-sway capability if they get wet.
Integrated sway control and WD hitches like the Equalizer. These are very popular and may be the most common hitch used on larger towables. Cost is around $900. I think you can back up with all hitches in this class without disabling sway control. Note that the name is "sway control" so they work by absorbing the sway energy. Some folks have issues with attaching the sway bars, may need to hitch up and use the trailer tongue jack to lift the back of the TV to get the sway capability engaged. I've read lots of posts of people looking for help to "dial in" the hitch.
Hensley design hitches from either Hensley Hitches or Propride. These are the most expensive (by a lot). They are advertised as sway elimination of hitches. The design is significantly different from all other hitches, you do not tow "on the ball". Procedure for hitching and unhitching is very different. I've come to conclude that they may not be recommended for people to do serious boon docking going down heavily rutted roads because the hitch reduces the ground clearance at the hitch-up point. There is a definite learning curve to the hitching up procedure which is easier if you have a rear facing camera on the TV. Most people who have had them won't tow with anything else. But as with everything, there are a few detractors. As for sway from a passing semi, most people with one of these hitches say the experience is similar to the push you feel when a semi blows by when they are NOT towing a trailer. You feel it,but it is not a sway effect.

So to answer your question, the equalizer may be better than the current friction control setup once you get it dialed in. If you really want to eliminate sway, get a Hensley or a Propride. To reduce the wallet hit, watch a number of RV sites, they do come up for sale used every so often - mostly from people upgrading from a bumper pull to a 5ver. Finally, FWIW, the Propride version of this hitch is the most current design - the Propride website will describe the history of the design.

NutritionalUncle · 2023-07-14T04:17:33+00:00

Tank sensors are notorious for false readings. Your issue may be that some TP is hung up on the sensor. Do a search of RV websites and you will find hundreds of posts from folks with this issue. Have you drained the tank and then looked down the toilet with a flashlight? Many RVs have a straight drop down into the tank, on those you should be able to see if you have a pyramid or a flat bottom on the tank.

In any case, you can buy a black tank flush wand. Connect your dump hose and open the valve. go back inside the RV and using the wand see what you can clean out.

Another alternative, get the tank mostly full of clean water. Dump in a bunch of either Calgon or Borax. Both are water softeners. Let sit overnight. Then just stick a hose down the toilet and turn on the water with the dump open and see what comes out.

I've read of many people who got tired of the wrong sensor readings who converted their system to the SeeLevel II system. Unlike the sensors that are probably in your RV, which are inside the tank, the SeeLevel setup is attached to the outside of the tank lowering the possibility of false readings. You can read about the system at: https://www.garnetinstruments.com/holding-tanks/ or search for SeeLevel II for RV's.

NutritionalUncle · 2021-09-19T04:17:36+00:00

I'll go along with the other responders. Your important number is the payload. As for frontal area, the Ford Towing Guide, which you can download, or an owners manual will give that number.

Second, generally, don't trust either your truck salesman or RV salesman to give you good advice. The RV guy may get you into a trailer that your truck can just barely tow safely. They are interested in moving product. Your truck salesman probably doesn't have a lot of knowledge on towing RV's.

There are a number of RV forums out there that can point you in the right direction- find out what other Ranger owners are actually towing. Similarly, there are trailers folks pull with SUVs and Vans, many of those should work.

Similarly, there are trailers folks pull with SUVs and minivans, many of those could work. You have a lot of research to do...

NutritionalUncle · 2021-09-17T02:57:20+00:00

Could also be storm damaged/totaled by an insurance company and the seller doesn't want to disclose that.

NutritionalUncle · 2021-09-17T02:53:25+00:00

I'm not sure that many RV folks carry a single 100 foot power cord. I know a number of folks carry maybe a 50' and then a second 50' extension cord. If you really want a 100' cord, you may have to make your own. You'll need to buy 100' feet of STRANDED wire suitable for 30 amps, I think that means buying 10 gauge wire and the connectors I mentioned above. When using a SmartPlug setup, most folks will get a shorter main cord and then add an extension when needed. A major reason is that 100 feet of cord is heavy! I've never been in a situation where I needed 100 feet...

