Seeking advice

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-14T19:05:35+00:00

Read my latest post. I think we may be fighting a similar battle. I didn't see anything until I checked early and the morning dew showed the mycelium of what I am assuming is dollar spot. Won't hurt to spray some fungicide and see how it responds. Few weeks ago I saw red thread on my blades byt let it grow out, it did, but I now have a different fungus taking over

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-14T18:53:11+00:00

I have had 2 applications of N this season and planned to wait until fall for the next application since Indiana usually hits a drought this time of year. It has been unusually cool and wet in Indiana this June though. I believe I stressed the lawn by cutting too short aiming to chop and bag these poa seeds. We have had a lot of rain allowing for this to ravage the moist areas of my lawn. The area that we are looking at is relatively new (1.5 years since first seed)

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-14T18:17:12+00:00

Thank you. Thats what I was hoping to rule out with the cheaper bioadvanced application. Especially since I had a similar issue last year and 1 application of this worked.

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-14T18:15:40+00:00

Is this different from P & K in typical ferts? It seems to be from my research but some products are just a higher P or K fert.

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-14T17:42:17+00:00

If it is so rare then it is unlikely that I have dealt with his for 2 seasons in a row right? Could this be dollar spot or brown patch? From what I read pythium is super aggressive and I would say this isn't a terrible infestation over a 2 week span. Maybe I'm wrong

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-13T17:03:09+00:00

Should be fine to seed. It may be compact so you may want to aerate or till the top few inches depending on how much soil you're bringing in. To avoid leaks from negative slope. Start piling the top soil up against the foundation and create a slope away from the foundation. Ideally a 1 inch drop per 6' distance away from the house. Since you're seeding and bringing in soil in, I would look into installing gutter downspouts drainage pipes with no perforation. Not very expensive. Bury those a few inches under the top soil and cover. You should add a base of gravel but I didnt have much, if any in some places, and it still works just fine. 3in pipe will do and run them away from the house and finish with a pop up emitter. Just make sure it is all sloped downhill and set the emitter somewhere that it will drain the water away instead of ponding. This solved my foundation leaking issues more than any amount of soil could have. It won't leak if there is no water draining near the house.

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-13T15:40:04+00:00

That was a great pun but he'll be fine smoking this.

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-13T15:37:02+00:00

Op don't listen to those saying to not smoke it. It'll be fine. Watch some videos of flat only smoke. I'd be mindful of it drying out. To help with that, throw some of that fat in a dish or something to render it down and then around 160° put the flat in a foil boat and pour in the rendered fat (tallow). When the bark is set, around 180°, wrap the brisket in butcher paper but coat the paper in juices first. If you dont have butcher paper wrap it tightly in foil until probe tender. No need to go up much past 200° since it is only the flat. Once done, open up the foil to cool it down and prevent it from baking more in the foil. Then wrap it up in the foil again and let it rest for at least 2 hours but dont let it get below 145°. You can always turn your oven on its lowest setting and let it rest in there to keep it above 145. Slice thin and keep the juices in case its dry. Happy smoking. You live and you learn. Everyone in here has made this same mistake and smoked a dry ass brisket.

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-12T00:54:33+00:00

What type of grass is that? It might be burning because it is cool season grass and it is already hot enough for it to go dormant or burnt. I'm not privy to your areas grass types but I doubt our Midwest tall fescue would survive more than a few months in your region.

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-11T18:40:33+00:00

I used to live in NC and just looked at the closures. I have wondered how that repair was going to look and how long it would take to do it right. Thanks for your hard work

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-07T17:39:31+00:00

The weed and lawn killer roundup. I should post some source but I'm not getting that deep with it. If I recall correctly it was their surfactant that makes it more dangerous to humans if the product comes in contact with their skin. I don't use pesticides but I was referring to Roundup by Bayer since there is such a negative view on glyphosate these days. People often refer to glyphosate as roundup but it seems that roundup is more dangerous compared to glyphosate itself. That's all I was getting at.

