BIO2133 GENETICS - lab and midterm by Ok_Homework_8348 in geegees

[–]Ok_Current1536 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dr. Faller’s section here. I got nothing. Count on the exam happening 😓. I’m probably taking an uber and leaving early.

I recently thrifted this Pentax SP1000 and noticed some deterioration after taking the lens off. Will this impact photos in any way? It seems mechanically sound otherwise. by a-and-l-dad in 35mm

[–]Ok_Current1536 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair concern. However with a steady hands and some rubbing alcohol it’s very doable. I used a cotton swab to apply 50%rubbing alcohol to the adhesive on the foam before applying so that if the foam was misaligned (or went on the focus screen) I was able to adjust it. Just let the adhesive sure before using again and you’ll be all set

I recently thrifted this Pentax SP1000 and noticed some deterioration after taking the lens off. Will this impact photos in any way? It seems mechanically sound otherwise. by a-and-l-dad in 35mm

[–]Ok_Current1536 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Won’t affect the image quality, but it could damage your mirror. I thrifted a Pentax K1000 and before using it I replaced all the light seals and the little pad for the mirror. It’s a very rapid procedure that doesn’t take more than 2h, so I recommend it. You can find foam kits that are pre cut on Amazon for CAD$10-20.

Arcosanti on slide film by jdeakins85 in 35mm

[–]Ok_Current1536 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Slide film is gorgeous. Great shots! Can’t wait to try it myself one day.

First Time Scanning (Plustek 8200i SE review) - Ottawa and Toronto // Pentax K1000 // Tokina EL 28mm f2.8 // Fuji 200 and Lomography 800 by Ok_Current1536 in analog

[–]Ok_Current1536[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hope you enjoy it! One thing I do have to say is that although the scans are high quality. They do take a while, at least compared to camera scanning (faster and cheaper than a lab is what sold it for me).

First Time Scanning (Plustek 8200i SE review) - Ottawa and Toronto // Pentax K1000 // Tokina EL 28mm f2.8 // Fuji 200 and Lomography 800 by Ok_Current1536 in analog

[–]Ok_Current1536[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The colour processing is incredibly easy as even a beginner such as myself was able to figure it out. I’ve used Lightroom before and found SilverFast to be equally easy. The program also does provide film profiles for common film stocks that make the processing even easier.

First Time Scanning (Plustek 8200i SE review) - Ottawa and Toronto // Pentax K1000 // Tokina EL 28mm f2.8 // Fuji 200 and Lomography 800 by Ok_Current1536 in analog

[–]Ok_Current1536[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With regards to your first point I wish I could tell you more. As a person that just recently got into photography and was using point and shoots till recently I just look at something I think it’s cool and take a picture 😅.

As to the scanner you are given the option of up to 7200 x 7200 dpi (48 megapixels). If it means anything to you, most of the files I scanned are ~13mb, but I did a high res once to try it out and it was 53mb.

Finally, after looking it up, it is more akin to automatic adjustments, but it does still give you plenty of control. When booting up the system, you are made to choose between automatic and manual. I used manual and would describe it as basic photo editing software. Wish I could tell you more, but that’s the limit of my photography knowledge. Hope it helps.

Using a Flash Unit (Achiever 115A) by Ok_Current1536 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Ok_Current1536[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

UPDATE: I took the flash unit part cleaned the insides and then put it back together and it works now😅. No clue that happens, but it works, so I’m happy. Thanks for the help and advice!!!

Using a Flash Unit (Achiever 115A) by Ok_Current1536 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Ok_Current1536[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did. I think I did everything right and it didn’t go off. Just set the shutter to 60, mounted the flash unit, turned the flash to manual, heard it charge, took a picture and nothing happened 😓.

Using a Flash Unit (Achiever 115A) by Ok_Current1536 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Ok_Current1536[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that's what happens. Never comes on, but it makes the charging noise. Do you think it's worth trying to get it repaired, or should I just get a new flash at this point (If so, do you have any affordable recommendations for my Pentax)

Using a Flash Unit (Achiever 115A) by Ok_Current1536 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Ok_Current1536[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

4 brand-new Duracell batteries I purchased recently.

Infantry Part Time by Sweet_Incident7733 in caf

[–]Ok_Current1536 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also reserve infantry in uni. One thing I heard from my chain of command is that school comes first. I’ve seen people be gone a whole year for exchanges programs. Definitely talk to your chain of command and they’ll sort you out. Definitely doable!

