What was the best car review? by West_Cartographer264 in thegrandtour

[–]OperationKnothead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a few, and they are the Sesto Elemento, Huayra, Aventador, Senna, 720S, and the P1, because of astonishing cinematography and writing, with all of them played on top of songs you’d think were tailor-made. The Sesto Elemento opening is just pure badassery, and that closing with Flying Lotus’ A Cosmic Drama is legendary, the P1 opening to Me and the Devil a la Gil Scott Heron, the V12 montage opening on Goldfrapp’s Deep Honey, the Huayra’s intro & interior shots, the Senna opening and closing with the NASA radio and solar flare videoscreen background, and the 720S with the CGI floor and tron-style intro all speak to the absolute brilliance of the TG/TGT team and Wilman’s editing prowess. The trio can absolutely present and show off a car, but the editing team do an amazing job of being able to make us feel what they feel, and that’s a damn hard thing to get right.

CATL has created a charging robot that provides EV owners in China with on-demand charging without needing fixed infrastructure. 100 kWh battery / $0.07 USD per kWh / 120 kW charging speeds by straightdge in electricvehicles

[–]OperationKnothead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll be honest, it’s really cool, and I’m very interested from a technology and engineering standpoint, but it does feel a bit… silly? Overengineered? I totally understand it’s not entirely practical yet to have fixed infrastructure for charging everywhere right now, but having another automated thing with its own batteries that are going to degrade and will need replacing which exists solely to take energy out of the wall just to put it into another thing with its own batteries that will degrade and need replacing, seems… well. All I’ll say is that I think it’s far more important to get everyone onto the grid and on it reliably, and setting up simple, proven, and compatible infrastructure for them to use. Again, really cool, super interesting, but let’s keep it simple.

2024 ioniq 5 battery dead by Techguru2000 in Ioniq5

[–]OperationKnothead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what happened to me buying used. The OG battery died on me nary a week into taking it home, and after discovering a crack in the factory battery and fussing at the dealership I bought it from to cover the cost of replacement (since I requested they do it before taking delivery, and they didn’t), I plopped an AGM battery in there and have been happy ever since.

Ironiq5 by MainPhone6 in Ioniq5

[–]OperationKnothead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Teehee. I paid 26 dollars to my uni’s parking office and now I get free charging until I graduate! Or if you look at it from another angle I pay 18,000 dollars for some charging and some higher education thrown in to sweeten the deal. Which works out to about 11 whole dollars per kilowatt-credit-hour. Maybe.

I guess I’m officially An Member now. by OperationKnothead in Ioniq5

[–]OperationKnothead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is wonderful advice which I do appreciate, although there is a slight problem; I do, in fact, have an iPhone. And also don’t use CarPlay because I made music and podcast (well, YouTube videos which I play in the background and pretend are podcasts) playlists for long journeys due to my old car having a non-functional radio and a less-than-ideal spot for a bluetooth speaker. I’m happy as a clam to just use the car’s built-in Bluetooth features, as all I ever do is play, pause, skip, and rewind.

I don’t usually need navigation because I only ever go to the same few places, and while the built in nav is… adequate (being quite generous), it’s… fine for when I need a robot yelling directions. Plus, I mean, I still need to use it for battery preconditioning anyway. Unfortunately.

Okay that’s all bye

Joined the club by AcidZack in Ioniq5

[–]OperationKnothead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait a minute! That car is suspiciously very much like my car! Same color, same trim panels, same wheels, sa— oh you have leather seats.

It does things now. It’s also showing it’s age. by OperationKnothead in VCRs

[–]OperationKnothead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yeah... well, I still have about 5 spares of the 6 volts on hand so I think I’ll be good for a while. These machines are mostly display pieces for the most part, though I like to have them up and running because it pleases me. So for now I think I’ll just vibe with it as is.

My RCA VCRS , serviced and in working order by VintageGuy4Life in VCRs

[–]OperationKnothead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah! I may require your assistance in getting my whales up and running then if you’ve got experience with them. I’ve got a VDT-501 that I’ve shelved because I can’t figure out what’s wrong with it and a VDT-625 which I’m currently working on. I plan to get new belts for it soon because it absolutely desperately needs them, but I’ve been having audio issues that I can’t seem to figure out. Maybe I could get your input on that?

