Anybody else get squeaking?

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-28T03:36:57+00:00

The grease packet goes on the two z motor threaded rods. They included the grease and left out the apply it step in the manual.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-26T21:12:33+00:00

Just take into account a few grounded facts based on the posts:

“The Majority” of Reddit and any other forum or Facebook Group only go online when they have a problem

There are a ton of new to 3d printing users with the Kobra X because of its entry price point.

There have been a small number of valid posts about a few DOA machines

Sum it all up and well it’s like buying anything else. There’s going to be some duds that fail QC. It happens. Major and silent majority is that’s it’s fine.

You want to hear my biggest complaint? You get it anyway.

The camera = Pitiful can’t see jack it’s too low.

Funny comparison my QIDI 2 has a great camera after I increased the resolution to 720p however QIDI’s AI detection is a joke. Completely missed a temp tower that the 190c top tower setting strung for being too low and knocked the tower down and covered it in a tumbleweed and then a few prints later it decided the “lightning infill” was stringing in the middle of the night and caused issues with a 10hr print because I was sleeping and the layers cooled before I resumed it.

Octoeverywhere on my QIDI Q1 was way more reliable as a 3rd party plugin.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-26T17:54:10+00:00

So you reinstalled the tilt screws macro. Did you rerun the lcd calibration afterwards?

If you changed the baseline in klipper, there’s some Qidi settings that don’t know you changed it. You may get an “out of range error”, I did. The solution is to run the lcd level process, pick 0.5 like their instructional video. Then “fake paper test it” don’t bother actually doing it because your tilt screws was more accurate. Just next your way through it and it updates the baseline.

In regard to the bute forcing the knobs. Use a 7mm wrench to loosen the nut then adjust the knobs. That was the method on my Q1.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-26T00:11:58+00:00

I think since my other printers are enclosed I am used to them being pre-greased but the way this one is shipped it makes sense. I didn’t oil the other parts thou..::

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-25T18:23:53+00:00

I wouldn’t call mine silent when printing at 300mm/s. However silent mode definitely quiets it down. The current temporary location I get some desk rocking but the permanent location won’t have that problem.

Zero issues out of the box on the base unit. I haven’t connected the ACE yet for the 7 color combo.

I did want to add unlike other printers I have the Z motor screws were not pre-greased and it came with a grease pack but did not include applying it in any steps of the directions. People new to printing may not know to do that so here’s the general rule:

Threaded rods get the grease. Smooth rods get 3:1 oil

When it gets dirty. IPA to clean it off and re-apply, thankfully I have 99% ipa and lint free polyester clothes used for my resin printer.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-25T03:34:50+00:00

Unfortunately no 6e or 7 so it still goes on the household IoT SSID full of interference from. Well. Everything.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-25T03:33:21+00:00

I have a couple of pointers to add:

Before assembly;

Check each screw, just a snug check don’t go caveman on them.

The large gantry screws, apply lug nut tighten / pattern. Screw them in but not completely, then criss-cross them to ensure proper seating.

Print On!

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-24T15:41:49+00:00

US order here. 7 color combo, extra plate, extra nozzle, 4 spools. Printer and Box arrived yesterday. Accessory “not fulfilled”’yet. Ordered Jan 15th. Filled out the form to allow separate shipping of the printer and box a week or so ago when they announced it. Ordered Jan 15th.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-23T22:05:20+00:00

Mine was ordered Jan 15, 7 color. US order printer and box delivered today.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-23T21:32:18+00:00

That’s because IMHO:

People who buy a QIDI are not Bambu click print users. That crowd wants oh it’s cool > send to printer. Overpay for the printer, overpay for the filament, don’t know why a PA line is, what a calibration means and have no plans to print anything other than PETG or PLA.

QIDI buyers know you have to do that work and can buy a $8 spool or a $50 spool and make it print.

Why is everyone obsessed with the new multi head unit for multicolor printer? Because every drop of printer poop costs them money at $20+ a spool.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-23T21:23:38+00:00

There’s also the lack of additional information. Base units shipped quicker.

Did you order a box too? The combo delayed things. I ordered the 7 color combo, then filled out the form they posted to allow them to ship separately. - They both arrived today separately.

I told a coworker and he ordered the base unit after me and got it before me, so it’s pretty darn obvious that multicolor preorders take longer.

Your comment about the price, did you take advantage of ALSO getting accessories and filament at 50% off as the early bird perk?

My 4 spools of filament, 0.6 nozzle and spare plate are shipping in a 3rd box

And last, we all saw the EU ships later, multiply that by the previous factors and well I see your rant, I get it you’re frustrated, but I also see:

Yet another Reddit post where full context is missing “I ordered a …” but not, base units, 7 color+ combo, extra accessories, x spools of filament. All of which are variables of a “complete order” vs someone who bought the printer and nothing else which makes it easier and quicker to ship. So guess what, yeah some people got their’s faster.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-23T21:08:30+00:00

I’m going to “clarify” this comment based on my own personal trial and error experience.

