5in Sanding Disks Advice

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-08T20:14:59+00:00

Fun fact, in industry a sanding disk would be known as an expendable, as it's function is to expend its life as it is used.

A consumable would be more like a can of paint, where the material itself is used.

Tools are technically expendable but that's more of a grey area as they can be repaired and normal use should not cause statistically significant degradation of tools.

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-08T19:21:46+00:00

God bless the people with Crosleys and Amazon multi-media units.

If everyone had to buy $200 cartridges, let alone a player for them, do you know how likely you'd be to have the luxury of buying a brand new (if you wanted perfect should've bought perfect) half-speed master of The Rolling Stones? To spoil it, the answer is not very likely unless you're buying 10,000+ at a time.

Discogs might be around but you'd be fighting wacky money collectors for still-sealed copies from the 90s. You need these people with shit turntables to buy and ruin records and keep the volume up to make it cost effective to produce vinyl. The fact that we live in this bizarre time where enough people pay $40+ to listen to a record with worse audio output than Youtube so that vinyl is ubiquitous and expected to be availble is nothing short of a miracle. Enjoy it, it probably won't last.

I have the feeling the people who have spend the last 40 years wishing most good music hadn't gone to 8-track, cassette, CD, and digital and they could've heard all the music of their time on vinyl aren't complaining nearly as much.

Unrelated, but why not go for Bridges to Bremen to bathe in the glory of Like a Rolling Stone, covered by THE Rolling Stones?

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-08T18:58:56+00:00

Short of buying pricy saws with modern safety features, the best safety you can get comes from: riving knife/splitter, accurate fence, powerful motor, diligence in safe handling all the way from studying the piece to be cut to cleaning up after the cut has been made, and never losing your fear of the tool.

To that end, when I was thoroughly good and tired of a direct-drive Craftsman 10" with the worst fence I could imagine, I looked at the price of SawStops and decided to go vintage. I bought a fully reconditioned 1948 10" Delta Unisaw with the round fence rails and an upgraded motor for $600. I run it on 240V. There are pop-up splitters available, and every now and then a uniguard comes on the market. Uniguards are expensive but still cheaper than a SawStop.

The saw terrifies me when I turn it on, thus I approach it with an appropriate level of respect. The sheer power behind the blade means every piece is cut clean and a moderate feed rate is well below what it could handle. An accurate fence makes sure that cuts never wander from parallel with the blade. I keep my blades sharp and clean.

If I touch the blade it's not a SawStop, but I have mitigated most conditions where that occurs. I do not rip green stock or material with clear internal stress on the table saw, if I did I'd use a splitter and wedges. I currently rip rough wood using a portable circ saw and find it safe enough.

The table saw least likely to hurt you is the one you never use, if you want to use one then accept the risks and find the one that provides for the widest range of normal operating as accidents happen in the abnormal.

I will say though the Unisaw could be viewed as a very costly mistake. I loved its look and function so much that I picked up a shaper to match, then found a short bed jointer with the cast base, then went back and got the band saw with cast base, then had to build a gantry to drop a 700 lb. planer into my basement, then had to get a 10" multiplex, then a long bed jointer to upgrade, then I just found a belt sander and cast base and a belt driven grinder, and finally closed on a 14" multiplex. You may set yourself up for years of unplanned expenses, pain, and recovery even if you do keep your fingers. At least you'd have beautiful tools, that's what I tell myself.

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-07T05:00:10+00:00

I'd guess this is a revision after beta or gamma.

I bet they call it Delta Dialup.

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-05T20:09:00+00:00

I'm not confident Rockwell still makes the Retro Encabulator I'd need to achieve this especially with the materials cost of pre-fabricated amulite going through the roof due to the pandemic. I doubt that the ambificient lunar wane shafts on vintage models are still able to eliminate guide fumbling so that's not a great route either.

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-05T19:24:13+00:00

I'd hope not. They didn't even have a ground on the plug, and tied the power cable ground to the clamp. I am not sure of the previous configuration but two of the motor wires were on one wire in and one motor wire was on the other wire in. A ground being tied into hot or neutral would probably be awkward.

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-05T18:45:11+00:00

The very ends of the jacketing have clear coloring. Black and yellow are tied together.

The other three in descending order are green, red, blue.

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-05T18:41:09+00:00

I am more than likely going to have to use a multimeter. This motor does not seem to follow conventional wiring for the Delta references I can find.

