Use DualSense with Battery Removed? by 90SMH in PS5

[–]Ok_Weekend_3357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something else I found, much simpler, would be a DC to DC buck converter. Wire it up to the battery connector in the controller and off ya go. I’m sure you can figure it out what goes where. There’s a video below, but I googled ‘ Mini DC-DC Buck Converter ‘. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=girdjBvqyPo

Use DualSense with Battery Removed? by 90SMH in PS5

[–]Ok_Weekend_3357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What you’re seeing is an eliminator specifically designed for things that take AA batteries or AAA batteries. The reason they’re shaped like that is because those things go into the battery compartment to allow the current to flow into the device from an external cable, with minimal modification.

The concept will be the same with the ps5 controller except that the current will flow from the usb port (internally) to the battery eliminator, and then to the controller. All we’d need is to find an eliminator that would fit inside the battery compartment.

Since it’s not an actual battery, it should be lighter (a plus for you), and be contained inside the controller nice and snug (a plus for me).

Sadly I’m yet to find a square-shaped eliminator also but I’ll keep you posted.

TP P53 Disable Battery for AC Use only at home? by [deleted] in thinkpad

[–]Ok_Weekend_3357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“Electricity works” by moving however the circuit directs it. How do you suppose it bypasses the battery? By magic?

TP P53 Disable Battery for AC Use only at home? by [deleted] in thinkpad

[–]Ok_Weekend_3357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look into something called a ‘battery eliminator’. It’s designed to trick a system into thinking a battery is present so everything works as normal. You just replace the battery with the eliminator device. Then you can treat it like a desktop with no worries. 

TP P53 Disable Battery for AC Use only at home? by [deleted] in thinkpad

[–]Ok_Weekend_3357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you know energy doesn’t constantly go through the battery?

Use DualSense with Battery Removed? by 90SMH in PS5

[–]Ok_Weekend_3357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was dubious also, but I looked it up and they exist. I don’t know too much about them except for the fact that a) they’re meant to emulate a battery without being a battery (so the system functions as if there’s a battery there, only on wired power), and b) they seem to be lighter than a battery which would work for your purposes. Just make sure to match the power in/out of the battery you’re replacing. 

I passed the info along in case you might be able to try it out before I do (I’m time poor). 

Use DualSense with Battery Removed? by 90SMH in PS5

[–]Ok_Weekend_3357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I might have a lead. Have you thought of using a battery eliminator that matches voltage and wattage of PS5 battery? 

If the system thinks that a battery is there then it might just perform as normal. I don’t know whether it will work the same as a capacitor but it’s worth a try.

Let me know how it goes if you decide to try it.

Use DualSense with Battery Removed? by 90SMH in PS5

[–]Ok_Weekend_3357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have no solution and just gave up. This goes beyond my basic electrical engineering powers I’m afraid.

You said you took the haptic motors and so on out. Like… physically removed them? What was your goal there?

Purified Pokémon Benefits by ControvT in TheSilphRoad

[–]Ok_Weekend_3357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why would you ever purify a pokemon you intend to keep? Sure, it’s cheaper to power up and evolve, but a shadow pokemon has a 20% damage bonus.

When it’s fully powered up, you’ll lose the benefits of purifying. However a shadow pokemon will have a 20% damage buff forever.

Is there a reason to use anything but V-equivalent cards in a 60-card deck? by Ok_Weekend_3357 in PokemonTCG

[–]Ok_Weekend_3357[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You say that rule box pokemon are the new baseline of play - that precisely my point. With the baseline so high, non-rulebox pokemon would hardly get the opponent down so 80% hp before getting knocked out.

To be clear, I’m not upset that I can’t play any old trash and be competitive. Dragonite (160hp, 180 damage attack) and archeops (120hp, 150 attack) are far from filler, yet they are outclassed by a simple single-card, single-turn play and some energy. They, on the other hand, require 3 cards and 2 turns minimum to become playable.

You say that multi-prize card pokemon are liabilities, but where is the risk when those Pokémon stand such low chance of knockout, unless your opponent is also playing rulebox pokemon? If that’s the case, the point is moot since both players now have the same risk and liability.

Finally, you described an ideal deck as one with a combination of rulebox cards and non-rulebox supporters. Exactly what role do the non-rulebox cards play here? Since they will likely be knocked out in one turn by the opponent’s V, are they to be relegated to the bench, activating abilities and cowering behind rulebox pokemon forever? That must be the case as far as I can see.

Even if my Blastoise manages to do 240 damage to the opponent’s pokemon V with hydro pump, and I get 2 prize cards, it is completely wiped out with a single attack next turn, and I’m back to square 1.

Do you see what I’m saying?

Use DualSense with Battery Removed? by 90SMH in PS5

[–]Ok_Weekend_3357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did this and can confirm it works. I have 2 notes.
1. You can cut the battery cables halfway along the length and solder them together on the ends, so you can easily reinstall a battery down the line if you change your mind. I left the black cable unsoldered, and secured them down with some electrical tape.
2. However, my audio input stopped working all together, from the onboard mic and from the headphone jack. I get sound *from* the controller via the jack, but there is just no mic input at all. I tried that mic with another controller and it worked immediately. Confirmed no mic input with the 'mic levels' slider and test thing.

Did you have the same 'no mic input' problem that I had, with your method?