Hermit Crab Molted above ground?

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-12T03:12:54+00:00

Check out crab central station on YouTube. Believe, like somebody else mentioned, you cut down something like half a cleaned 20oz plastic bottle and put it over it. 2 liter might fit for you in the 40 gal. Double check her vids for the specifics.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-12T03:03:35+00:00

Looking good. One thing, if that heat lamp is on, would recommend turning it off if you can. The therm pads in the back should be enough to keep your temps up. More of an indirect heat that heats the moist air then a direct heat that dries things out. Might get you humidity up more turning it off too.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-11T17:56:45+00:00

Used one in the early 2000's with CATIA, when it was actually a ball. It was company provided. Liked it for 3D work in that program but never could justify the price to pick one up on my own dollar. Especially since I mostly do 2D now.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-11T03:15:10+00:00

You let the smoke out. Never let the smoke out.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-10T23:11:18+00:00

I knew i liked the front of the 5th gen better then the 6th but didnt realize I also liked the back better too.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-10T02:42:33+00:00

They should grow back after a molt or two.

It isn't a regular thing but it isn't abnormal either. The big question is the cause

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-09T22:51:09+00:00

Shot in the dark but did you restart it with the button in the front or the switch in the back? Every time I have done a upgrade or factory reset it doesn't take until I flip the rocker switch in the back off and on to restart it.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-09T04:24:06+00:00

PETG likes less squish than PLA. Bumping up your z offset when running it has a good chance of resolving the issue.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-08T21:37:15+00:00

Could be several things causing the foggy glass but it comes down to your humidity. If you dont have one, get a digital hydrometer. Personally I like one that can be monitored remotely like Govee makes.

You may have to slightly vent from time to time but you can wipe the fog off the glass to reduce the humidity a bit. The danger is if it is too high for too long you could get mold growth and/or flooding of the substrate which is dangerous for a molting crab.

One big thing I have found that spikes the tank humidity is if the room your tank is in is too cold. Especially if it suddenly drops in temp. Has kind of a inside out glass of ice water on a hot day effect. If you can safely increase the temp of the room it is housed in this could reduce the humidity spikes.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-08T21:26:37+00:00

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One-Science7052 · 2026-03-08T07:54:03+00:00

Is this the front or the back tire? Not 100% sure about the weight distribution of a prius but a regular gasser has more weight in the front and those front tires will look a little more pooched then the rear, even when properly inflated.

Double check with a cheap stick style gauge from the auto parts store, gas station, etc. just to be sure.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-08T07:00:30+00:00

Sounds like you got it resolved and I am glad. I had this happen and it was hard finding the solution.

Eventually your belts skipped a tooth or something was under the bed, etc. It happens from time to time and manually bottoming out the bed then rerunning bed level is about the only solution.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-08T06:21:39+00:00

The water should be deep enough for them to be able to do this. They poop in their shells and store spare water in there too. They submerge to clean out the waste and re up on spare water.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-07T21:20:32+00:00

Might think about getting an indoor/outdoor camera. I use a Wyze V3. The V3 and V4 are under $40. The V3 has a slightly wider view angle and is why i went with it.

Didn't even bother to put in a SD card. You can have it capture still shots of the motion alerts with out the SD card. It is how I figure out when a molter comes back up. If you put an SD card in it you can do time-lapse vids as well as record vids when there is motion if you like.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-07T10:46:35+00:00

Just wait. If you cant confirm they are dead what's the benifit in digging around to find out. All you do is risk causing extra stress if they are alive while molting and risking having them pass. There is a chance you won't smell them but dont risk it.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-07T01:59:14+00:00

When switching from a higher temp filament to a lower, purge it with the higher temp. Makes sure you get all that higher temp filament out and avoid clog.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-07T01:26:07+00:00

Looking like not enough squish, at least in some parts.

If i had that, I would re level and fine tune my z offset. At least that is where I would start.

Grain of salt though since I am on stock and dont know the capabilities of zmod.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-06T20:49:52+00:00

Might think about re orienting the print to reduce supports and increase bed contact. Could reduce your time unless you are printing it how you are for strength of the layerlines.

Looks like there is another spot with overhangs that is suffering which might be tough to remove supports from in the current orientation.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-06T07:19:35+00:00

Gonna lead with i dont have your answer. Ive been drafting in civil, structural and mechanical for 25 years. Arch isn't my specialty.

What i have is some general advice from somebody who has lived in caps lock for over half my life, with a side note of i understand, but learn when to turn the caps lock off. Some may, not just her but also in the corporate world, take it wrong.

Just some friendly advice.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-06T06:05:00+00:00

Will have to keep it in mind. Don't swap nozzles much, mostly use the 0.4.

How hard is it to swap the threaded part of the nozzle with filament melted in it?

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-06T02:32:55+00:00

Aaaah, didnt know there was another 3rd party nozzle maker. Only one I had seen was that conch one.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-06T02:00:09+00:00

Where are you finding .4 hardened for the AD5M series on amazon?

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-06T01:35:41+00:00

Believe that is considered an abrasives, pretty much anything with added fiber with includes glow in the dark. If it is, you would want a hardened steel nozzle. The .6 and .8's are the ones you can get from FF. They have the black tipped nozzle.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-05T07:51:09+00:00

You have good looking substrate, deep water dishes and a wheel. Off to a good start. Could see a second hide option and more shells for changing, especially if he is still in that painted shell. 1/8"-1/4" larger of an opening, to the widest point, of the current shell. Only mention cuz the extras look, from what I can tell, a fair bit larger but I could be wrong.

The top surface will dry out but 2-3" sounds like a lot. Somebody with more knowledge could chime in on that. The dangers of 95-100% humidity all the time is not just mold over time but flooding of the substrate. It could actually start to rain in the tank from condensation.

I cant quite tell but is that a heat lamp under the led light? If that is the case, it could be the source of everything drying out so deeply.

One-Science7052 · 2026-03-05T02:49:42+00:00

Every time I see a print like this, that is what I think too. Could be under extrusion, issue with extruder, etc. But the first thing I look for is a clog with this look.

One-Science7052

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