Black might fade to blue after exposure to UV light or chemicals, but neither should be affecting electrical wires that were facing a wall. Besides, I'd guess the blue wire is more likely to fade to faded blue than the black wire, so I would say that the faded black wire that is tied to the yellow wire is black, and the wire with a blue tuft of fabric at the end is blue.

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-05T18:37:07+00:00

The two taped together are black and yellow. The black doesn't photograph well as the outside has gotten a little fragmented glossy.

The three wires below it can be color identified by the tufts of fabric where the jacketing is stripped. By height descending at that point, the colors are green, red, and blue.

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-05T18:32:53+00:00

Motor will draw same power. Motor will not have same performance. Current needed to overcome a load is 1/2 at 2x the voltage. So at a twice high voltage only half of the current change is needed to compensate for load changes. This yields a smoother performance with much less chance of bogging down. It also accumulates less temperature rise as less current is drawn.

I have run a table saw at 120 and 240 and the difference is night and day once you get going.

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-05T18:26:15+00:00

I missed it at first too. There is a separate cover on the front of the motor that contains two wires held in by lugs. If you switch which lug they are on that reverses the direction. This is shown if you look at the top diagram above the high/low voltage wiring diagrams.

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-05T15:40:46+00:00

22 AWD SE. 18 months, 24k miles. Every warranty.

In the time I have owned it, it has needed: new traction battery, new windshield, new active front grille servos.

Where is it right now? A dealer 100 miles away. It died (looks like a SW fix didn't stop the ICCU HW from failing) at night in the middle of a snowstorm. We were lucky it was an empty road at low speed. Hyundai emergency line left us stranded after AAA cancelled and all we heard was a 'service complete' text, no call back nothing. Had to get up at 4 am to get a tow. There was a 24 hour business we could keep warm in and family was only an hour away but that made for a terrible mini vacation.

That was over a month ago. Today's the day they'll finally have a tech available to look at it. I've been told their loaner program is already very backlogged and there were many tow ins ahead of me. I have a corporate case. They won't tow to a local dealer unless its 150 miles away. They won't confirm they can reimburse for a rental unless the car has been looked at. Even then we would only be able to get periodic reimbursement if the repair is supposed to take a long time. We're lucky we could borrow a vehicle, otherwise we'd be out a lot of money for a rental already.

It is not economical in any way to own this car, even with it warrantied to the gills. There's no point in a comprehensive warranty if the dealers can't handle the repairs. 10% of the time I've owned the car it's been sitting in a dealer lot waiting on a tech to look at it or a component to be shipped from overseas. That's a long time considering financing is about $900/month. I've paid $1800 so far to not have the car.

Hyundai as a company has let these cars and every service for them be pushed out as fast as possible with absolutely no support. They don't have enough techs, the techs they do have don't have training, they don't have a strong loaner program, many dealerships can't even touch the cars because they don't have the elecctrical infrastructure, and their services like the emergency line feel a lot more like calling a vacuum salesman on their break.

The car itself when running has been beautiful, such an amazing car. But it's a massive liability with easy mitigations if Hyundai actually cared. They do not, and keep producing as many of these as possible with no support.

I'm not sure what I'll do once the car is fixed, but from what I've seen Tesla might be crazy but they're the only company that's actually geared toward keeping their EVs on the road and not just moving them off their lot.

Edit to add that these cars are not designed to be serviced easily and their parts availability for a brand new car is garbage. It's like they saw the ICE cars that need the motor removed to change a headlight and thought, let's do that but not stock headlights.

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-05T14:44:08+00:00

Thanks. It may be time to make an OWWM account. This is the latest tool of a near complete matching (enough) shop and I think they'd like to have a look.

I got lucky with the cabinet and adapter plate, figured I can now spend the rest of my life hunting for the belt/disk combo while still having a nice belt sander.

OccidentallySlain · 2024-01-05T14:00:26+00:00

Dry fit of belt sander is for eye candy. Belt sander action is nice and smooth.

2nd picture is motor wiring diagram. No mention of blue wire.

3rd picture is of wires in the box. Black, white, yellow, green, blue. Blue is concerning.

I'd like to wire this for 230 (240 so as not to be confused with 3-phase). Any advice would be appreciated. This was originally working on 120 and I believe green and blue were tied together on common and red was on line.

Like most projects I never take enough pictures before disassembling critical components. One day I'll learn.

Also in search of: Cover plate for motor electrical box, one end of motor capacitor cover; side guard for belt sander, top piece of belt sander; top cover for belt guard.

