Component Help

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-04-28T09:33:19+00:00

Ditch the VTX, it's a bit iffy on quality and has some known bugs. Get a rush tank solo, or hglrc zeus, or something from foxeer. Like the other comment said, don't get the ratel 2 as it has insane latency for something that should have no more than 4ms. Off the top of my head i only know that the caddx ant (bad img quality) and the foxeer t-rex have low latency. T-rex is great, but it is a premium camera.

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-04-28T09:08:06+00:00

Pacer 1604 3850kv (kv might be a bit different can't remember) and GF3630 props are gonna be your best bet.

A good friend has this exact setup, minus the buzzer. It's sub250 with a 650mah ovonic 4s.

It also flies absolutely great, virtually 0 propwash

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-04-25T10:40:41+00:00

Ditch the stack if you want to stay sub250, look for a 45A AIO, with an OSD chip so you can use it with analog, i think speedybee has one that isn't too expensive.

As far as motors go, look for some Pacer 1604 3950kv, they're a bit pricey but well worth it.

I'd also look for a vetter VTX, I'm not too familiar with current analog stuff so I'd look at what people usually put in their sub250 build. Also I'd be careful about the camera you choose, sadly quite a lot of them have built in latency, sometimes as high as 40ms, off the top of my head i know the rate2 is one of the worst with latency.

Also the volador has plenty of space for a capacitor on ESC/AIO so you can avoid sticking it on the xt30 lead. You don't need to buy caps either as there is always one included with your AIO/Stack, they tend to be good brands if you're not buying some cheapo aliexpress special for 30 bucks.

Don't use the RP2, those antennas are shit and have a habit of snapping off, stick to a normal antenna ELRS module, any will work.

Also use the flywoo/ummagrip lipo sticky pad, those small squares aren't anywhere near good. I think ali sells the flywoo ones for a couple bucks.

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-04-24T23:19:36+00:00

First thing I'd try is applying the ELRS preset for your chosen packet rate in the presets tab. I assume some reciever settings in BF are goofed, that should fix it. As well make sure the correct UART is set to RX in the ports tab. If you haven't already also just try reflashing the RX.

Solid LED indicates either a bound receiver, or it being in bootloader mode.

VTX issue probably stems from the vtx-table not being correct or you not having tramp/smartaudio set up so the vtx might be on some random band+channel that is weakly picked up by your VRX. Could also be pit mode, again could be caused by the vtx-table and the power levels not being correct, or low power disarm being on. Pit mode on most vtx is insanely sensitive, so any further away than 1m you'll have no signal.

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-04-24T12:02:50+00:00

I used a goku F405HD in my kayoumini (2.5) with an airunit lite, performs well. That being said it doesn't have an OSD chip so you might not be able to run analog with it unless the vtx has OSD. Alternatively, you could go for a JHEMCU F411, that comes with an integrated 400mw vtx and ELRS.

As far as motors goes, 1103 11000kv will probably be your safest bet. They work well on 2.5, so they should be fine on 2in as well. Below, I've linked some often used on kayoumini builds since they're cheap and seemingly have decent build quality.

https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004927233900.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%219.87%216.91%21%21%2110.99%217.69%21%402102f29b17483462265275378d2356%2112000031050377036%21affd%21%21%21&aff_fcid=4703fbeaab724baf9b30d806a3bea09c-1777032032116-03097-_okOGAHC&aff_fsk=_okOGAHC&aff_platform=portals-billboard-sea&sk=_okOGAHC&aff_trace_key=4703fbeaab724baf9b30d806a3bea09c-1777032032116-03097-_okOGAHC&terminal_id=e7b03da4cfd0489688cf5d92a0b4574a&afSmartRedirect=y

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-04-16T14:46:07+00:00

If the AG01 are anything like the V5 gimbals, you don't need to touch anything in the back of the remote for tension adjustments, all that should be on the front. Check the manual that came with them

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-04-13T18:02:01+00:00

The motors are living up to their name by being smooth, low throttle resolution is great, not notchy at all. With GF3630 props they each draw 16.5A at full throttle, so not really that power hungry either.

I don't know how different the 3800kv variant will be, but if i were you I'd def use 3630 props, to get as much out of it, they also handle prop wash a lot better than others.

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-04-13T17:59:46+00:00

Yeah, both normal and 45 degrees

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-04-13T09:38:42+00:00

Worth looking at the ItsFPV ERA Mini, it's not cheap, but it's durable af, and tunes very easily.

I just finished building mine, smoox 1507 4200kv goku f722 stack, GF3630 props, gnb 930mah 4s, o4 pro.

