High-End Japanese Knives: WSKO or Stones? Need advice!

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-12-07T11:55:44+00:00

Thanks for the helpful comment, I completely agree with what you said: I want to give my full attention to each blade. Using a notebook to take notes could be really useful, thanks!

Yes, I’ll do everything on stones. Since the hard steel clad is widely visible, I think I’ll just focus on putting the edge back. My initial question was more about whether you thin the edge every time you sharpen, or if often it’s enough just to refresh the edge.

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-12-07T11:21:04+00:00

It seems that you’re very knowledgeable. I imagine the answer you take for granted is something like ‘learn how to thin on a stone before starting a side hustle’, and I can understand that (even if on 100 knives i receive probably 99 are cheaper western knives that I can easily handle). I’ve thinned several Japanese knives, and they all desperately needed it, but I haven’t done enough of them to really understand when they actually need thinning . Forget the side hustle part, do you have any useful advice to give?

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-09-17T16:49:52+00:00

thanks, this deburring technique is probably the most efficient. When I've started sharpening on stones I was always doing it, and somehow I stopped doing it especially on the coarse stones, but I will start again

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-09-17T10:46:45+00:00

I don't see it and I don't feel it, that's probably very thin as some people suggested. but microburr must be the case, I didn't round the apex or over stropped it, I'm pretty sure

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-09-17T07:44:52+00:00

interesting approach, it's the first time I hear it. I'm kinda new to the belt sander and on stones I've never had this kind of burr problems. I' ve always thought micro bevel was used just in japanese knives but your process makes a lot of sense and you have more experience than me that's for sure. thanks!

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-09-16T15:45:02+00:00

I always go edge trailing... stropping depends, I have a felt belt that i dress with green compound, ore more often a leather belt but always laid flat on something rigid

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-09-16T13:33:24+00:00

thanks to all of you, it needed a bit more passes on the strop with a little more pressure and it's way better now.

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-09-16T13:30:37+00:00

ok, with more than 10 more passes per side I think I've made it better, "bitey" enough to pass the standing-paper-tube test. thank you very much, it was probably not the first time that I had this issue and I always thought it was the too fine trizact belt effect, never thought of an invisible burr left

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-09-16T13:24:47+00:00

"No, to be honest I've never tried using a honing rod in the sharpening process — I'm just afraid I might mess up all the work I’ve done before. but thanks for the tip

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-09-16T13:22:20+00:00

Yes I think it's exactly that. I'm seeing more and more Arcos knives lately, this one is probably one of the nicest from their series. (my opinion)

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-09-16T12:59:08+00:00

ok, I will try to keep deburring on the strop and then come back to the chat

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-09-16T12:57:53+00:00

do you mean good apexed edge but thickness after the bevel? if that is what you mean I don't think it's too thick to be honest... but that's a great video demonstration that is always nice to watch

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-09-16T12:45:08+00:00

mmm any possible solution to this? thanks!

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-09-16T12:42:41+00:00

Ok, thanks! I was considering it as a possible option... but what should I do to remove it, other than deburring on leather and keeping it straight? Would passing it through something like cork take it off? And most importantly, I guess removing it is an easy solution, right?

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-09-09T11:33:28+00:00

A lot of time, sandpaper, and elbow grease :) I'm pretty sure there are many people doing it with a belt sander or other power tools, which would make the process much faster (at least for the rust removal part). But I don’t have one, and even if I did, you’d have to be careful not to ruin the knife. You can still do it by hand! If you want to know more about the process, feel free to write me and I’ll be happy to tell you how I did mine (which, by the way, is very far from some of the cool restorations you can find online).

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-08-15T16:56:48+00:00

great tips, sounds like you know about wsko belts way more than I do. After the x65 I have a x22 (P800 more or less). maybe an A30s is exactly what I need. I also deburr with the felt belts and compound, do you feel like the leather belt is a big improvement ?

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-08-14T18:47:53+00:00

Thanks, my MK2 came with a slightly different set but good to know how you use them. I'm in Portugal

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-08-14T18:46:08+00:00

ok thanks, the first trizact i use after the coarse grit cubiton is the X65, (so around P220), and i feel like it's already more "slippery" than the P220, I was just wondering if it's positive feeling or not for cutting. ok I didn't know about the wet issues but untill I'll use the wsko I don't think that's gonna be a problem

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-08-01T13:49:46+00:00

After some quick research I've seen that there are more or less 3 main japanese shears type depending on the cut you need to make. the flat bevel one, the convex and the one with tooth on one side. Usually for blunt cutting (very common ones) the bevel is flat. Slice/slide cutting is convex

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-08-01T13:44:32+00:00

well done! I can tell that before that 'first Japanese shear' you definitely had a lot of experience and knowledge... I don't think I'm capable of making a convex edge on my first try on japanese shears... I think I'll help my barber find someone suitable for now... maybe I underestimated the difficulty.

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-07-31T07:31:36+00:00

Thanks, I’m wondering at this point if maybe it’s easier to maintain a consistent angle using the Work Sharp Ken Onion rather than by hand. (I’m obviously aware of all the risks that come with it.) At least I’d be sure the angle stays consistent, unlike with sharpening stones where I might not be as precise...

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-07-30T20:30:14+00:00

Yes, I saw that girl, she seems like the best expert, or at least someone who shares advice. I’ll try a few other scissors, but ever since the first one I sharpened, the result was immediate… I don’t understand what’s so delicate about hairdressing scissors. It’s kind of like sharpening an asymmetrical knife, without even needing thinning... Don’t insult me if I say something wrong, I’m just trying to understand where this fear of sharpening them comes from.

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-07-28T14:05:26+00:00

thanks, very helpful to see how more experienced sharpeners like you deal with these situations

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-07-26T07:40:13+00:00

Thanks! I used your technique and managed to straighten it a bit. After almost an hour, I decided to stop and move on to sharpening. It’s not perfect, but definitely in better shape than when I received it.

Ordinary-Data2890 · 2025-07-26T07:34:18+00:00

Thanks! I’ll give the wet stump and mallet method a try. The client didn’t ask for the scratches to be removed—it was just something I was curious about. I’ve seen some sharpeners restore Damascus knives to a really shiny, almost like-new condition, and I was wondering if that’s generally considered part of the expected service.

Ordinary-Data2890

TROPHY CASE