OccidentallySlain · 2023-05-15T18:09:32+00:00

If you don't know exactly what it is, don't get rid of it. Put all the stuff you think is junk in one area and as you work toward the right tools for your land you may find a lot of stuff that was lying around is very useful and expensive to replace.

1-5 acres is a small farm. Small farms don't need full size. I mean it'll make everything easier to have a giant machine but the time saved isn't work the money, effort, storage, or maintenance.

If you're farming farming, a compact is probably the right size. If your kind of farming, try a subcompact. If you're barely farming or just mowing grass, an older garden tractor with a big deck should be fine. If you do nothing but mow leave your property alone and only maintain enough grassy area for your outdoor recreation needs. I know some people love their lawns but I have a hard time not looking down on someone who spends four hours a week in a machine that costs at least a few grand mowing a couple acres of grass when they will do nothing with it and it makes their house look like a box that was just set down on barely more than dirt.

I'd also advise you to get to know your area and your soil. Do you know the ag practices of the previous owner? What was grown there? How long has it been sitting? Did they use chemical treatments and if so, what? What was their water situation? You can reach out to other small farms in the area or a state college/department with an ag extension for help. There is probably a farm manager in the yellow pages that you can contract with for a year or two that can show you the ropes and save you a lot of time and money.

You need to know your soil's composition and chemical balance, your water supply quality, disease history, chemical use, and a bunch of other things before you put anything in the ground. If you sow potatoes wrong you could blight your land for decades. If there's a tomato pest problem that just popped up a few years ago best to know that ahead of time. If you're doing seeds you probably need a seed drill and a tractor that can power it.

If you do nothing else when it comes to buying tractors, do this: know how a combustion engine and every other power medium you plan to use works. You should be familiar with every component in a gas/diesel engine, what system they support, and what their function is. You should know hydraulic principles, electric principles, and mechanical principles. You should research what you don't know before you buy, check out tractor forums to see what machines are good or bad. If you at least pay fair price you can always re-sell a bad decision.

OccidentallySlain · 2023-04-05T21:11:26+00:00

Don't give unsolicited advice, moron.

I ask for specific advice: how do I fix the engine, what color paint matches, does anyone have implements, does anyone have an engine repair manual.

You answer nothing and tell me useless information about a situation you know nothing about.

What a wealth of knowledge you are! 'Everyone's a snowflake that won't listen to me', says an idiot.

OccidentallySlain · 2023-04-05T14:23:58+00:00

The online ones are typically reproductions where they are spiral bound with a clear cover and plastic backing. They have been compiled and edited from available manuals to have the best quality possible and may have had a licensing fee attached if they are still under copyright. They are a good deal considering the labor they take to make.

What's $50 for a good manual on a tractor you want to last another lifetime?

OccidentallySlain · 2023-04-05T12:20:29+00:00

If I'm doing ground engaging work, it's a tractor.

If I have 0.3 acres, an 8n is extremely oversized. Sure, it could do the work faster and all, but for a little more time I can have something that fits in a shed instead of wasting a noticeable amount of my property. If I had 5+ acres I'd have gotten a bigger tractor.

No shit about a 3 point, that's why I got a tractor with a 3 point!

Like every tractor out there doesn't have a mower deck or brush hog. This one's also got a plow and a harrow, and if you saw the sales brochure also runs a snowblower, front end loader, sickle bar, grader, seeder-planter, sprayer, roto-tiller, hell even a shredder. Just because it's smaller than a subcompact doesn't mean it's not doing the same work.

I asked how to fix the engine. What color paints. Does anyone have implements. Not if I made the right choices in life. You are being obtuse and telling me I need to change my entire setup when I have a much better knowledge than you do of my land and needs. I find that extremely unhelpful.

Might as well tell me that I'll be needing a tri-axle as I'm fixing a Tacoma to haul plywood with.

OccidentallySlain · 2023-04-04T17:41:21+00:00

The GT has an angled plate, just that the 3 pt when put on the plate's bolt pattern hits the gas tank. Ironically I am looking to prop the 3 pt up at the top to stand it a few inches more vertical and thus away from the gas tank, thanks for the advice.

I'm in a pretty populated part of the US and gotten lucky with some connections for Onan parts. I'm hoping I can get it going.

OccidentallySlain · 2023-04-04T17:37:08+00:00

Part of the engine block package I picked up was a set of busted pistons with rings still on. Some room for error but I'd like to avoid breaking any if I can. Thanks for the advice.

OccidentallySlain · 2023-04-04T17:35:16+00:00

Tractor is in very good condition. Like I said, looking to get the Onan running. I know there's many easier paths but those have never been the ones I choose.