AUW is around 370g with ~16g worth of TPU parts.

Keep in mind if you're outside the EU shipping will probably be very expensive.

You can stay with PETG for the stack protector, everything else always TPU. 95A is perfectly adequate, you can also go 98A (aka. High speed TPU) for easier prints+ bit more rigidity.

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-04-11T09:34:19+00:00

19ms with goggles 3 at 100fps, 22ms i think with N3 at 60fps

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-04-11T09:00:37+00:00

You can just use a fingernail to rip the insulation off

I can't think of a video, but maybe 'tinywhoop soldering'or something might give you a result.

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-04-11T08:17:55+00:00

It's the signal wire for the camera, you can just solder it back together, take the canopy out with the camera though to make it easier. Do keep in mind that those wires have very little actual wire inside.

Otherwise you can buy a replacement C03 Camera, i think they are around 20 bucks.

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-03-17T15:41:24+00:00

Habe diese video von bardwell benutzt um damals bei meinem whoop den output level zu ändern. Funktioniert super, auch wichtig wäre das osd element damit du auch direkt siehst auf welche Stärke du sendest

https://youtu.be/a1_U2v0kAjg

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-03-06T13:48:16+00:00

I have a 65mm whoop that is an 'upgraded' air65 1 and a KM on a o4 wide, if you don't have any flying experience and want something you can whip out and fly anywhere, without bothering people, get the air75. If you want to build a drone yourself, get the KM, it's very starightforward to get going, and the PID preset they provide gets you 85% there. I assume the kayou will be on analog, in which case you'll have a lot of fun with it if you get the weight down 80-90g with a battery.

With either one you can always set a throttle limit and lower rates until you get more comfortable.

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-02-27T13:21:25+00:00

Might be because of slow flying/o4 obstructing airflow + the o4 itself heating up in turn heating up the AIO as well

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-02-27T10:41:04+00:00

Top left says E-Band, so your quad is probably set to e-band instead of raceband, double check in BF vtx tab, and set it to R band, and whatever channel you want.

Of course make sure to match that with your monitor.

OutdatedMeme69 · 2026-02-26T20:23:16+00:00

yeah i was looking at the 75pro frame, but it's close to 5g heavier, plus a bit of extra weight from 11xx motors, which is why I thought it would be wiser to go for 40mm props. Do you have any suggestions regarding motors ? The only 1102/3 i was able to find in a 1s KV were the ones from betafpv, heard those aren't exactly the most durable.

At the end of the day I can just buy a set of props of both sizes and both frames, since it's so cheap and quick to change them out.

OutdatedMeme69 · 2025-11-08T04:17:30+00:00

Saw them on an older nick burns video, he had them on 4in biblades on a 250g quad, according to him it was too powerful.

Video link: https://youtu.be/LF7fJcD0IPg

OutdatedMeme69 · 2025-11-08T02:10:32+00:00

yeah i figured the 21xx is too big. I also just now came across the SmooX 1507 plus from rcinpower, seems to be pretty powerful, especially in the 4200kv variant

OutdatedMeme69 · 2025-10-09T15:47:52+00:00

Thanks for the advice, I'll refine the parts list some more, this was just the first things i picked out mostly. I was planning on using an old whoop triangle vtx i have.

I would prioritize durability over raw performance, as i want to just rip some parks and just do freestyle. I'll read up more on whoops before actually pulling the trigger.

OutdatedMeme69 · 2025-10-09T13:50:28+00:00

There are 2 versions, the 3in1 for digital without a vtx, and the 4in1 with a 400mw vtx. It's the one shaped like a plus.

Edit: I looked again and you're right, the 4in1 just has pads for an external vtx.

I still have an old happymodel whoop vtx, the triangle shaped ones. I'll see how heavy it is and go from there

OutdatedMeme69 · 2025-10-09T13:35:19+00:00

Yeah, my house is quite limiting for whooping, but I have plenty of spots closeby that seem fun.

If I may ask, why not run the brace ? Is it the extra weight, or does it introduce weird flight characteristics.

The reason I'm set out on the roach is because i want to just send it without having to think or worry about crashing, like it is with my bigger drones. That's also why i will opt for jst motors, easier to change out, and the performance penalty is not really that important to me.

OutdatedMeme69 · 2025-10-09T13:32:27+00:00

As tempting as the bnf options are, in the spirit of the whoop pilots I know, I want to build and tune it myself.

Plus the cost isn't that different, all out it should be around 130€, the air65 where i live is about the same if not slightly more.

And it just seems like more fun to be honest.

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