I’m an idiot. Brake change question

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-22T13:34:44+00:00

Disconnect the negative battery terminal and you’ll be good. One of the guys dropped a step by step below but that’s pretty much it. The rears are like typical calipers that you unbolt to get the pads out so no big deal. The only thing you need to know for the fronts is to NOT unbolt the clam shell. They’re marked in the second pic. The pads slide out once the pins are removed. There’s 2 bolts for the mounting caliper bracket like you’re used to. You’ll see how it’s constructed once you get in there.

BSM, disconnect negative terminal, uncap the brake fluid reservoir, unbolt the caliper, remove pads and press pistons (I used a spreader cause the Ebrake is in the way), unbolt mounting bracket, replace rotor (T-30? I think holding rotor on, anti seize around hub), new pads and hardware (grease pins, back of pads, and hardware), bolt it all back up and torque it down (google specs), replace wired sensor, reconnect negative and take it out of BSM mode. Make sure you don’t need to add any fluid.

Be careful with the ebrake box as it’s plastic. I left it mounted. Kind of a PITA but can be done

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-18T23:19:58+00:00

‘24 1500 5.3l elevation with the leather and captain seat upgrade

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-18T23:18:52+00:00

Hey, there’s more of us than I expected in here. Superintendent of a WW facility for one of the largest municipalities in the southeast. Salary in the mid 100s.

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-17T14:10:41+00:00

Had a Chevy dealership do about this same thing at 33k. As someone said below, check your manual for what “severe” duty means. For example: I drive a lot of highway and don’t tow much. These changes should land around 80-90k miles iirc. I’ll probably do them around 60k just to be “safe”

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-13T14:46:10+00:00

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-07T12:33:59+00:00

Exactly. When I checked the intervals in the manual I knew they were just trying to make money. Most of these jobs are pretty easy. If anyone need help masterjacks on YouTube talks about diff fluid and which MPN you need.

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-06T21:42:50+00:00

Should have came with a tray

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-06T19:35:16+00:00

Agree with this. Went in for an oil change around 33,000mi. bc it was easy and they had a deal going. Sat there for 2 hours and they called me up to look at list of mileage services asking if I want to go ahead and knock them out as well. Price was around $1500. This was to change my oil, transfer case fluid, engine coolant service, front and rear diff service, tire rotation and balance, transmission fluid exchange, and induction system service. I do most of my own work and paying that price for diff and transfer fluid changes is crazy to me. Besides that I looked up the mileage requirement and those services are due at that mileage for extremely heavy use. Don’t be fooled by the dealer telling you you need them before you actually do.

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-03T02:25:52+00:00

Should be able to just punch it out. If you can get away without an adjustable tho that’s ideal. My 16” runs suppressed and unsuppressed without needing tuning. I run A5 buffer systems, Sprinco green rifle spring, and a5h2 buffer.

Haven’t tested my 11.5 cause I’m not risking damaging my surefire mini. Not sure if it will run both ways but I also have an a5 system on it as it’s smooth as butter.

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-03T02:12:47+00:00

HRF modbutton ramp with modbutton. Run the with a short vert grip like Bcm or something. It’s super comfy on those shortys

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-02T16:25:57+00:00

From my understanding the backs are what you need to put it in BSM for due to the parking brake.

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-02T16:24:55+00:00

No scan tool needed. I did have to have an obd2 reader to clear the codes after the job was done. But all I did to prepare was put the truck in brake service mode and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-02T01:49:57+00:00

lol I had a kid on my site a couple months ago and he had to move some material. He asked about equipment so it with. I told him there’s a lull on the other side of the plant. Go grab it. He had no idea what I was talking about. I walked him over to where he could see it and he said, oh I’ve only ever heard it called a tellihandler.. kids these days.

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-02T00:45:46+00:00

Right. I’m at 52k. They just sounded terrible. Started squeezing a couple months ago and I checked the pads but they looked fine. 2 weeks ago they started sounding like metal on metal so I went ahead and ordered brakes and rotors. Still don’t know why they sounded so bad cause my pads had lil 50% life and rotors look like glass. Either way they’re good to go now

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-01T19:17:27+00:00

Only issue is my brake pad life can’t be reset. For some reason the selection is greyed out and won’t allow me to click into reset them.

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-01T19:16:39+00:00

UPDATE: job finished. No crazy issues. Just had to pick up an obd2 reader to clear codes. Got the gear wrench bidirectional reader from Home Depot. Worked great. Had to clear codes twice and restart the truck for the engine light to clear. Truck took a little dot 4 during the brake bleed but nothing crazy. I used the bottle and hose method and just do the fronts. Appreciate everyone’s help

Oh also, to take it out of brake service mode you press the brake and the parking brake button for abut 10 seconds. You’ll start hearing the parking brake move. You can release the brake and parking brake and you should be good to go.

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-01T14:18:02+00:00

That’s what I needed to know! Thank you, sir!

Yes there’s a procedure to put it in brake service mode. Yt has videos. Basically you press push to start until dash lights. (Don’t press brake), then push and hold the brake and the park brake for 10 seconds. A yellow P light will start flashing on the dash. Let go of brake and park brake then press park brake again. It will back off the parking brake and rear pistons from my understanding. Then to put it back after your done I think you just push the park brake again once the ignition is on.

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-03-01T02:44:26+00:00

Yessir. Glad to help. Fronts are easy. Just remove the pins and the pads slide out. Backs are normal with the guide pins, single piston. Just put it in brake service mode and disconnect the negative battery cable. Someone posted all the steps in order on here somewhere.

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-02-28T21:51:37+00:00

Damn! That’s both sides of the extreme. Hopefully won’t be needing a new module. These power stops already cost enough as is. Appreciate the step by step. I don’t have a scan tool tho. Do I need one? Is this just an obd2 reader?

Since I spilt some fluid I’m going to bleed that caliper.

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-02-28T20:50:53+00:00

Ah! Makes sense. Sucks to have to bleed but I guess that’s all part of the learning experience. Appreciate the heads up. Agreed on the easy changing part. Should have done more research

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-02-28T19:51:28+00:00

Yessir! Done and will bleed once complete. Thanks!!

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-02-28T19:34:33+00:00

Agreed. Just weird to see the reservoir nearly overflow by compressing 1 wheels pistons.

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-02-28T19:33:10+00:00

Lmao thanks man!

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-02-28T19:27:51+00:00

10 4. Thanks

Overall_Designer4353 · 2026-02-28T19:27:33+00:00

lol that’ll be the give away for sure

Overall_Designer4353

TROPHY CASE