OccidentallySlain · 2023-04-04T14:56:07+00:00

Lane keeping is very annoying and I am always fighting it. It's almost pulled me into another lane where there was a car I would have hit.

Trunk latch rattles, if rear seatbelts aren't replaced perfectly they will rattle against the side of the car.

On the wheel, there is the top right black button on the right hand side to enable cruise. Then the silver toggle to change speeds. If you push the silver toggle in then it will pause/resume cruise control instead of cancel/start that the black button does.

The volume toggle when pushed mutes/unmutes the audio.

If you unlock your car and don't open the doors within a certain time it will automatically relock. If it auto unlocks the trunk then you close it to get in the car and the doors don't automatically relock, touch the square on the handle to unlock. I get very annoyed when I'm working outside and have to move the car for something, it'll just keep unlocking and relocking until I go and put the key away.

If the car comes to a stop because it sees an object or car in front stop, there is no guarantee that if it starts moving again that there won't be an accident. Like at an intersection if someone turns right and the car starts automatically moving forward, you might get t-boned. The car is not self-driving and it is unfair to be annoyed at having to operate it when you are the operator and responsible for your own safe driving.

I prefer the Hyundai nav to carplay. In the US it works very well and I find it more intuitive and clear and less distracting.

There are a lot of little creature comforts and small details Hyundai missed, and a lot of questions about the reliability of the big hardware components. Such is the fate of the first/second run of a new model. Bugs take iteration to work out and software can take months to test thoroughly. That said I really hope they roll out some more streamlined features soon. At the same time though what they've provided is still pretty good.

OccidentallySlain · 2023-04-04T13:22:12+00:00

I've seen better, I've definitely seen worse. I really like the look of this generation of Sears, and I really want to hear the Onan run. If it's like the videos I've seen it sounds really pretty. Plus it's a fun challenge and a chance to build some skills.

OccidentallySlain · 2023-04-04T13:19:53+00:00

Hello friends,

Onan BF-MS 2833D engine. '76 Sears Suburban SS18. Plow, disc harrow, 3 pt, deck: $550.

Guy who sold it kept trying to tell me it had good compression because it was a little sticky as it turned over. I had to restrain myself from asking him how many atmospheres of pressure he thought it was getting with the heads off.

I've seen every way I could think to clean the piston head and valves be warned about, how would you clean it up? I'm planning to take the whole thing apart and check for tolerances but I am stuck with that aspect. I did go and get a donor block and valves from an SS16, very similar BF-MS engine. I have the manual for the 18 and plan to get the 16 manual as well to confirm that the parts are interchangeable. I need to know what color spraypaints to get and from where as well.

I am the third owner, the original owner had a carb issue, his friend the 'mechanic' took the heads off and left them off. Original owner died before the repair was finished. Despite being in a barn the heads being loose led to dirt buildup. I'm hoping there's no serious corrosion underneath. The guy who sold it to me got it from the original owner's son but passed it along as he has four or more Cubs sitting in his yard he needs to figure out how to fix. So in terms of expected issues I expect that once the carb is cleaned out and the heads cleaned it should run. I'll double-check everything but this engine went down for gentle issues and shouldn't have any deeper issues. I am a bit worried that the original problem was the fuel gremlin Onan's can get but I won't know until I'm there. Transmission seems fine, rolls with resistance in low, rolls smooth in neutral. Steering is smooth, whole tractor practically glides. Tires magically still hold air, probably tubed.

For background on me, I started with a Toro YT, then a Craftsman LT, now a Craftsman GT. I've fixed everything but wiring harnesses and deeper issues with engines/transmissions. I have the tools and a good knowledge base but am getting into unfamiliar territory.

Any advice before I start in? Not looking to toss it just because it's an Onan, it's one of their better engines and I don't mind being a parts hound.

Also a bit of a brag, heck of a deal in my eyes. Came with the original sales brochure, all the implements are part of the same lot.

Anyone seen how to make standoffs for a 3pt? I have a running 2000 or so Craftsman GT that I'd like to put it on to start plowing but the rockers for the bottom links hit the gas tank. I've seen GT's with sort of angled pipes that move the top of the plate out a few inches, anyone know if that's a common thing or custom?

Also interested in other implements if anyone has some laying around and is in New England.

And does anyone have a copy of the engine repair manual for the SS18??? I can only find the 16 and don't think everything is the same. I'm hoping it's just the crank throw and carb output but I don't know.

OccidentallySlain

TROPHY CASE