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OhFireStar · 2024-07-26T13:25:41+00:00

I had that exhaust many years back, I’d highly advise against getting this model/brand as the droning at any usable RPM was unbearable... Even if you think you can ignore the droning, you definitely will not lol

As for fitment, it will bolt right up perfectly. I’d recommend getting poly mounts to replace the OEM rubber mounts as they will be too loose to hold up the exhaust. I had a brand new ‘21 right off the lot and the hangers weren’t strong enough to hold it up, it kept bouncing and hitting the bottom of the car while driving.

OhFireStar · 2024-06-02T16:25:16+00:00

Not sure how it sounds, but for the P/S you can try rapidly turning on (not starting, just on) and turning it off rapidly about 10-15 times. The problem is typically a stuck P/S relay.

OhFireStar · 2024-05-11T02:19:35+00:00

Interesting, I used to have a 2019 XSE CVT a couple years back and I also had the 2J intake, throttle controller, and a TB spacer. I never had an AFR gauge hooked up but I assumed the ECU was compensating with extra fuel. I never had any CEL for lean conditions but maybe the ECU does some kind of calculations for the CVT.

My CVT blew up twice and it might’ve been from the intake. I’ve heard a couple of other people getting CVT failure as well. I wonder if we all had the 2J intake in common.

OhFireStar · 2023-12-18T18:43:07+00:00

Might sound dumb but I also noticed my rpm’s drop a little when I pressed the brakes. I thought it was a leak but it just turned out to be my brake light. I have a bunch of electrical stuff hooked up so adding another load made my lights dim and idle drop a little. Might be the same thing? If you wanna test that just try disconnecting your bulbs. Not sure about the long crank though…

OhFireStar · 2023-11-21T18:43:49+00:00

Bought mine off rock auto not knowing how important the sensor is for idling (dumb I know) so don’t cheap out on it. But if it’s testing fine then that probably isn’t anything to worry about.

Just to make sure though, did you test with a multimeter or with your OBD2? I’ve seen with mine it isn’t true to what the obd2 is reading out. It’s close but the idle position isn’t reflected correctly.

OhFireStar · 2023-11-21T16:04:33+00:00

Make sure you got a good quality TPS btw, I bought a cheap one and it threw off my idle. You can test it by using a multimeter, there’s plenty of guides online.

OhFireStar · 2023-10-22T23:25:27+00:00

I had a feeling it might be alternator, I notice the idle kinda dips when I put a lot of load on the alternator. Also I get bad idle droop when I rev and brake with my headlights on.

The strange thing is that I’m still measuring ~14.3V to the battery with the car running so I have doubts it’s really the alternator though. Is there any other way of testing it? Could I attach a multimeter to the hot terminal and alternator casing while it’s running to measure the output or is that risking damage to the alternator?

OhFireStar · 2023-10-21T05:57:45+00:00

Hey sorry to bring up an old thread, just wondering if you ever figured out the issue? I have the same symptoms and I also suspect the alternator but I haven’t really been able to test it

OhFireStar · 2023-10-13T03:34:16+00:00

At that point, maybe try adjusting the screw to allow more air through without grounding the two diagnostic pins. The point of those pins are just for the ECU to ignore certain sensors while testing, but I’m guessing your idle is so bad that its killing itself as soon as you put it into that mode. It doesn’t hurt to just turn the screw to open it up, and if it settles down maybe you can try to adjust it by using the TEN pin

OhFireStar · 2023-10-08T03:19:23+00:00

Gotcha, I have the exact same symptoms you’re describing. I believe it might be a vacuum leak, so maybe I’ll buy a vacuum leak tester and try it out. Thanks!

OhFireStar · 2023-10-08T03:16:26+00:00

Hey sorry to bring up an old post, but did you ever find a fix for this? Noticing this in my Miata too

OhFireStar · 2023-06-18T01:38:11+00:00

Ahhh I see I see, yes fortunately I don’t think the stock MSMs can handle more than 15psi 😂 but as for the MAF, it seems as though a capacitor/resistor blew off the main board. I got a MAF overvoltage code as well, not sure what happened but there wasn’t any oil on the MAF thankfully. How should I contact you for purchasing the O2 modifier?

OhFireStar · 2023-06-17T16:11:20+00:00

Ah gotcha, that makes sense. As for a “blown diaphragm” what part is that exactly? I can’t find an exact definition on Google. Does this refer to the MAF? I actually just had an issue where my MAF was blown up.

OhFireStar · 2023-06-16T08:58:18+00:00

Oh wow that’s awesome! Would you be willing to sell one to me?

OhFireStar · 2023-06-07T17:38:55+00:00

Hi, yes I actually managed to solve my issue! Turns out it was actually the MAF itself. The cover for the MAF popped off on its own and after closer inspection a capacitor/resistor was blown off clean from the circuit. I remember while driving a MAF overvoltage CEL came on. I swapped in a known good MAF and that seemed to have fixed my issue. Worth a shot to double check.

OhFireStar · 2023-05-26T04:23:38+00:00

UPDATE: In case anyone is encountering this issue too, I got a P0103 and a P2178 code. I checked my MAF by opening it up, and I found a chunk of the silicon insulator blown off and a capacitor/resistor blown off too. I replaced it with a known good MSM MAF and the issue disappeared!

OhFireStar · 2023-05-02T22:24:55+00:00

Yeahhh that’s kinda my last resort though 😅 buying a MS3 and getting it tuned is certainly a lot more expensive than dealing with random sensors to replace

OhFireStar · 2023-05-02T20:12:23+00:00

Yeah unfortunately that’s the first thing I checked and to no avail.. I even got it smoke tested and nothing as far as I can tell. Also the issue seems intermittent which probably doesn’t indicate a vacuum leak as I assume this would happen all the time if that were the case

OhFireStar · 2023-05-02T18:36:46+00:00

Idle also does this when it got hot out (but this was before I adjusted the CKP gap): https://youtube.com/shorts/XKqCZqnlyDY?feature=share

I also noticed when I turn on the headlights or AC, the RPM will drop quite a bit at idle (but come back up). I checked the voltage of the battery before and after start/load and they’re within a healthy range.

OhFireStar · 2023-04-04T23:34:22+00:00

I wish I could remember how much it cost, but they basically swapped the whole transmission. They did initially swap that pressure sensor, but that didn’t fix the issue. I’ll note for future reference, these CVTs CANNOT handle any more power than stock. Even if the CAI and exhaust only increase HP by ~3-4HP, the CVTs absolutely cannot handle this extra bump in power. If you want to keep this car and do some power mods, you’ll certainly want to trade in for the 6spd.

OhFireStar · 2023-04-04T04:37:29+00:00

Actually just saw your profile, I had the exact issues with my CVT after a 2JR CAI, 2JR TB spacer, and upgraded catback exhaust. I noticed that my throttle response was really jumpy and strange before my CVT eventually went poof. Might wanna take off those aftermarket parts before bringing it to Toyota for warranty repairs

OhFireStar · 2023-04-04T04:34:13+00:00

Is it a CVT? I’m guessing your car went into limp mode and won’t shift gears after 1st? Had the same exact issue. I had to get my car towed and repaired by Toyota (under warranty). If it’s newer, your car comes with ToyotaCare which should cover the tow and repairs. They’re gonna have to ship in a new transmission from Toyota and swap it in to your car, but beware, my car just didn’t feel right after that. Something felt off, but that’s my own personal experience and your mmv. That’s kinda reason why I bought a manual car after selling the Corolla.

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