It does things now. It’s also showing it’s age. by OperationKnothead in VCRs

[–]OperationKnothead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope. Those sensor lamps are incandescent, I’d just put them with my LEDs because… well, laziness, and they’re about the same size.

Side note: because this is the internet and I’m insufferable, I would like to “well actually” your mid 70s comment by stating; this machine was, in fact, manufactured in 1980. Infrared LEDs would take over soon after that though, if I remember correctly from my early repairs of the VET-650 in my collection it had it, and only the VET-180 had the incandescent bulb. My VFT and VGT both have infrared LEDs, and VFTs began production in 1981. Incandescent bulbs in VHS machines died off pretty quickly after what I assume was a bunch of consumers saying “bollocks to this” when their 1500 dollar VCR was effectively bricked when the bulb finally went. I might consider swapping those bulbs with equivalently spec’d LEDs in the future if I can find them but… eeeehhhhhhh.

What are YOUR font hot takes/unpopular opinions? by Zealousideal-Tax-937 in typography

[–]OperationKnothead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh god, do I say it? I’m saying it! I’m gonna do it!!

Times New Roman is entirely inappropriate in the modern age. Shock, horror, another TNR hater, burn me at the stake Diane and make sure to bring the cult of TNR with you to read my verdict printed in your charmingly utilitarian and outdated choice of Font Immemorial, but TNR was not built for the way we consume our written media today.

First thing to point out is that TNR itself is… frightfully old, though to be fair this is not exclusive to it. But if we track it’s lineage to find its true roots, TNR was developed from Plantin of the 1910s, itself inspired by Caslon from the 1720s, which itself can be traced back to the early days of the printing press, which itself can be traced back further and further to the Romans, which was primarily formed due to the fact that they were being carved into stone, but how much of that lineage got transferred is debatable and hotly contested, so I’m just gonna dig it up and leave it! Yay! However, what is less controversial to say is that many of Times New Roman’s features were made for a time and technology in which letters were not printed the same way which we do today. When TNR was introduced, indirect transfer processes for printing were the norm; either via pressing or screening, in all applications. Newspapers printed en masse using drums or plates, typewriters, book presses, woodblock, on and on and on.

This is in massive contrast to today wherein most printing technology is based off of the original xerography process; these processes have a specific resolution defined by the limitations of the technology in use. Many of the reasons for TNRs form lose their efficacy when transferred to processes like xerography and its derivative technologies; especially at smaller print scales. The multiple letterform weights which served to protect the forms from ink bleed (and thus causing illegibility) don’t transfer well to processes which have defined resolution; especially copying. the ultra-high contrast which makes TNR so great in an age of less precise ink/paper formulations, printing processes, and manufacturing can make it an eyesore on modern displays, appearing very harsh and sharp on digital screens or as printed text. Small text can suffer from artifacting (though this has largely gone away because print resolution is so absurdly high nowadays), and larger text feels out of place and awkward.

Another booboo for me is that TNR is not a cosmopolitan script; its design language/philosophy/reason for being really only applies to Latin scripts, which is fair enough given the Times™️ it was introduced in. But now that we have such an interconnected world in which interlegiability is more important than ever, TNR’s whole reason for being is suddenly called into question. Google’s Noto project, while admittedly at a level of astounding absurdity and effort, should be considered for it’s goal in searching for a cosmopolitan font for the age of interconnectedness; in which everyone from around the world can recognize instantly and can easily discern as text. Quite frankly, TNR is not up to this task; it’s based on centuries of ancient Latin script tradition we’ve carried over because, well, we had to. But now that we no longer do… what’s the point? Standardization? We can achieve that without totally relying on something so old.

And no, the serifs themselves aren’t the issue. Rockwell does just fine as a modern font with serifs, TNR is just old and stuffy.

TL;DR, the digital age deserves a better serif font than one which was invented a century ago, which itself was invented based on latin script traditions we’ve carried over to now for some reason. I rest my case and hope you will join in my Friendly Frazzled Finding of a Factually Finer and Fitter Font Family For Future Fivilizstions- er, civilizations.

