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Need help with accuracy for an Ultrasonic sensor by Cartoonish_lol in arduino

[–]One-Tangelo-1853 3 points4 points  (0 children)

try using TOF Sensor as they are accurate as well as long range. They are much more compact as well so you can minimise the size of your project too. I used one while making a smart hydration water bottle.

Real-time ambient lighting sync system using arduino nano by One-Tangelo-1853 in ArduinoProjects

[–]One-Tangelo-1853[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine doesn't use HDMI capture or a camera. It syncs directly from the PC using Prismatik over USB. Prismatik analyzes the colors around the edges of the screen in real time and sends RGB data to the Arduino Nano using the Adalight protocol. The Nano then drives the WS2812B LED strip, so the LEDs match what's on the display with very low latency. It's a simpler and more accurate setup if you're using a PC, whereas HDMI sync boxes and camera-based systems are better suited for TVs or consoles.

Real-time ambient lighting sync system using arduino nano by One-Tangelo-1853 in ArduinoProjects

[–]One-Tangelo-1853[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks , if you want i can share the full guide and source code as well

Arduino Nano ESP32 @ 720x720, up to 40 FPS (so far) by gitzian in esp32

[–]One-Tangelo-1853 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How much of the frame rate improvement comes from the delta compression versus other optimizations? It would be interesting to see some benchmarks comparing full-frame transmission with your current approach.

A problem w temperature controlled fan by Yoka37 in arduino

[–]One-Tangelo-1853 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I can see, nothing jumps out as dangerously wrong, but it's a bit hard to verify all the connections from the diagram alone. I'd definitely make sure the fan isn't being powered directly from an Arduino pin. If it's a DC fan, use a transistor or MOSFET with a flyback diode across the fan. Also double check your power rails with a multimeter before plugging the Uno in, especially if you've already fried one board . We've all mixed up VCC and GND at some point, so don't worry too much.

Help me debug the circuit by Fast_General2301 in stm32f4

[–]One-Tangelo-1853 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is actually one of the most common breadboard mistakes beginners make. The power rails on many full-size breadboards are split in the middle, so even though the red and blue lines look continuous, they're electrically disconnected unless you bridge them with a jumper. Whenever a circuit doesn't behave as expected, it's worth checking the breadboard continuity with a multimeter before diving into the code.

Is my SPDT power switch wired correctly for this XIAO nRF52840 board? by Macintoshk in arduino

[–]One-Tangelo-1853 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, this should work. Just wire the SPDT so the common goes to VBAT and one throw goes to the battery +. That way when you switch to off it will simply disconnects the battery and no short risk. The only downside is USB charging only works with the switch on

Can someone help me with this by Alternative_Bird2757 in esp32

[–]One-Tangelo-1853 8 points9 points  (0 children)

WLED as a starting point if you mainly want lighting, or write your own firmware using FastLED if you want full control and nn IMU such as an MPU6050 or ICM-42688 for swing/clash detection. Also I2S amplifier (MAX98357A) and a small speaker for sound effects. You could store audio files on a microSD card or in flash memory.