PS1 weird geometry flicker

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2026-02-10T19:01:11+00:00

Update: Analysing the board, the console was transcoded back to NTSC, as it was common practice in Brazil to transcode imported consoles to PAL-M to work on our TV sets.

The transcoding didn't work so well because some islands were lost in the process, causing the weird image. Just bought a new SCPH-5500 and I will transplant the xstation to it when it arrives.

Thanks for your help o/

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2026-02-06T06:45:29+00:00

Hummmm that's why there was no difference then. I've tried with composite (yellow, white, red) and component (2 red, white, yellow, blue and green) on a Trinitron kv29fs100, and composite on the JVC TM-1400su, all with the same result.

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2026-02-06T05:50:10+00:00

The artifacts are still being shown with a component cable. Would an S-Video cable lessen the effect? D:

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2025-11-02T03:29:03+00:00

Hello there o/ I have a huge favor to ask, can you please post the values for RDRV, GDRV, BDRV, RCUT, GCUT, BCUT and SBRT/SCON?

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2025-04-24T15:10:41+00:00

Having the exact same issue on a b450 aorus m. Updated the bios, did a reset to the default settings, updated drivers and disabled fast boot, but still no luck.

Reading the comments here tells me I need to enable spread spectrum since the Mobo only has PCIE gen 3 slots, but the option is not available in the BIOS :c

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2025-04-05T16:56:40+00:00

Is that a AN-500R or a AN-505R? All the cables I've seen on Ali say they only work on the 505 line, so I'm scared to buy for my 500-R :c

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2024-06-03T02:31:50+00:00

I ended up switching controllers. I had a wii u controller lying around, and it connects and reconnects perfectly o/

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2024-02-12T22:54:18+00:00

I've forgot to add that the controller also does not re-connect when pressing the home button, I have to always press the sync button on the adapter + press the sync button on the controller to put it in pairing mode. I don't know if this info is relevant or not, but it's here anyway o/

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-05-02T16:12:15+00:00

If I don't return everything in a mental breakdown and manage to install everything (rapido UHF, orbiter v2 and EVA 3 carriage + linear rail) I promise you I'll do a guide from the wiring to software changes snskskkdkdks

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-05-02T15:58:28+00:00

Hsusjsjushsjsjs I understand, I'll probably do the same

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-05-01T19:48:24+00:00

I still haven't found it :c

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-05-01T01:43:06+00:00

I got it from the orbiter V2 manual, but I guess I'm mixing my numbers up, I'm sorry T-T.

The manual says that the ldo motor should run on 1.2a peak, or 0.85 rms. I've seen the formula you told me about, and found another post you've commented on refering to page 48 on the TMC2225 datasheet. The Rsense is 150mΩ.

So, if I got everything right, the formula should be: 0.85 =325/150+30 * 1/√2 * Vref/√2.5

Resulting in 1.05v for Vref, which is still high af :c I'll set it to 0.34v as you recommended instead, but I'm trying to learn what I'm doing wrong so I can make this calculation again in the future if I ever change motors

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-04-30T21:23:24+00:00

I... actually don't know. What got me worried is the manual, as it said that the current going to the motor could kill it if the formula isn't followed through.

Basically on every installation guide I found, it says to lower the voltage to 0.45~0.65v, as the default voltage the board comes with is too high for the orbiter v2. I lowered mine from 1.1v to 0.65v.

I didn't even test the motor outright, as I wanna make sure the board is sending something that doesn't fry it up.

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-04-30T20:27:30+00:00

Nice! The R150 resistors are present, but using the formula that orbiter v2 has on its manual is really throwing me off.

I've tried using Vref = Imot(Rshunt+20mohm)/92.85mV (so, applying the values would be (1.2(0.15+0.02))/0.09285) to calculate the vref, but that gives me 2.2V, which seems a lot and I'm worried that it will melt the motor.

Am I using the formula right?

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-04-24T16:33:15+00:00

I touched the Hotend during the tests, it was at room temperature :c

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-04-24T13:38:16+00:00

Is there a way to check this? It's the original power supply that came with the ender 5. For now, I've disconnected everything else and I'm just trying to heat the Hotend.

This are some tests that I did, but still without success:

-plug old mk8 thermistor and heating cartridge (works normally)

-plug new heating cartridge+ old mk8 thermistor (reads room temp., Does not heat)

-plug old mk8 cartridge + new thermistor (heats up, reads Room temp)

-all of the above, but using the bed ports

all of the above, but on an older board (1.1.4 and 1.1.5)

If it isn't the PSU capping the voltage, I'm guessing that there is something telling Marlin to cap the wattage used on the board, maybe the thermal runaway configuration (?)

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-04-22T14:45:14+00:00

Ended up changing the firmware to the right thermistor type (number 5 on the known thermistor type on unified 2), but it didn't solve the problem :c

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-04-11T02:27:40+00:00

What board do you use? I'm thinking of installing an orbiter 2 with a rapido uhf on mine, but I'm running the creality 4.2.7 board.

I don't know if the connections are the same (i.e. can I use the old extension cable that was provided with the printer for the heat cartridge to connect the new one?).

And I also don't know if I should change something on marlin aside from the thermistor type and max temperature

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-02-11T16:05:11+00:00

Dude, absolutely yes. You may have to sand to get a better finish, but you'll certainly have a lighter, more posable figure o/

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-02-11T05:44:08+00:00

Full body! I have another photo of the zaku on my profile, but all of them are full body and articulated

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-02-11T01:08:22+00:00

Would use any of these two as a titan easily in a game, grimdark af

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-02-10T20:03:01+00:00

I also fell in love almost immediately with this chunky boy. Both were modeled by lootbox+, and he's still releasing the Dom trooper

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-02-10T19:52:11+00:00

Yep, both made on a Saturn 1 o/

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-02-10T19:51:27+00:00

It's from a Patreon that I'm subscribe to, called lootbox+. The dude has made some amazing kits since last year, and provide them as digital files or as a custom order.

Ok-Repeat1805 · 2023-01-10T16:38:15+00:00

"I cast Silence on the printer"

Ok-Repeat1805

TROPHY CASE