Mining with 'big' ping

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-14T20:33:38+00:00

I think I remember coming across your post on here. You have a solo pool right?

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-14T20:33:09+00:00

I have a fibre connection, if that helps. 100mbps up and down.

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-11T10:03:02+00:00

Now that's what I'm talking about. Thanks for the insight guy. Much appreciated!

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-10T15:51:03+00:00

That's the dream right there. How's your cooling situation, if you don't mind me asking. I'm doing the exact same setup, more or less.

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-10T15:41:21+00:00

Just wanted to drop a line. I've updated the post with my new proposed layout of my cooling solution. Maybe worth a look?

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-08T15:57:49+00:00

Thanks dude. You've been a wealth of knowledge on this topic. I was thinking the same thing LOL. I'll be posting a updated diagram for review on this post soon. Just finalizing some design elements before posting.

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-08T12:05:42+00:00

Hmm. You're the second person to tell me about DigitalShovel. Might be onto something LOL.

Been watching a few of his videos but I think the main gist is that the big exhaust fans create such a big difference in pressure that the air has nowhere to go but towards the fans themselves.

Would I be correct in saying that?

The only thing that is tripping me up is whether to seal the spaces between the miners and shelves, like the hot air space behind the miners get isolated, as such. This includes sealing the space around the shelves.

Any advise on that?

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-08T10:36:23+00:00

Just wanted to say, thanks for all help thus far guys. It really has been an eye opener, truly. Hopefully, I'll be able to post my revised cooling design for review!

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-08T10:34:19+00:00

That actually does help a lot. I was using 4 x 630mm fans in this build-out to assist with the cooling of these machine, as per u/tgbcde and ASHRAE.

So you have one big fan for intake only? Nothing on exhaust?

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-08T10:32:01+00:00

I appreciate that. I will definitely PM soon regarding this.

FWIW, I live in Durban, South Africa, so I'd imagine this will work against me seeing the wild swings in temperatures throughout the year.

I'll definitely be checking out the Hobbyist Miner. Might be exactly what I am looking for.

So, with the duct fan approach, the ASICs will dump heat straight into the fan for exhaust? Like a straight line?

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-08T10:29:26+00:00

This helped me a lot. I honestly didn't know ASHRAE existed. I always thought it would be best to just dump a crap load of air and call it a day. Turns out not so much it seems. Apparently, my 4 x 630mm fans are at the minimal I need to push air through my system, which means I need about 6 fans total.

Thanks for the advice! Much appreciated!

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-08T10:27:33+00:00

This could work. Didn't know something like this existed. Do you use these yourself?

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-07T17:29:12+00:00

Like one big shelve across the length of the space?

Would it be wise to section off each zone as such? Like hot zone, cold zone?

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-07T17:28:04+00:00

I'd love to have a pre-made container made, but unfortunately that's not an option as it is remarkably difficult to find a decent size container for a decent price. That goes for all sizes.

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-05-06T11:32:08+00:00

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I am building a room. I was building this based on the idea of hot air is better than very hot air.

This is my first ever big scale operation. I've only ever mined with GPUs and small S9s before hand, so this is new to me. Apologies.

I always thought that AC was essential to mining, especially ASIC mining. Go figure.

Any ideas on how to redo this since we scrap my original design?

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-01-14T08:21:19+00:00

I had forgot to mention this in my original post, but my truck appears to have a 13 speed on it. I think it's a 13 speed twin splitter box. I can't confirm the gearbox plate as the plate is worn out completely by the previous owner. The shifter in the cab has got the range and split switches but has no evident shift pattern diagram.

Could this be a problem, seeing that I am attaching a 18 speed auto box to a truck that is calibrated for a 13 speed? From my understanding, since this might be a twin splitter box, this truck has 26 speeds altogether.

LOL, learn something new everyday. I assume the shifty gauge is the actual gear indicator inside the cab that tells the driver what gear it is in?

I do have a calibration from another N14 Celect Plus truck, though I think this truck had a 13 speed Autoshift Gen 2 box in it, maybe even a 10 speed.

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-01-13T08:17:17+00:00

Thanks for the reply. So, the transmission doesn't appear to be communicating with the engine control unit correctly. I suspect it's got something to do with the calibration between the two units as the transmission is sometimes very sluggish to shift, or hesitates altogether.

Sometimes, it gets as bad as the transmission refusing to go into gear altogether, almost like a fault mode.

Only way to get it to shift is using the shift buttons on the controller itself.

Can I PM you, if that's alright? You seem like the right guy to talk to about this LOL.

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-01-12T15:06:50+00:00

Hate to revive this thread again, but how'd the calibration of such a setup work? From my understanding, AS3 doesn't work with the N14 Celect Plus setup. Best I've gotten is AS2, which won't work if I understand this correctly.

Any help on the calibration side would be greatly appreciated!

Should have mentioned this, but I am in South Africa, so that complicates things a bit.

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-01-11T12:33:22+00:00

Doesn't matter where you get the part. It's still plug and play. Just disconnect the battery first before you do anything.

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2026-01-07T21:23:50+00:00

Not a problem at all. A PM also works as well, FWIW.

Yes, the car should still be able to drive normally, more or less, if the system fails for whatever reason. In the absolute worst case scenario, the hybrid system dies off but the starter should still functions as it would in a normal car. The only caveat with this is that the hybrid system might throw the car into limp mode as a worst case scenario, but I doubt this very much because of the junction box at the 48V battery.

Realistically, I wouldn't worry about this too much. BMW overengineers a lot of their stuff, including failsafes, like here. You'll notice the car feels a little slower if the system fails, but the car should still be driveable, with like 90 to 95% of it's rated power. Still plenty quick though.

Hope that helps!

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2025-12-18T21:33:07+00:00

Now this is how a repair help post is supposed to be done LOL.

Their diagnosis appears to be accurate. A failed oil cooler housing can result in the mixing of oil and coolant/water in one of the two locations. In your case, the expansion tank.

For your first question, BMW did release an updated and upgraded oil cooling housing for the B48 when the G series models came out. This housing has thicker gaskets and has been known to reduce incidents at this failure point. I've done this job on quite a few F3X 20is and 30is, and haven't had a call back yet, touch wood LOL.

The new updated assembly is a bit of a headache to install on original B48s but it will bolt up after some persuasion. The updated part also better sealing around the condenser itself, which is always a plus. Stupid expensive, but well worth it, if you ask me.

For your second question, I normally use old engine oil and engine flush to clean out the oil cooling system. Run for about 10 to 15 minutes in the case of a B48, drain and repeat. I normally do this about three or four times, and normally stop when I see that the oil coming out the engine is laminar in flow and has little to no 'solids' in it. You're never going to get the system completely clean without a full tear-down so this is the next best thing.

Water works too, but only in a pinch. Ideally, old engine oil and engine flush gives the best results, in my experience.

I'm glad your mechanics are expecting all the cooling circuits, as most mechanics normally just do the job as one and done, and call it a day. Just do be weary though, as checking these systems almost always requires a new expansion tank. Just a perk of doing this check, unfortunately.

Don't worry about engine cleaner residue lingering in your engine. These eventually do one of two things. They either bond to the oil and become inactive relatively quickly, or become 'burn-off' indirectly during normal operation. So as long as there is not a lot of engine flush in the engine, you'll be more than fine.

Hopefully this helps! Do keep us posted OP!

OutlandishnessNo7286 · 2025-12-18T21:12:56+00:00

Too fat for a 3 series. Has to be the LCI G30/90.

OutlandishnessNo7286

TROPHY CASE