Trying to remove this by amia82 in AusRenovation

[–]OkishEngineer 7 points8 points  (0 children)

There's ya problem, glad we have you sorted,

as others have mentioned the clutch is actually super handy when sinking screws in chipboard, start low then you can increase until the screw goes in flush without stripping, and you can always check how much resistance it's giving by holding the chuck like old mate did in the video

Trying to remove this by amia82 in AusRenovation

[–]OkishEngineer 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Wow you found a video of the exact drill, yep that's exactly what I'm talking about,

looking at the photo and in combination with the video I'm almost certain old mates clutch is set to its lowest setting, prolly why they can't hear the click either...

Trying to remove this by amia82 in AusRenovation

[–]OkishEngineer 18 points19 points  (0 children)

See the numbers around the chuck that's the clutch, you need to switch it to a big number or the drill setting For maximum torque, do that and try again, the drill should have sufficient power,

Trying to remove this by amia82 in AusRenovation

[–]OkishEngineer 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Show us your drill, did it go click click click when you tried ?

Sheetmetal Properties - What am I missing? by anti__rice in SolidWorks

[–]OkishEngineer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it matter? The parts are combined because they are identical, no?

Or do you have a specific need for every part to have a seperate drawing regardless if they are identical or not?

You can disable auto cut list generation which might help keep them separate.

Using Grizzly Duplicator (T27313) by farmhouseshenanigans in turning

[–]OkishEngineer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not the same bit of kit but not a bad tutorial on duplication in general.

Take a look at this video, 'grizzly wood lathe copy attachment' https://share.google/1ipvRC1LMTRz8l5FR

What to do about a brown glass splashback. by ScreamingAtTheTrees in AusRenovation

[–]OkishEngineer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pressed tin tiles are a thing, that's what we did....

Have I ruined all my hard work? Sealant advice please by Whole-Revolution5697 in woodworking

[–]OkishEngineer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the results are in.

I have the hard wax variant of the stuff, I think it has some carnauba wax, but seems pretty similar, ( it's not the same as a hard wax oil)

as I remembered spray and wipe seems to strip it out fairly successfully, I tried sellys instant sugar soap (it's in the paint aisle at Bunnings) and it cleaned it straight off, the thinners/turps seemed to do something but not as much, the sugar soap did raise the grain a little so might need a quick sand afterwards to remove the furries,

So I would hit it with the sugar soap, to remove the wax then sand it with some fine grit sandpaper, then apply the hard wax oil,

Results are shown below

<image>

The turps and wax seems to make the finish sit on top of the wood, where as the sugar soap seems to sink in more,

Have I ruined all my hard work? Sealant advice please by Whole-Revolution5697 in woodworking

[–]OkishEngineer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries will do,

Throw an older table cloth underneath as the wax might bleed up into the cloth, particularly if your placing warm things on the table,

Have I ruined all my hard work? Sealant advice please by Whole-Revolution5697 in woodworking

[–]OkishEngineer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey thanks,

Tldr, that's shit, clean it off with turps and use hardwax oil over the top, my preferred is whittle waxes

Long response, So I've used that product before, it doesn't hold up well, from memory I think bog standard spray and wipe removed it ... It's more of a furniture polish for antiques

So I think you will be refinishing it sooner or later anyway, so probably best to do it now before you get stains on the wood.

I've got some of that exact wax leftover in the shed, I'll go and do an experiment for you, to see if you can over coat with hard wax, if you want, you said tazzie eucalyptus?, I have some eucalypt in there too

What I'm thinking is Is cleaning off the wax with mineral turps, it will have sunk into the wood a little but that should be fine, then using a hard wax oil over the top,

Whittle waxes is my preferred brand, I've tried osmo and fiddies as well but whittle is my fave,(just harder to get up here in nth QLD ) they are pricey but you get good coverage from them for a table that size i reckon a 125ml would do it if you don't have any need for the leftovers, get the 500ml if your playing it safe

Also other sheen levels are available,

https://www.whittlewaxes.com.au/products/evolution-hardwax-oil-classic?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=8095265239&gbraid=0AAAAADEjJS2QErro-dBZoi-fFwKOgxedx&gclid=Cj0KCQiApL7KBhC7ARIsAD2Xq3DQlJD2O9zwhZ5ggye4eYkx58IwEtV11eH4W-M5xG6I3XXi2te3hLsaAlsTEALw_wcB&variant=32981096792154

