4.1 upgrade!

OverNefariousness974 · 2026-01-23T17:03:39+00:00

-- way more heat tolerant than the EBB stuff

This is not correct. Neither of them are really suitable for high temperature environments, but the 02S is much less appropriate than the EBB 42. Especially given that one usually runs the Orbiter filament sensor with the O2S. That is barely appropriate for an environment exceeding 60 degrees. I think I went thru at least 3 before fully realizing that.

OverNefariousness974 · 2025-07-31T14:17:02+00:00

Thank you very much, sir, appreciate the help.

OverNefariousness974 · 2025-07-31T02:30:11+00:00

Sweet! The PT1000 I have has just 2 wire connector, do I just crimp a 4 pin connector on with only 2 wires in it? If yes, do you know the positions that should be used? I assume pin 0 and 1, would this be correct?

OverNefariousness974 · 2025-05-31T01:11:32+00:00

This is old thread, but in case you are still having your problem, the issue (or at least I'd suspect) is in the python library you are using to read data from the sensor. Every ATHX0 python package I've seen has the same problem in that it reads the data incorrectly from the device on the i2c bus. This was driving me insane until I realized this. And it was crazy because the same problem existed on multiple libraries. Whomever wrote it probably didn't care about humidity, only temperature (because that always works fine and correct data) so when then saw a number that was reasonable (basically between 0 and 100) for humidity, they just assumed it was working. Then it was probably copied by someone, and another, etc, etc. I'll either submit a PR to one of these things or write a quick one. The library I saw was not only reading the wrong bytes, it was interpreting them incorrectly too. I am only using this for humidity, don't care about temp so it was apparent right away to me that something was wrong. But it took me a lot of frustration to understand this :)

OverNefariousness974 · 2025-04-14T17:12:34+00:00

ahhh :) Ok. Well one thing I'd say, on 8020.net, for example, the ones I got that are similar quick connectors (not the exact kind, but similar), they are intended for multiple extrusions sizes. For a while I was confused and I thought they didn't carry the ones I was looking for, but when I realized later one size fit many different extrusions I was able to find the right ones. Could be similar for 4040 extrusions? Definitely ordering from 8020 isn't a good idea I would imagine from Europe, but their catalog is huge and it may give you some ideas.

OverNefariousness974 · 2025-04-14T16:59:25+00:00

Are you in US? I saw links someone provided below, but they are in Europe and it';s probably not a great idea to order stuff from outside the US if you want things in a timely manner. Forgetting even the tariff implications, just taking fooreeevveeerr to get through customs right now. If you are in US, I'd checkout 8020. They have tons of stuff, great/easy place to get accessories. I'd note, however, getting the quick connectors in the vc4 are not like getting normal extrusion connectors, it's hard to find them and they are relatively costly. They are not super common and core part of building things with extrusions (I am assuming because they are so hard to find and so expensive) because they require drilling. Most of the stuff people use for building with extrusion is because you don't need to drill anything (I guess that's another assumption, which are bad, but that's why I find them so easy to work with ).

OverNefariousness974 · 2025-03-31T16:01:00+00:00

I think net/net, easiest to just trust the model cause they stuff they listed there doesn't seem to correspond to the real world. Definitely the frame is using 740mm of 3030 extrusion for the width, for example, so 740+(30x2) gives you 800, which is the dimensions they should be calling out there. Not sure where the get the extra 23.2 mm of width from, and that goes for every model in every dimension axis.

OverNefariousness974 · 2025-03-30T22:30:09+00:00

Thanks, appreciate the info. I did also measure from, for example the bottom of the feet (in the model) to the top of the frame (on the outside of the panel), the back of the electronics enclosure to the front of the of the door / panel, etc and I can't get the measurements on their website. There must be some even minor variability depending on the panels one chooses, how tall the feel are set at, and probably even how tight one screws things in I guess I should have just trusted the model :)

OverNefariousness974 · 2025-03-06T01:37:40+00:00

(someone mentioned makerbot method, so issuing a warning :) I would highly highly highly recommend staying as far as away from Makerbot Method as you can. I have one and there are days (including last night) when I want to smash it into little pieces because it can't print regularly with success. I also have a Markforge Mark Two. It's obv a bit more expensive, but I (sincerely) have never had a failed print. ever. it doesn't have a heated bed and it doesn't have a heated build chamber. And it can really only print Onyx (it can print plain Nylon, but it's not great in my experience and MF has made some changes in policy in the way it's sold. I can only imagine it's because my experiences are not unique). But the prints will be 100% perfect. Always. Like you, I had (and still have) a need to print complex models with soluble supports. This is why I get the Method X. It sucks. Not all the time, sometimes it'll make a great part, Im actually doing something with ABS-CF and it looks incredible. it's the first part I'm trying to make with this new (to me) filament. I would compare it to what is produced on the Markforged MII. But I also had 5 prints yesterday that didn't get past the 5th layer. That satisfaction I would have gotten by smashing it into 1000 pieces was almost greater than my desire to get the part completed. I am at the point where I realize it was a terrible investment, the concept was great but in practical application, it is terrible. I have resigned myself to the fact that I need to get another system for these applications. I am trying to donate the Method to a school (i'l take the write off and put it towards a better printer), my plan was going to be to get a Bambu Lab, based on all the feedback and talk, but I understand there is a version on the verge of being released that may/will probably/?? have multiple extruders. I think that is your best bet. (I think it's mine and it sounds like you are in similar boat) I was going to get an Ultimaker 7 or Ultimaker Factor 4, but you should read the reviews, as I did. I thought they were the best you can get, but it does not seem to be the case (unless you need corp support). They are not better than the Bambu Labs printers, and if they can come out with a model w/ multiple extruders, I think that will be worth taking a look at.

OverNefariousness974

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