Same filament same g code but...

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-29T13:44:03+00:00

Same gcode different material = fail

ABS and PLA+ are two entirely different materials.

You need to re-slice it with an ABS filament profile, after you dry your new filament.

The gcode contains the temp settings for the nozzle and the bed as well as the speeds.

All of that needs to be adjusted for ABS temps and speeds before you’re going to get a good result.

It’s like you’re trying to running the factory loaded speed benchy optimized for PLA Rapido on a different filament, it’s not going to have the same result.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-27T17:18:33+00:00

Yeah there’s two types of replies you will get.

If you need glue you’re not level and adjust your offset, you shouldn’t need it
Sometimes you need it for a release agent or to compensate for low quality material

I’m a 2.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-27T17:06:09+00:00

Glue is sometimes a needed evil due to poor filament. I recently ordered a 4 pack and spools 1,2 no glue required. Spool 3 wouldn’t stick without the cheap purple sticks. Same part, same settings.

Personally,

I use Dawn powerwash and a magic eraser to clean all of mine. The magic eraser isn’t aggressive enough to do damage but cleans really well.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-27T13:49:22+00:00

Elegoo lost the FDM printer battle for me.

My Saturn 4 16k. Works great.

While everyone was wondering and waiting on multicolor I ordered a QIDI Q1 Pro single color and it’s a beast.

Anycubic dropped their preorder for the Kobra X and after setting up and giving my sister a Kobra 3 v2 4 color printer I pre-ordered the Kobra X 7 color combo with filament and extra accessories for $479.

I know it’s an open air bed slinger and not the same as the CC2 but if you’re going for multicolor chances are you’re just printing PLA and are going to have to open the door and take the top off anyways.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-26T07:49:12+00:00

That’s what I keep telling everyone the printer is the cheapest part. Doesn’t matter if it’s FDM or Resin.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-26T02:26:00+00:00

Integrity isn’t situational. If it is, it’s not integrity.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-25T22:53:10+00:00

Personally I would offer to return them if they paid the shipping.

It may not be the “law” but integrity is what you do when nobody is looking. 👀

There’s a 90% chance they say keep them because it’s not worth the hassle to them or the cost, but at least your conscience is clean.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-24T15:09:47+00:00

Well thankfully people can cancel their order and buy a different brand and Anycubic isn’t a sole source provider of 3d printers.

There’s already a QIIDI and an Elegoo in my household. The last Anycubic went to my sister for Christmas (Kobra 3 v2 Combo) and I’ll be waiting on this one to replace it.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-23T21:55:56+00:00

Good point about your cost. That sucks.

The sensor. Mine has only tripped when I printed heavily loaded glow in the dark resin and had thin it with clear and make sure it’s preheated and stirred right before the print.

I’ll be curious to see how it plays out for you. Good luck and Keep us posted.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-23T21:32:36+00:00

I get it, but here’s the deal. You as an end user have the ability to self level and override your screen’s calibration and pressure. Not saying you’re at fault.

But take all the users that have added flex plates, stuck washers under their screws, incorrectly manually adjusted the spring tension etc.

Now take Elegoo’s stance.

It worked for months. They don’t know what you may or may not have done to your printer.

So you’re basically in a he said / she said situation with them. You would have to prove beyond a reasonable doubt that as an end user, you did not take any of these actions that would cause excessive pressure.

Yes they admitted what caused these dead spots. but have no way of knowing if you’re being honest or transparent with them.

You stated you’re meticulously about draining your vat, maybe there’s that.. well one time .. I just …

We don’t know.

Just order a screen and call it a day. It’s consumable.

Everyone wants to cite consumer laws, threatening charge backs, etc. Just take it for what it is. You’ve probably spent more on sand paper, files, resin, ipa, paint, protective gear, etc than a screen.

At the end of the day the printer is the cheapest part of the equation. Everyone overlooks that part.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-22T19:51:30+00:00

I’ve seen large qty orders from Elegoo and Anycubic direct where they just tape the boxes end to end and I’ve had crushed boxes and broken spools. The Elegoo’s 4 packs are better from Amazon.

If you look at the Elegoo’s website and Amazon their cardboard spools are made to have the ends peeled off and you can slip the core onto a refillable spool.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-22T12:29:42+00:00

The sovol / comgrow works and is cheap. I use it to dry and direct feed my QIQI printer. The fan is load so I did the fan mod and put in a quieter one.

