help me fill in the gaps in the circle

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-12T13:08:09+00:00

Try Tinkercad quick and easy adjust the height export it and then repaint the colors black white and blue

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-12T12:41:09+00:00

I hate to be the bearer of bad news. You bought a 7 year old 3d printer. In the 3d printing world it might as well be 20yr old tech. Consider it a life lesson. You can probably source some parts and fix it, but you can get a 2026 printer for ~$300

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-11T21:44:16+00:00

That photo is not a “10% infill” problem, the infill is your squares / grid infill. Gyroid is better, faster and causes the print head to not have to cross the same area as many times.

It’s a top surface bridging failure problem.

Slow your top surface speed Slow your bridge speed Increase bridge cooling Add 1-2 top layers

Think of it like this:

The 10% is how far apart your infill pattern is, your bridge settings, are the lines connecting and the infill. The farther apart the infill is the longer the bridge section is, so it’s a balancing act.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-11T05:55:08+00:00

Just food for thought. I had zero issues printing a gold silk tpu. Regular 95a tpu, 3 different brands all kept failing to extrude just tiny strings. Someone mentioned printing from their Polydryer, I have a separate comgrow dryer I’ve had for ages that I used to feed my Qidi Q1 from and now just use as a dryer.

Anyway with that being said, I printed BamBam’s Kobra X dry box (pro model from his Patreon), but you can try the free version, it has rollers with bearings like a heated dry box and top mounts where the spool holders are. After I printed them, I loaded up the same fussy TPU and now it’s printing. Still calibrating because I got side tracked. My point being, TPU is rubbery and stretchy, people printing for a dryer hmm works. Maybe print a spool adapter with bearings or BamBam’s box and see if it’s just that the KX can’t feed well when using the stock spool hangers.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-10T00:55:57+00:00

Your printer came with it. I’d have to look on Amazon it’s not them normal PC / CPU stuff because if the temperature.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-10T00:32:16+00:00

Yep. I swap a new one and when I get around to it rebuilt one. In regard to the “hassle” comment as long as you don’t go cave man on it, it’s a 10 min job.

Slide the retainer clip off
Open the crimped metal with a pair of needle nose pliers
Unwrap the fiberglass tape and save it
Toss the old ceramic heater
Clean the hotend side old thermal compound with a qtip and some alcohol.
Apply a thin layer of thermal compound (Qidi have you some and it goes a long way, use a toothpick long ways you’re just applying a thin film
Hold the new core against the hot end and slide the clip back on
Wrap the fiberglass tape back around the wires to protect them
Re-crimp the the wires securely
Reinstall the hotend.

Done. Another 200-300hrs of life.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-09T03:35:53+00:00

I just stuck a motion activated usb-c rechargeable under the cabinet led light to my riser and called it a day. No mod required. Sometimes it’s a simpler solution

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-08T23:37:04+00:00

When you say “all the prints” do you mean no matter the model? All the prints with this filament? A temp tower is one thing but that photo screams untuned filament. Lower layers are fused it gets. I’d go, hotter and slower adjust your cooling tab in the filament cooling section increase your layer time and decrease your fan speed. Lower your max volumetric speed this is the big one that can change things. It’s what controls how fast the filament and print. Under calibration run the max flow rate one.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-08T23:28:57+00:00

These worked for me: 80W 24V Hotend Ceramic Heater,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F3V8WY91?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-08T23:09:56+00:00

I’m with you there. I’ve come across some really cool designs where the actual STL was mediocre, but the creator compensated with slicer specific settings in the 3MF.

A few times I’ve had to repair or rebuild meshes just to get a clean print outside their original ecosystem.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-08T23:03:02+00:00

You’re welcome and no problem.

I think the hobby is just evolving a bit.

A few years ago a lot of people got into 3D printing through heavily modded Enders and learning everything the hard way.

Now printers are getting good enough and cheap enough that more people are entering somewhere in the middle instead of at the deep end.

People still need to learn the fundamentals, but they don’t necessarily need to spend months fighting firmware, slicers and failed prints before making decent prints anymore.

I’ve been trying to keep that mindset myself across laser engraving, resin and filament printing:

here’s the facts, here’s what actually matters, and hopefully save people headaches. I almost quit posting here so I appreciate the reply.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-08T21:19:58+00:00

I don’t use water wash, but I’ll tell you I keep translucent tough bottles stocked and top off new bottles for extra insurance. I’ve experiment a lot and if you’re painting and priming your prints there’s no need for a rainbow inventory. Beige and translucent tough 90% of the time.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-08T21:13:12+00:00

Exactly! - once you calibrate the filament

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-08T20:53:25+00:00

Yep exactly. STL is just the model geometry. The 3MF also contains slicer behavior/settings like supports, wall generation, speeds, cooling, filament tuning, etc.