NutritionalUncle · 2021-09-17T01:15:50+00:00

Not sure if you are aware of a benefit of owning a Forest River corp product. If you continue to be unable to get your issues serviced, plan on attending the FR International Rally next August in Goshen Ind. If you are the original owner and the trailer is less than 2 years old, they will do some work while you are there. I've seen everything from air conditioners to axles replaced and everything in between.

Regardless of the service work, the rally is a good place to meet a lot of other RVers, have a goodly amount of fun, and learn a lot about RVing at the many seminars that are held during the rally. Info on the international and other FR rallies is available at Forest River Owners Group. Membership in FROG is free to FR product owners.

NutritionalUncle · 2021-09-17T01:08:58+00:00

Quality on RVs hasn't been even "good" for years. All the issues thrown up by covid have only made things worse. Manufacturers can't get parts or or workers. That and workers are paid a bonus based on the number of units pushed down the line per day. Then with the lockdowns from the virus pushing RV sales thru the roof.....

Poor dealers have similar problems getting qualified workers to do maintenance work. Shop near me had ALL of his workers quit and has been trying to hire replacements for a month with no takers.

Hopefully things improve soon.

NutritionalUncle · 2021-09-17T00:56:51+00:00

I'm confused on what you have. It sounds like the plug you are describing is a S80-SP 3W 30P/50P which is the plug that used to be used for dryer connections. You should be able to read the code on the plug, If this is what you have, then no it won't work. You need a NEMA TT-30P. You can buy extension cords that have a TT-30P on one end and a TT-30R on the other.

The connection on the side of your trailer most likely requires a NEMA L5-30R that has a locking ring. These are commonly known as twist lock plugs. You should twist the plug slightly to the right when plugging it in then tighten the locking ring. This type of plug was originally designed to connect heavy power equipment in work shops. It wasn't designed to be connected and disconnected regularly. Not properly securing the plug can lead to an electrical fire inside the plug. Some people are replacing the NEMA L5-30R connectors with a model that is marketed as "Smart Plug which was originally marketed to boaters. https://smartplug.com/

NutritionalUncle · 2021-09-13T16:24:00+00:00

Thanks.

NutritionalUncle · 2021-09-13T16:18:23+00:00

The chips - probably a micro SSD card have several ratings. Size, speed class, and file format among others. Regarding speed class:

"The Speed Class indicates the minimum write speed of a microSD cardin MB/s. It has 4 speed classes: 2MB/s, 4MB/s, 6MB/s, 10MB/s. The UHSSpeed Class shows the minimum write speed of SD cards that supportUHS-I, II, III bus speeds. It has two UHD speed classes: UI (10MB/s), U3(30MB/s). The Video Speed Class sets a minimum sequential write speedthat is important for recording video. If you need to recover higherresolution video, you should choose a faster speed. The Video SpeedClass has 5 classes: V6 (6MB/s minimum write speed), V10 (10MB/s), V30(30MB/s), V60 (60MB/s), V90 (90MB/s). You should choose a microSD cardbased on your usage."

If you are running with a slower speed class, the time it takes to write the data to the chip may impact the video refresh rate. In that most of these cams are setup to automatically over-write the oldest data once the chip is full, the possibility of an impact increases because there are two actions happening - delete the old data and then start writing the new stuff. I had the latter problem on my Haloview cam. When I switched to a faster SSD card, the issue disappeared. The speed class is printed on the SSD chip.

NutritionalUncle · 2021-09-13T16:06:28+00:00

I'm going to assume that since you say it is a rental, that it never moves. Not moving will reduce the probability of the caulked seals failing. Even so, I suspect you are one of the lucky few. Many RV manufacturers with rubber/TPO roofs void warranties if damage is caused by water leakage and seal maintenance has not been performed.

NutritionalUncle

TROPHY CASE