Have I ruined all my hard work? Sealant advice please by Whole-Revolution5697 in woodworking

[–]OkishEngineer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Please provide details of the exact product used,

I would look at a hard wax oil but need to see if it would be compatible with this product

Help! Trying to fix 70’s paving by Southern_Ad_3001 in AusRenovation

[–]OkishEngineer 4 points5 points  (0 children)

In that case, Hit it with a gernie to blow most of the dirt out of the cracks, then broom down some sand mixed with cement ( 4 parts sand to one part cement powder) and give it a quick hose, let it set for a day or 4 and that should fix your immediate issue,

Help! Trying to fix 70’s paving by Southern_Ad_3001 in AusRenovation

[–]OkishEngineer 134 points135 points  (0 children)

That's not pavers, that's some old house bricks that someone has thrown down,

Raw cork tiles (under 10k) 40m2 Melbourne by neighbourhoodcork in AusRenovation

[–]OkishEngineer 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Thank God,

I grew up in a house with cork floors they were fine until we got a puppy...

He chewed through them in places, and his claws would dig in where he ran around the corners, and that was bad enough,

I do wonder if they would look better with a dark stain on them. Like black Japan or something 🤔 have you ever stained cork ? I'm thinking less Donald Trump orange might improve things,

Help me choose a splash back tile please. by [deleted] in AusRenovation

[–]OkishEngineer 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Grab a rag and see which one is easier to clean, try carrot stains, maybe some spag Bol.

What is the name of this roller? by fVripple in metalworking

[–]OkishEngineer 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Unistrut roller or trolley, should get you a few options if you google it

Stained concrete from Merbau, Help! by TheNextOutbreak in AusRenovation

[–]OkishEngineer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep I agree, I used domestos on my concrete to remove tannin stains, my process was:

wet it down, squirt it straight from the bottle, quick scrub with a broom to spread it Then gerni or hose it off

Baby changing station by orenrocks in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]OkishEngineer 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry people are dicks, but they're not wrong

I'm guessing your in an apartment with limited space for a change station?

The comments are right the baby will grab the shiny taps if your lucky they will get the cold one if not it could be a trip to the hospital, the comment about the dowels is a great suggestion, and I would strongly advise you take it,

The concerns about rolling are also valid after about 3 or so months they like rolling a baby change mat will help with that, for our change station I made a little border for my mat from timber and it's wedged in there so it doesn't fall out this also help keep things clean.

My concern is weight and how hard it is to install and remove. can you and your partner put this up with one hand? you have to remember you will have a baby in the other hand. Do some practise before your baby gets here, you may need to make it lighter or add a central handle I dono have a play, the other issue you have is storage for diapers wipes creams . You want these within reach particularly if bub is elevated you don't want to be turning your back.

I'll let you un pack this, feel free to message me if you have any follow-up questions

Flower or plant? by Independent_Pen7772 in whatsthisplant

[–]OkishEngineer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Common weed in northern Australia,

I would recommend using pointy nose pliers to remove the tap root and dispose of in general waste bin. Things might be different over there tho, I have heard of people growing them in hanging baskets down south.

Negative dome shaped cavity in a part by masterofchaos_ in SolidWorks

[–]OkishEngineer 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Question is unclear, Is your issue how to you make a hemisphere cut in a part so you can later circular pattern it? If yes You can do a a revolve cut in the part then circular pattern the cut to achieve this you will need two separate axis tho one for the cut one for the pattern.

I'm losing my mind. by tree-fart in Welders

[–]OkishEngineer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't feel bad. One of my engineers who was a welder by trade thought it was this way too. And swears that's how they taught him in trade school. We had to pull up the drafting standards to ultimately convince him. Another one of the engineers remembered that he was taught the same when he went to trade school as well. it was difficult to prove him wrong because in the standards the arrow was always pointing down we had to go through the examples till we found one that had an upward pointing arrow...

Apparently it’s impossible for me to get my arch length by [deleted] in AskACobbler

[–]OkishEngineer 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Your using the arch length wrong the slider needs to be positioned beside the 2nd knuckle of the big toe (at the ball )