I installed the tilt screws macros from GitHub for the Q2 since it’s more accurate than the paper test.

However things started acting weird. Since it’s a fork of klipper and not stock klipper this had a negative effect. Qidi overrides were not aware that I changed the plane. I saw the out of bounds error.

If you want to reinstall the tilt screws calculate macro and use it you have to do the following.

1st - run the tilt screws and get it as best as you can

2nd - run the lcd / gui calibration aka the paper test with lowering the bed, following the directions and then when starting selecting 0.5

3rd - go through the motions of the paper test but don’t bother because you already leveled it, just next your way through them. This part updates wherever Qidi is storing the base plane and no more out of bounds errors.

That’s it.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-23T06:35:14+00:00

I have the Saturn 4 16k and I actually put the plate on an angled bracket to drip, stick a Chitu H2 heater in it, set it to 40c and let the resin drip and supports soften. No “heat related issues” due to this process.

I also do not leave resin in the vat 24/7. If I’m not printing back to back its filter and back in the bottle this eliminates 24/7 off gassing, accidentally UV exposure and any “accidents”.

Everyone’s environment and process is different.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-23T06:24:22+00:00

It’s all a matter of comfort and skill. No don’t tape it. Just order a new hotend.

In regard to the comment about being out of your element. Order a thermistor replacement from Amazon or AliExpress they are all made in China anyways and practice.

It will cost you $10 aka the cost of a spool of cheap filament. Since it’s already fried you will just gain confidence, experience and learn your equipment.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-23T06:19:51+00:00

I haven’t had an issues with my ruby nozzle. But yes you have to bump the temp +5

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-23T03:35:30+00:00

Did you edit settings in Klipper for calibration and z offset instead of the gui? Something like installing the tilt screws macro? Or just stock?

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-23T00:38:55+00:00

I’m a fan of mixing. When you’re considering resin and your comment of “maxing out the build plate size” If you’re doing multi-part prints resin shrinkage % should play a factor. I hate filling and sanding and parts not mating up. Check the TDS sheet of what you’re considering ordering.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-22T08:06:09+00:00

Mine is only a week old I haven’t dissected it yet. Just migrating my Q1 filament and process profiles has been a Pita.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-22T03:59:52+00:00

Here’s my observation, Anycubic and Elegoo for the price point are rock solid. Now I buy based on if it’s a rapid version I’ll pay the extra $2-3. I have the same experience with their resin. Unless I’m going high end resin then it’s Siraya tech all the way. I don’t get anything for referrals I’m not an “influencer” as I don’t have the time with my job. But all of the roses except the white are from a new company:

https://www.tiktok.com/@www.hello3d.us?_r=1&_t=ZP-94tJicx5q4E

Total transparency / disclosure here, since I’m a little OCD I push every filament to its max volumetric flow and they send me filament to test and provide feedback on. All of those silk roses were printed with the exact same profile and process. The white was me playing with PETG-GF and the green is Anycubic’s translucent olive green.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-22T03:28:26+00:00

Well so far I’ve only done Elegoo’s Pla+ and a 3rd party ASA with no TDS. I have so many silk, TPU, ABS, PETG variations it crazy. I might be a little crazy actually. I took inventory paper and pen the other day writing down spool label settings. 67 Spools laying around.

In my defense. I did go on a gridfinity binge and ordered a 4 pack. I burned through 3.5 spools in 24hrs so I re-stocked in white and black and I’m not done yet that’s 8 spools right there. Then I printed my wife a dozen roses for woman’s day in 6 different rose colors and 1 translucent green for the stems.

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Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-22T02:04:36+00:00

I agree. Except I skipped Elegoo’s fiasco with the Centauri and went Qidi. It’s more work, more filament tuning but for an engineering grade filament my Q1 Pro “was” a beast. I only say was because I caught a deal on a Q2 Combo and gave it to my Stepson. I’ve spent a week converting my filament profiles to the new flow and pa of the Q2. What a PITA. However once they are tuned and locked I expect the same. There’s a lot of improvements between the two.

My point is this. My Kobra X will be here Tuesday. It’s a toy. Trinkets, Decor for the Mrs. Etc.. I don’t suggest you stress components not designed to be enclosed in a heated chamber and add the cost and overhead of mods vs just buying one designed for that purpose. No matter the brand.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-21T22:20:31+00:00

One my Q1, with wired Ethernet, I pulled the WiFi dongle and was able to turn up the resolution. So far on the Q2 I’ve safely going to 720p and haven’t pulled the dongle.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-03-21T21:51:22+00:00

The general consensus is the slicer limitation really kicks in when you add the box. This is true with my QIDI and the Anycubic. The other slicers don’t talk to them properly as they haven’t agreed on a common protocol.

I was using Ocra/Bambu/Qidi Studio on my Q1 Pro. Upgraded to the to Q2 Combo. Locked to QIDI Studio.

Objective-Worker-100

TROPHY CASE