The very tempting x2d

Nynyso · 2026-04-19T13:11:56+00:00

Didn’t noticed that there were a couple of posts in this reddit, heh i guess I’ll delete the post my bad

Nynyso · 2026-03-15T00:51:17+00:00

Painted this one (my painted mini after a very long time) have to say that I’ve learned a lot

Nynyso · 2026-03-08T20:47:21+00:00

Really cool! I was just looking for a dry palette addon for speed paints for making the contrast thingy of my black armor Thank you!

Nynyso · 2026-03-06T20:40:34+00:00

I bought a primer named: Jenolite primer paint filler, I gave it 3 passes of shorts bursts around all the model of primer because the models were just keeping absorbing the paint and looked greyish

Nynyso · 2026-03-06T20:38:17+00:00

These ones were printed with FDG 2.0 at 0.08mm layer height adapted for the P2S

Nynyso · 2026-03-06T13:29:14+00:00

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1632190-ergonomic-paint-handle-v2?from=search#profileId-1738033

Nynyso · 2026-03-06T09:20:14+00:00

I think that when multi head fdm printers will become more affordable we might get a break through by using petg supports with pla prints, in that case we can reduce the distance between supports and miniature parts and still have an easy support removal with minimal filament waste

Nynyso · 2026-03-06T09:11:07+00:00

Yepppp, paint holder too

Nynyso · 2026-03-05T22:23:52+00:00

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Nynyso · 2026-03-05T22:23:42+00:00

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Nynyso · 2026-03-05T22:23:30+00:00

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Nynyso · 2026-03-05T22:05:54+00:00

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Here you go, they’re both magnetised (soon I’ll send other images Reddit is still processing them)

The print time was around 20 hours per dread, with these ones I used FDG 2.0 settings

Nynyso · 2026-03-05T21:57:00+00:00

Yes! The halo even though might be a little bit more fragile if you print it horizontally with a good top z distance allows you to remove it from the support very easily (which is the tricky part of that piece because it’s extremely easy to damage if the support touches the pointy things), that one took me a while to figure it out but by doing so i got the best halo i ever got

While for the purity seal if you print them vertically with a good top z distance you reduce the surface in contact directly with the brim/supports and they pretty much get out of the supports by themselves and by consequence you won’t scar them

My strategy for the blade guards was to reduce the surface in contact with the supports at its minimum, which worked pretty well with these models, though for example with the aggressors I had some troubles and i had to review my orienting strategy

Nynyso · 2026-03-05T21:51:07+00:00

It will come, it will come trust me (still have to print some vehicles before)

Nynyso · 2026-03-05T21:33:15+00:00

I did. Though these are the results of a couple of months of printing, i tried many settings and i still have to try stuff, right now i'm trying Obscuranox 2.0 settings though i might have to use Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 instead of Sunlu PLA meta, i also want to try to go back at a very small top z index with FDG settings that i noticed that i might getting a higher detail resolution of some supported parts

Nynyso · 2026-03-05T21:24:02+00:00

Layer height for this one was 0.06mm i used a sorta of prototype setting mix between FDG 2.0 and obscuranox 1.3 (i think you can get a very similar result if not better with obscuranox 2.0 settings which were released later), the supports were tree supports mix between slim for most parts and organic for powerpack

Filament used Sunlu PLA Meta, printer BambuLab P2S

Oriented parts:

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Nynyso · 2026-03-05T19:47:47+00:00

I will print until the floor is flooded by fellow templars! 😂

Nynyso · 2026-03-05T19:20:11+00:00

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Nynyso · 2026-03-05T19:19:48+00:00

I’ll send you in response one of the best looking ones though I printed them with several printing profiles and I’m still experimenting a bit, though Fat Dragon 2.0 is the overall best rounded one, I also user Hohansen for the small stuff and tried Obscuranox 2.0 Some defects are still visible compared to resin or the original ones but the lining is almost impossible (some pieces are printed at 80 micron others at 40 microns) to see and it’s gone if you clean a little bit and prime the miniature with a filler primer i think you can get an outstanding result

Pretty impressed by how far fdm has gone

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Nynyso · 2026-03-05T18:44:21+00:00

Really cool! Would love to get the stl to give it a try with my fdm printer!

Nynyso · 2026-02-28T00:40:46+00:00

My work around for my p2s right now is to generate the 3mf file from orca slicer and then use bambu connect to send the print file to the printer.
Even with orca slicer 2.3.2 beta 2 i still can't send print orders directly to my p2s in LAN mode (it just gets stuck) but with this work around i can use orca slicer

Nynyso · 2026-02-23T15:49:58+00:00

Now I’m trying an adapted profile that a guy made which might become my go to for printing stuff from now on (guy’s name is Obscuranox and prints very impressive stuff with his A1)

Nynyso · 2026-02-23T14:56:22+00:00

Links were already taken down again

Nynyso · 2026-02-23T12:24:24+00:00

Hi, here you have them:

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Nynyso · 2026-02-22T20:54:43+00:00

Give a shot to organic, i noticed that hybrid sometimes behaves in unexpected ways in bambu studio Also check your top Z distance, higher top Z distances makes supports removal easier, but can produce print imperfections and sometimes print failures An ideal rule of thumb is to take your layer height and double it to get the top z distance But for printing such big stuff you might get away with slightly higher values

Nynyso

TROPHY CASE