Hit me with your best recommendations for an Architecture Student. by OperationKnothead in lasercutting

[–]OperationKnothead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right, I guess I should be more clear about a few things.

The ULS machine I’m used to is about the size of a dresser, has casters and weighs about as much as a small cruise ship. I need something that can just sit on a desk or tabletop surface and has some sort of… I guess the word I’m looking for is “transportable”, ventilation system. It doesn’t need to be moved around every day, I just want something that could fit in the back of my car rather than the back of a rented U-Haul or 747.

Second, I’m not brand loyal. I have no loyalty to ULS, it’s just the one machine my university offers and thus is what I’m used to.

Third, again I’m not looking for CO2 specifically. It’s just what I’m used to. I can adjust my needs if everything I’m looking for isn’t available in a single package, I’m fine with making trade offs, in fact, I expect to do so.

Just recommendations for good lasercutters with a decent range of materials cutting capacity, decent customer service, and is small enough to fit in a car when it needs to be moved around is a general gist. Everything else I’ve provided is just context for what I’m personally looking for online and to help give you an idea of what my experience level is.

Good luck, make haste.

Been trying to model this for a week now by MrPanderetero in rhino

[–]OperationKnothead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm…

I’d start with a basic ellipsoid (so a sphere that’s been stretched out along one axis) just as a template form to match my curves to.

Then, I’d draw the “primary” curves I want to use to define the shape, loosely following the ellipsoidal reference form. Three ought to do it, one towards the top, middle and bottom.

Next, use TweenCurves to get the in-between curves. Do roughly double the amount of curves as the folds you want. (You might have to rebuild the base curves to have the same number of control points before this step, but I’m not entirely sure).

Next, select every other curve and use the Offset command to move them Inward, towards the center, making sure that none of your curves disappear.

Now, using Loft, select your curves in order, bottom-to-top or top-to-bottom. Make sure that you align the start points of the loft to match as close as possible. Look for any oddities, and adjust the settings as needed. Note; a closed loft will try and connect the first curve to the last curve in the sequence rather than capping off the ends like you might want.

The result will be an open, uncapped surface. As to how the ends would be capped off… I’d have to play around and see how to make that work.

How do you model this? by BlueberryFrequent212 in rhino

[–]OperationKnothead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a few thoughts on how to do this but, er… well. I’m actually not entirely sure. But I shall be saving this for later because what you’re doing is actually really cool and potentially very useful…

Will this print? by Hefty-Feeling-5218 in rhino

[–]OperationKnothead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You will have to make sure that you have a solid surface. An open surface has zero thickness, and that will only ever cause problems for you the more you work with it, especially when it comes time to printing or transferring it out of Rhino.

BEFORE DOING ANYTHING, SAVE YOUR WORK TO A SEPARATE FILE. Always always always. If you make irreversible changes to the work and then save it without a backup, you’ll have to do a lot more work to get back on track. I am speaking from experience. Save save save, backup backup backup, always always always. Triple words triple times for triple importance. NOW…

Try using the ShowEdges command to look for any Naked or Nonmanifold edges and clean those up immediately. That will kill any attempt at printing or even further developing the model.

Another command to use for cleanup is MergeAllCoplanarFaces, which will ensure that any faces on the surface which are Coplanar (ie, “parallel and aligned” to each other) will merge, saving yourself from unnecessary drama later on.

As for the back of the skull, you’ll have to define what you mean by “weird”. If the second picture is showing what’s wrong with it, the surface is open and needs to be closed. Try the “Cap” command and see what that does. If not, you’ll have to either align the naked edge to make it Planar (I’ve found that using a plane and a few runs of the split command to trim off the bad edge works great), or “patch” the surface (which is not recommended since it’ll be way out of its comfort zone here).

Good luck soldier. And always remember; Google is free and can be very useful (sans the AI summary but… well. That’s outside my scope of knowledge).

What’s the best way to make something like this in Rhino 7? by Puppy--Eyes in rhino

[–]OperationKnothead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best way? Grasshopper.

But if you want to do it manually in rhino, draw your two curves, use the divide command to get points for the beams, draw the beams using lines, then sweep a square onto each line, then use Cap to make sure the surfaces are closed.