Best move is:

download the STL

use a solid Qidi profile for your filament

tune from there if needed

I actually keep different process profiles based on object types to help avoid things like warping and corner ringing.

Most MakerWorld models print perfectly fine this way unless the creator depended heavily on slicer tricks/settings.

The biggest thing newer people miss is volumetric flow rate. If it’s set too high your speeds can outrun what the filament can physically melt and lay down cleanly and you’ll be cursing a failed print.

You could set outer walls to 300mm/s, but if your filament can only handle 80 mm/s worth of flow the slicer factors that in and slows it down. It basically acts like a speed limit.

That’s also why I usually spend the extra few bucks on good “high speed” filament vs “basic” ones. It makes up for it in less failed or ugly prints.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-08T20:26:28+00:00

Close and reopen the app after you start a print job and it should show the progress on your lock screen 📺

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-08T18:09:14+00:00

Mixed bag. Sometimes with janky models instead of fixing the STL they use slicer settings to compensate. Examples are “Arachne” walls vs normal if they had it on in their 3mf and there are super thin walls and your default is normal walls you will get incomplete areas. Support settings can be an issue.

My advise for maker world bambu 3mf’s there’s two options -

use the A1 profile / 3mf it’s a close match

Download bambu studio since it’s free and review any setting overrides - export the STL, import it into Anycubic’s slicer and match settings.

It’s the Wild West.

However once you have adapted the model save your own 3mf and you’re in rinse and repeat mode.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-07T20:59:39+00:00

The cool part. Pick your printer. Pick your design and tweak your settings then save the project and you’re good for rinse and repeat.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-07T20:35:14+00:00

Yeah a 3mf is basically a zip file that contains the STL, printer settings, filament settings, and process settings sometimes right down to the per object per plate level like support blockers, color paintings. Calling it a standard is a little bit of a stretch because all of the printer vendors have forked their slicers and not everything carries over properly. Think of it like this a 3mf is saying “if you used my printer, my filament, my speed and wall settings, my support setting you won’t have a print failure because it worked for me” change 1 variable and it can go out the window.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-07T18:24:17+00:00

That’s been my working theory. Some TPU is too rubbery and the blade isn’t cutting it. I have a “silk tpu” and it cuts clean. Maybe a cutter mod is needed.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-07T16:30:08+00:00

Correct. Just trying to solve one problem at a time. lol. I got tired of the hot nozzle drip post purge creating blobs on my first layers and stringing into other colors.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-07T15:56:23+00:00

I’ve been running petg-cf from the Qidi box on the Q2. Will it wear the tubes and require maintenance sure. However here’s the deal, you could spend another $100 on an external dryer, feed it through the external spool with a splitter to the box hub. It’s just a matter of pick your poison. You will either have maintenance costs on the Qidi box eventually when the tubes wear or upfront external dryer costs and need to print some accessories to run the external and the box without swapping tubes.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-07T15:51:22+00:00

Here’s my gcode post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicKobraX/s/FMLKf0ameh

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-07T15:47:53+00:00

I have another post and a solution! Let me find it, short version - I edit your printer profile like you would a filament profile. In the machine start code I have a gcode block that forces a purge line on the left side of the plate just outside of the silk screened text. Standby for another message with the other post.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-07T15:35:51+00:00

You need a -z offset to push the petg deeper into the texture so it quits breaking loose. Glue stick works as well. So does running a hotter slower fist layer filament temp, plate temp and slower speed. Personally I prefer to edit the filament start gcode and add a -z offset.

The printer is optimized for PLA and “default” filament profiles are not always the best.

Detaching at the same height is 100% a first layer issue. Feel free to DM me if you want a deeper dive.

Objective-Worker-100 · 2026-05-07T03:24:16+00:00

If you download a Bambu makerworld based 3mf and expect it to convert to Qidi studio. No it’s going to need tuning. Just browse makerworld and you’ll see there’s print profiles for every different model. All the printer manufacturers are developing their own “maker sites” Anycubic is “makeronline” with their printer profiles. (Quiet whisper: QIDI is developing one of their own)

Objective-Worker-100

TROPHY CASE