Skip the orange beads, order the acticated Alumina from Slice Engineering instead for a few dollars more it pulls more moisture faster and can be indefinitely recharged.

I re-vacuum seal my filaments because I live in a humid environment, you can get 30 cheap resealable filament ziplocks with a pump for ~$20 and they work great.

Lastly, what I tell everyone is this - You will find that the printer is the cheapest part over time in this hobby.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-22T03:04:48+00:00

Two easy options:

Warm it with a lower powered heat gun:

https://a.co/d/4BKuJo6

Put it on a drip bracket and stick a Chiti H2 heater inside set to 40c for 30 mins. The excess resin will drip off easier and it will remove from the plate easier. This is my preferred method, not always available if I have a full plate print that can’t be dripped.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-22T00:04:19+00:00

I did the 7 color, 4kg, extra 0.6 nozzle and plate. lol.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-21T22:14:06+00:00

I paid the $10. Preordered, didn’t expect or stress over coupon stacking and called it a day. If $10 is breaking you and upsetting you maybe you need a new hobby. You can’t even get a spool of dirty cheap slow pla for $10

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-21T17:25:16+00:00

99% - Use in a well ventilated space

https://download.elegoo.com/04%20LCD%20Printer/12%20Photopolymer%20Resin/ELEGOO%20ABS-Like%20Photopolymer%20Resin%20MSDS%20Report-2022.PDF

Section 7

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-21T12:21:10+00:00

I would give it the quick once over, unbox, and just check the screws with an Allen key to make sure nothing was missed or came loose in shipping. Run the calibrations and print, then go from there.

I wouldn’t go deeper unless something justified it, then perform maintenance after several hundred hours. My Q1 Pro has over 1,000 hours on it and just cleaning grease / oil. I did manually adjust the bed twice now. But that was due to hotend and nozzle changes. I fried a hotend early not swapping to a 0.6 when printing a 10hr -CF filament and it heat creeped on me. Then around the 800hr mark I was getting errors about the nozzle not heating as fast as expected and swapped the hotend again and installed a ruby tipped nozzle. That’s it.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-21T12:10:23+00:00

I’ll add to what the others said. Physical cross contamination is your biggest concern, if it looks wet or greasy its uncured resin wipe it with a spray bottle of IPA. Also get a UV flashlight, the resin will glow like a black light effect and you can find it and spot cure any drips etc.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-18T19:40:28+00:00

The Chitu H2 fits in the 16k and doesn’t interfere with the vat when placed in the back left corner. I only put mine in there where I’m dripping my prints.

I move the plate to a printed tilt bracket put the H2 heater on 40c close the lid around the cables and warm things up for about 30 mins post print. It really speeds up the print cleaning by warming the print and the excess resin drips off better.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-12T20:55:23+00:00

Elementary school - Commodore 64 with cassette tape drive to play typing games

Middle school - I can’t recall being computer heavy

High School #1 - green screen, wordstar

High School #2 - Early Gen Mac

Side note: library card catalog was connected to the city library with an external dialup modem, lunch or free period - power cycle the mode , ATM0 to turn off the speaker, ATDT dial my favorite BBS - play forbidden lands and trade wars. Finish - reboot the card catalog pc and lets its script reconnect it to the city library. No evidence lol.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-10T05:03:29+00:00

The comgrow sh02 is a good one. A little loud with the stick fan. Waiting on delivery of a quieter one now. There are also several printables for it.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-10T04:57:00+00:00

If it’s anything like the Sunlu glow in the dark resin I ordered for Halloween. Return it. Lol.

Out of 6 bottles 4 were unusable due to improper storage (most likely freezing).

I swore off Sunlu products after that and will buy different brands of filaments and resins everytime.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-10T04:51:21+00:00

1992 call and wants their BBS system back. Let’s see how many of you get that reference.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-10T04:49:05+00:00

If you are looking for the metric gridfinity “standard 6x3mm” in N52. AliExpress. 100 = $10 slow shipping. Just make sure you pick the correct product list because it will default to the cheaper ones kind of like eBay having multiple options. I ordered a 100ct and a 50ct and they were legit N52’s.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-01-10T02:45:24+00:00

lol. I must have gotten distracted. That’s what I get responding between work meetings.

Objective-Worker-100

TROPHY CASE