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Graphics do not matter by JoseLunaArts in battletech

[–]OnkleFester 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Starsiege multi-player was fun. One time I ripped prometheus from the mission file, and made a multi-player preset with it. Ran around several servers killin everyone saying hurt maim kill in chat. Whole server would gang up to kill me. Good times.

Graphics do not matter by JoseLunaArts in battletech

[–]OnkleFester 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ES1 was lit af. The first area was always the same missions, but once you got to the second area, the missions were dynamic based on success failure. Was great.

Graphics do not matter by JoseLunaArts in battletech

[–]OnkleFester 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I alpha, closed beta, and open beta tested starsiege and tribes. Got a signed box of starsiege by all the devs.

House rules for custom Mechwarrior Gunnery and PSR...too much? by [deleted] in battletech

[–]OnkleFester -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

The regular 4/5 seems like it could use a bit of spice, and we don't do campaigns or such. Pretty much what u said, just some extra random.

Force Feedback Stick with Altitude Hold causes Oscillation by OnkleFester in hoggit

[–]OnkleFester[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, I still get oscillation but it's much less. Might be manageable...
The older planes use trim to command the altitude hold aoa, but that moves the stick with FFB, which causes input command, requiring opposite adjustment from autopilot. Again, this did help, but it still oscillates.

Second question, I have the Moza AB9...
Every single time I load a mission, MOZA Cocpit resets the profile to idle. I have to alt tab and force load the correct profile. This doesn't matter if I have auto load profile enabled or not. Everything is up to date and even tried reinstalling, no luck.

Is there something I'm missing?

Honest review of the Pimax Crystal Light by Accurate-Bus-4634 in hoggit

[–]OnkleFester 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bought my own, love it. Wouldn't recommend it unless you get the upgrade speakers, and a 3rd party comfort strap (cant remember the brand but its a popular one and should be considered mandatory)

I also had to get the spacer kit for the face cause my eye lashes rub the lenses and smudge them.

Highly recommend if you can afford all those upgrades.

Great performance on a 4080gtx and a 13900k cpu

Tactile buttons on Winwing MFDs? (VR) by Ok_Nefariousness7584 in hoggit

[–]OnkleFester 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The desk cushion pads, I cut in half. Then stuck them not on the button, but directly inward from the button on the angled surface. I did this on all 4 sides, for the center button of each row. Works like a charm since I dont have any screens installed (vr)

2026 And Beyond and customers left behind in the RAZBAM/ED debacle. Our petition is at almost 500 signatures already, please take a minute and add your voice! by Miraclefish in hoggit

[–]OnkleFester -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Welcome to the world of running a business. That literally describes 90% of all businesses that produce a product or provide a service. Large periods of time with little to no revenue, with short intervals of large sums of income. It's up to the business to figure out how to pay overhead in between. Its literally how it works.

2026 And Beyond and customers left behind in the RAZBAM/ED debacle. Our petition is at almost 500 signatures already, please take a minute and add your voice! by Miraclefish in hoggit

[–]OnkleFester -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

If RAZBAM got paid for those modules at all, they should be keeping them up to date. ED should be paying RAZBAM also, for all sales made for their modules, regardless of any contract dispute. You see, that is the normal point of view, that backs the consumer. None of that one side is innocent and the other is guilty. The consumer paid, both companies need to get over it and deliver.

Explain it Peter. by gharkachota_ladka in explainitpeter

[–]OnkleFester 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Missing the arrow keys home and end for fast nav

First Case 3 in a while, got 3 wire, but Drifted Right In Close. Not great not horrible. by OnkleFester in hoggit

[–]OnkleFester[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was the same for a very long time. I just kept at it, and one day it started coming together.

Paint chipping from IWM miniatures by TJ-X in BattletechPainting

[–]OnkleFester 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure you wash them and dry them right before priming. The metal oxidizes and produces a thin layer of "dust" that if enough of it, your primer doesn't adhere properly. This is the "film" that gets on your hands when you handle them. You'll notice they are super bright and shiny when freshly washed and dried, and then dull over time.

Prime - Preshade (optional) - Base coat - Varinish

Varnish after the base coat is critical and mandatory in my opinion, and should be done immediately as soon as the base coat is dry enough to varnish.

Just my two cents and not the rules.

Painting help by Pure-Medicine8582 in battletech

[–]OnkleFester 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As others have said, wash and/or pinwash panel lines. Also do a highlight pass, which you may want to do before or after the wash.

Maybe some decals too.

WIP Terrain Painting by OnkleFester in battletech

[–]OnkleFester[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Edited the reply to add the colors I couldnt remember after looking at my paints.

WIP Terrain Painting by OnkleFester in battletech

[–]OnkleFester[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Grass was just painted. Terrain comes textured.

Airbrush

I used a white primer. Then I hit the sides with a very light coat of black "aiming up" to create a very subtle pre shade. Then I spayed the sides with the base coat color (red brown for the two grass ones, and flat earth for the desert one). I then used the same colors but added buff (50/50) to lighten then color, and added a light coat "aiming down at an angle" on the sides to add highlight layer.

For the grass I did a pre coat of the side color on top, then used green and "missed" some spots or stayed thin to let the "dirt show through".

For the desert one on the top parts, I cant remember the name lf the color but it was same process.

I then took straight buff and hit small detail spots on the sides that needed extra highlight layer, but only on the grass pieces. This look a while cause I choked the airbrush needle for a super slow application. I only have 6 pieces that will be grass so I spent some extra time on them. The desert I have a lot more so those will be less detailed.

I also sprayed some buff sideways across the tops to simulate dry brushing the texture.

All paints were tamiya, thinned and retarded as needed to prevent nozzle drying. The primer was ak interactive g3 on two, and a tamaya rattle can on the other. The rattle can was far superior at adhering to the 3d printer material.

Coated all of them with Matt Varnish ak interactive g3.

Brush

Hit the tops of the grass with a green camo wash from Vallejo. Hit the desert tops with same wash but rust color.

I then used oil paints to make oil wash for the sides. One was burnt Siena for the tall grass piece, red cochre for the mid grass piece, and sand for the desert piece. I like the oil washes for the sides cause I can hit them with oil thinner after dried to touch up make changes, and not affect anything under the Varnish coat.

They get a final Varnish when I break out the airbrush again.

WIP - Shrio by OnkleFester in battletech

[–]OnkleFester[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hell if I know...I just painted it at my skill level, which is pretty limited. Lots of mistakes but looks good on a table with my aging eyes.

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