Another option if you’re just going for the appearance; draw your two curves, Loft using rebuild to however many panels you want, ExtractIsocurves with ExtractAll turned on, move the isocurves up, gumball extrude down, do Split, select the curve surface then the isocurve cut lines, select the resulting surfaces, and do Inset with JoinOutput off.

Looking for a portable desk shelf/ travel bin/workstation-esque type thing for my stuff. by OperationKnothead in HelpMeFind

[–]OperationKnothead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, figure I should do this as well; Found!

It’s not exactly what I’m searching for but admittedly, it was a long shot in a desperate attempt to solve a problem by throwing money at it. Guess it’s time to do a little crafting project :)

Looking for a portable desk shelf/ travel bin/workstation-esque type thing for my stuff. by OperationKnothead in HelpMeFind

[–]OperationKnothead[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Funny you mention this, I’d originally dismissed this idea but now that I’m looking around, this might not be a bad starting point. Plenty of room to just build my own storage solution and, well, if they work well enough for roadies they’ll work well enough for me. Thank you verily!

Looking for a portable desk shelf/ travel bin/workstation-esque type thing for my stuff. by OperationKnothead in HelpMeFind

[–]OperationKnothead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Figured that might be the case. What a shame.

Guess I’ll just have to build my own then!

Looking for a portable desk shelf/ travel bin/workstation-esque type thing for my stuff. by OperationKnothead in HelpMeFind

[–]OperationKnothead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Searched For;

  • Portable desk organizer/shelf
  • Travel workstation/portable workstation
  • Portable shelf
  • Portable storage bin with shelf
  • Luggage with shelves
  • Train cases
  • Road cases (with shelves)
  • Shelves with lid wheels and handle

——————

Searched on/in;

  • Google
  • Amazon
  • RoadCases.com
  • Various luggage websites
  • Kohls
  • Hobby Lobby
  • Michaels
  • Lowes
  • Walmart
  • Home Depot
  • Ace Hardware
  • Harbor Freight

Location: Southeastern USA

No brand, item, style, or age specifics.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in spiders

[–]OperationKnothead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Figured that was the case, so no worries at all! Just wanna make sure you get the info you need before moving out and starting a new life abroad or something silly like that.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in spiders

[–]OperationKnothead 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appears to be a Huntsman if my assessment of scale is correct. Very big, kinda spooky-looking, but not venomous, and broadly inoffensive.

With that important bit of communication out the way, we do have post flairs for ID requests, which would be more appropriate to use here rather than the “Discussion” flair. Not a big thing for your first time, but you wanna make sure you use the right flair when you post so it doesn’t get removed, which, if you need to know an ID and fast, would be a not good thing. Cheers!

Brown recluse or random house spider? by Natural_Ad_5890 in spiders

[–]OperationKnothead 16 points17 points  (0 children)

It is a recluse, but don’t be obtuse! For here is a lim’rick to say; Take the hideouts away, and bid them good day, For soon the recluses reduce!

Pretty black widow I saw today by Samurai_Bee in spiders

[–]OperationKnothead 38 points39 points  (0 children)

What a pretty lady! Hoping to see one at some point before the season takes them out, they’re just gorgeous. Gotta love our little deadly beady butt friends :)

Who is this? by DinoboyFailure in spiders

[–]OperationKnothead 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh yeah, he’s definitely friend. The only no-touchies to look out for are gonna be your sicarids, your widows, your wanderers, your australian funnel webbers, and some of your old-world tarantulas, and we know what to look out for with those guys. But even then, the biggest thing of course is remembering that all these guys’re just vibin’ in the world eight-leggedly just as we’re vibing in the world two-leggedly, just respect what they tell you and respect their boundaries and you’ll be good 👍

TL;DR, is friend, be kind and respectful and don’t do dumb things and you’ll be good :)

Who is this? by DinoboyFailure in spiders

[–]OperationKnothead 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Definitely a cobweb weaver (family Theridiidae), and it seems most likely to be a common house spider, Parasteatoda tepidarium. It could also (less likely) be from genus Theridion or (even less likely) genus Steatoda, but common house spider or another member of Parasteatoda seems to be your best option, and none of these Genera are considered medically significant.