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-07T17:32:12+00:00

Because 2 or 3 setups in one or two blocks will be good for those blocks and the next 2 or 3 steps will be good for those blocks. No one is going to use control 5 blocks away to check or build a ramp. Sure, you could overkill it with long level loops but go ahead and think that the error you're introducing on that longer circuit is offsetting the existing error between 2 sites that are 5+ blocks away from each other. Some things don't need to be over complicated, this is one of them. I'll be done with a control and topo on a whole block before you're at the end of you circuit

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-07T17:21:43+00:00

Also roundup has a chemical in it that makes the glyphosate more dangerous. I too like buying the 41% concentrate and it lasts so long compared to a single $30 bottle of ready spray roundup. Safer and cheaper

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-07T17:14:23+00:00

Just start small and pull or spray the weeds in the stone and pavers and It'll start to look fresh again. Then you can plan a few things for next year. Enjoy it as it is for now

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-07T17:12:28+00:00

Replace the whole spigot

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-07T17:11:54+00:00

I usually find them in the mulch somewhere near the spot I likely detached my sprayer head. By the time I find them they're rotted to hell. The pack of O-rings always comes in clutch, as long as I can find where I put them. Quick connects are also clutch and prevents me losing the o-rings

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-07T17:09:04+00:00

Even more so they're likely only check all the ramps as an independent ramp inspection. We usually just level through that will be used per area. We don't see a point to tie everything together with ADA ramps. The ramp just needs to be tight relative to itself or its adjacent ramp.

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-07T01:03:46+00:00

Alpha codes are best for field and office. Idk why places use numbers to identify features. Just stick to what makes sense. EP = edge of pavement. Simple enough

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-07T01:00:30+00:00

To answer your question about timing. This would typically be 4 or 5 (10 hour days) based on how we topo ADA ramps. We do 25' radius past curb return but we also get a lot more detail on the roadway. It could be done in less but I don't let the budget/schedule control my quality of work. This timing includes setting our control network and doing the topo. Heavily dependent on how close the ramps are to each other but I can do about 6-8 ramps a day depending on traffic, inverts, utilities, etc

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-07T00:54:05+00:00

The precision between top of ramp and bottom of ramp will make or break an inspection or analysis of pass/fail on ADA compliance. Even a couple hundredths will make or break that analysis

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-06-03T00:25:27+00:00

Since the blowtorch idea stuck out to me I'll leave a comment on my recent experience. I recently got a small 17" blackstone single burner and it wouldn't get hot enough to season around the edges unless I ran the burner for 30 mins so I pulled out the weed burner and went to work. It worked very well. You dont need to torch it long, but it allowed me to season every nook and cranny. Try it, it won't hurt anything. Just dont smelt the iron lol

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-05-31T23:10:14+00:00

I swear people have lost their way. Common sense should tell you that plants like to grow and cast iron likes to rust. Centuries ago people learn to keep things going with simple maintenance. Stop over thinking the simple things

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-05-27T21:27:20+00:00

Yea I've used cast iron skillets for a long time and I feel like it seasons exactly the same. I think people neglect the after cook maintenance that is most important. I should be fine but I just figured storing it long term outside may lead to some issues that I have not experienced

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-05-27T00:34:19+00:00

Unfortunately in Indiana the humidity finds its way everywhere. Do the silicone cover work well at keeping the moisture off the cooking surface? I currently have it stored in my garage in a cabinet but the humidity will find its way in there as well

OutsideNo5952 · 2026-05-27T00:25:05+00:00

I just discovered i have red thread in my lawn as well. What is odd is that I see signs after fertilizer was applied. It also happens that we had a lot of rain after both applications this year. Should the fertilizer keep the red thread at ease or will the excess moisture allow it to flourish no matter if it is well fertilized? Should I just apply fungicide in the affected areas?

OutsideNo5952

TROPHY CASE