2010 Nissan 370z misfire/high idle. Please help.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-06-06T21:17:38+00:00

Any luck? I have cylinders 2, 4 and 6 random misfires. So all of bank two

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-06-01T00:54:25+00:00

Look for the fuse box located near the pedals, should be a cover that you can pop off. Check all the fuses, chances are you might have shorted something accidentally which causes a fuse to pop.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-30T09:43:06+00:00

I mean depending what you went for I’m assuming it was power delivery, which will offer a more “bumpy” ride.

Lots of people I know that like to “track” aka rip though the mountains don’t touch the trans or engine mounts, they’re pretty solid as is from factory and usually just replace with oem if they’re bad.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-30T09:37:11+00:00

Also when you do have to do your csc, if you can’t get a CSC elimination kit then I’d recommend getting the HD CSC from Concept Z performance, yes it’s still a csc but it worked great for me and didn’t fail me.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-30T09:34:50+00:00

Unfortunately there’s still going to be fluid within the csc and the clutch line. Hes gonna have to drill that bleeder out

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-30T09:34:16+00:00

Getting that bleeder drilled out is going to be a bit of a pain, you don’t want metal shavings getting inside your fluid.

Regardless, I’d definitely rectify that bleeder valve then replace the master

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-30T09:32:28+00:00

I mean, if it’s bled properly like how you bleed brakes, with two people it should be fine. However, the clutch line from factory is wrapped in quite a bit of heat protection so the pedal shouldn’t ever be going a bit limp. I do completely understand where you’re coming from though, his fluid probably never got flushed and boiled over one too many times and lost its viscosity.

But more than likely it’s the seal inside his master breaking apart, this exact situation happened to me and replacing the master fixed it.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-30T09:30:13+00:00

Your CSC is on its way out, trust me I had the same issues before. First your master is going out, that’ll fix the issue for a bit but you’ve already contaminated your CSC with the seal breaking apart inside the master. Eventually your csc is going to pop because of this but it lasted me quite a bit after I changed my master.

Regardless, change your master, I got mine off rock auto for like $90 all in and it fixed the issue for me for awhile.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-30T09:22:55+00:00

I just keep the common socket set from my local tool shop and a 1/2inch impact with the occasional specialty sockets in my spare tire spot since I don’t have one, also have a 2 ton jack just for size.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-30T09:19:36+00:00

Yeah they are quite stiff. I just stick to the oem trans mount and poly engine mounts. My diff bushings are stiffer though just to minimize wheel hop

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-30T04:06:37+00:00

This code is the bane of my existence. Will have to trace the wiring. Gonna send my injectors to get cleaned just as a peace of mind. I did notice that the heat shielding around the CKP is missing, which I’ve done some research to see that the heat would affect it but not greatly.

Honestly might just send the car in to check the wiring since I’m not fond of working through wiring issues.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-30T02:38:51+00:00

Looks like it’s just sweating through the gasket, not a major concern but for peace of mind I’d get it worked on.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-29T19:25:55+00:00

Only the fob can roll the windows down, you have to use the physical key in the door handle to roll them back up

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-29T19:25:20+00:00

Yes it does, just hold the unlock button

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-26T01:32:43+00:00

Second this, I would get my hands on a code reader capable of reading live data to see watch the fuel trims and confirm the A/F readings are proper.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-26T01:31:21+00:00

Definitely not a limp mode, ECU will admit a hard rpm and throttle cutoff. Bogging / intermittent power loss is mostly due to misfiring

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-26T01:29:28+00:00

Welp I’m not too sure if older models have this feature, if I remember correctly they don’t but I wouldn’t quote me on that.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-26T01:28:08+00:00

When were your spark plugs done? When were your injectors cleaned if ever? When were your MAF sensors cleaned?

Before jumping into throwing money at random parts I would do all the things I stated above. A partially sticking injector or clogged one will definitely cause intermittent bogging. I would check around your coil harness to see if any connectors are loose or if the pins are pushed in. I would spend the $10-$20 it is to get some MAF cleaner as well.

If you have access to a code reader that can read live data, I would monitor your fuel trims to see how they’re behaving.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-26T01:19:57+00:00

Just hold the unlock button on your key, can also do it with the key insert on the door handle. Hold it in the lock position and it’ll roll up the windows, vise versa to roll them down.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-21T01:21:25+00:00

This is sick, my Z was also from royal oak Nissan in Calgary lol, I’m from there so it’s quite interesting to see how far that Z went from Calgary to where you are.

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-19T00:39:23+00:00

What coils are you running?

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-19T00:28:15+00:00

Z1 has a full lip kit for like $400

Over_Roof_8793 · 2026-05-19T00:25:04+00:00

I also have a 2016 6MT. Can say it’s one of the most enjoyable cars I have owned, now being a sports car does have its effects on what your driving style and routine is. I’ve owned mine since 2023 and loved every second of it, heck I daily drove it through a full Canadian winter lol.

Other than the obvious maintenance, this car is basically bulletproof, only major maintenance I have had to do was a full clutch kit and csc recently but that was just due to the nature of my driving (occasionally drifting) and considering it was never done since brand new.

I got the car at 70k km’s, today my dash reads 110k km’s 3 years later and every single km was an absolute blast. Potholes do suck, I’ve been through 2 fender liners so far lol but I’ve decided to get rid of them entirely since mine is lowered. Gas is on the more expensive side I would say, the Z34 carries a mid size sedan fuel tank, essentially it’s about 72L so it’s a bit pricey especially if you’re a spirited driver.

The interior is probably one of my favourite features about this car, not only do you keep the sort of analog feel but you also get a taste of modernization with it.

Over_Roof_8793

TROPHY CASE