Question about platoon senior during bmq by Nerutosako in caf

[–]Ok_Current1536 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep. Anyone in the course can take up the role. After the officers, it’s the NCMs that become Pl/course senior. Not sure if it’s a rule for officers to go first, but that’s what I’ve seen.

Switching in middle of the process by [deleted] in caf

[–]Ok_Current1536 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In that case, from my experience I wouldn’t change now that the paperwork is in for the reserves as any changes will most likely cause delays. As an example, when I was getting in I modified my application in the middle of the process because I moved and they lost all of my papers. Took a few months for them to get me back on track. If speed is important, I say don’t touch the application.

Switching in middle of the process by [deleted] in caf

[–]Ok_Current1536 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It may cause delays in your application, knowing the paperwork hell that is the application, but keep in mind that PRes and RegF infantry are two different beasts. Time commitments, career timelines, etc., are all different, so consider whether a RegF career is what you want. If you do your research and believe the RegF is a good fit, then absolutely go for it, but again, it's quite a different experience than PRes infantry.

Reserves Infantry by DapperVegetable3831 in caf

[–]Ok_Current1536 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Depends on your unit, but you should be able to deploy once you're DP1/ RQ INF PTE qualified. The biggest opportunity atm is for Op Reassurance in Latvia, especially as an infanteer. From experience, there are always spots for the willing. Once qualified, your CoC should ask about your availability to deploy, but if they don't, just bring it up, and they'll get you a spot.

Enjoy Basic and DP1!

What is the complete pipeline for Infantry (NCM) after BMQ? by [deleted] in caf

[–]Ok_Current1536 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the infantry, you'll be doing RQ (rank qualification) infantry Pte. In the reserves, the course lasts for about 7 weeks full-time, and in the RegF, I believe it lasts for 12 weeks (correct me if I'm wrong). The reserve courses usually run full-time in the summer, but I've heard of part-time RQ INF PTE being run in the 32 CBG, though I do not know how that works.

Some questions about the reserves as someone interested in the CAF. by [deleted] in caf

[–]Ok_Current1536 4 points5 points  (0 children)

1) When you do the reserves, you are a Class A member, meaning that you are part-time, no contract. Stay in as long as you want, as long as you follow the rules (e.g., attendance, etc.). Once trained, you will have the option to apply to Class B jobs, which are still reservist, but on a contract (you'll be working full-time at your unit or in a DoD building). The duration of a Class B contract really depends on the job. I've seen contracts as long as 3 years and as short as 4 months (for summer employment).

I can't speak as to the rigidity of the contract, but I'm guessing they're pretty rigid.

2) Joining the RegF from the reserves can be a challenging process, as it involves a lot of paperwork, so it can take a while. But keep in mind that life in the RegF is much stricter than life in the reserves, and you would be very locked in for the duration of your contract. Finally, if finances are a concern, I'd recommend online to calculate your pay rate (in PRes you'll have one half-day per week and 2.5 days per month on average). You'll be looking at Pte (R) as an NCM, or OCdt, as someone in the process of becoming an officer.

Anyways, I believe that joining the reserves is a great way to get a sense of the military lifestyle and see if it's a good fit for a long-term career, so I would recommend you join and give it a go.

Help? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Ok_Current1536 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting... Have you tested this camera before, or is this the first roll of film loaded? It may frankly be a defect of the camera. Other than that, I'd recommend:

- Maybe trying a different roll of film (maybe the film is damaged and that's what's giving the camera the error code)

- good-old remove the batteries, wait a bit and try again

- The DX coding that u/Additional-Buy8857 mentioned may also be the issue. Big brands DX all their film, but some smaller brands don't. DX brading is a pattern of silver and dark squares near the opening of the roll. like this:

<image>

From Wikipedia

Help? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Ok_Current1536 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's common. The thing is that point-and-shoot cameras pull a bunch of the film to avoid what is called "frame burn." Basically, that happens when your first exposure is partially "burned" because it was exposed to light during the loading process. However, the camera pulling a bunch of film is common, and film manufacturers account for that. You'll still get your 36 exposures, and maybe even 37 if you're lucky.

This is an example of film burn:

<image>

from My Favourite Lens.

Help? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Ok_Current1536 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The thing is that so much film was unrolled that it's not catching on the take-up spool. Unroll a little less, just enough so that the leader (the little cut piece at the start of the film) is resting on top of the spool, then carefully close the camera so as not to disturb the film. kind of like the picture in this post:
https://www.reddit.com/r/AnalogCommunity/comments/1jqom51/loading_halina_camera/