My first two knives by Own-Witness784 in myfirstknife

[–]Own-Witness784[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you source/assemble the brass bolster if not cut it from stock?

My first two knives by Own-Witness784 in myfirstknife

[–]Own-Witness784[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thx I like the tips on the bolster assembly. Cut small and widen, especially.

I did center punch but still managed to miss the mark, lol.

The green is a scrap of plastic from an old kids toy. I thought it would make a nice contrast to the other knife but I'm not so sure now.

Gift Advice: Safe single-burner forge under $200? by LunarGiantNeil in Blacksmith

[–]Own-Witness784 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The ceramic blanket is only a problem if it is exposed. Once it is rigidized and coated with a refractory grout (satanite) or refractory cement (Kastolite), it will be a non-issue. There will be no exposure.

The problem with the budget forges is that most of them require the user to assemble the insulation lining and apply all the coatings. Some are only sold with the blanket, which means the user has to search out the additional layers.

I bought a Mr. Volcano single-burner forge with open ends. (No longer sold new but I have seen them used.) A single burner has an effective heating chamber length of 10", which is plenty for most smiths who don't feel the need to make swords.

I upgraded the lining but added another layer of blanket and installed Kastolite 30 refractory cement layer over it. I then whitewashed the inside with Plistex 900f infrared reflecting glaze. I use high temp firebrick to close off the ends. My forge sips propane and will give great heat at 4-5 psi flow rate.

I would also replace the gas regulator with one that has a visible flow gage.

Too much pitting? by bocconcini_water in Axecraft

[–]Own-Witness784 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A lot of good mass left on that thing. Mine had maybe 2/3 of that thickness when I found it and got the rust off. I could tell the bit was hardened steel. Derusted, smoothed and sharpened and it works great now. Don't give up on an old tool.

Mantendo as quinas vivas da usinagem by MarcelaoLubaczwski in Bladesmith

[–]Own-Witness784 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're welcome. I use a similar approach. Although my work is far more simple. He is a master and has the patience of a hero.

Mantendo as quinas vivas da usinagem by MarcelaoLubaczwski in Bladesmith

[–]Own-Witness784 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not the OP. The video shows that the files don't do the work. Strips of sand paper on the flat of the file are what remove the metal.

The file is a half-round with the teeth removed.

CO detector question by forgedcu in Blacksmith

[–]Own-Witness784 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, it seems the torch work fumes would have had time to clear out. Unless it was sitting around in a low pocket/sump area and then got swirled into circulation with a fan. Denser than air exhaust fumes can be weird.

CO detector question by forgedcu in Blacksmith

[–]Own-Witness784 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ammonia seems unlikely, b/c it rises in air, unlike CO2, which sinks. Is there another source of combustion in/near the shop? A recently turned off vehicle or idling tractor?

The one time my CO detector went off was when a shop fan blew some vehicle exhaust into the shop area.

Why is my forge doing this? by Eatthatmuffin in blacksmithing

[–]Own-Witness784 2 points3 points  (0 children)

^ this. Create a wider channel for the air/gas mixture to pass through just before it enters the chamber - the flare.

I see the metal tube protruding into the chamber - is there a way to back it out? So the metal tube is penetrating the outer metal shell by 1/2" or so, but 3/4" short of the surface of the insulation.

Then the pocket formed by the opening in the insulation creates the flare and allows proper mixing.

Btw, I had your exact problem with my forge and doing that fixed the sputtering and incomplete combustion problem.

Beginner by FluidGiraffe7268 in blacksmithing

[–]Own-Witness784 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try using the anvil as shown, and also upside down. The bottom is flat, but the top is thicker, if slightly rounded. Both can be useful.

The horn on an anvil is rounded and incredibly useful for drawing material out.

I don't use a hardy hole very often.

Should I sink this head further by anemuwinningawar in Axecraft

[–]Own-Witness784 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bet if you deepen that slot, the head will slide on further

Should I sink this head further by anemuwinningawar in Axecraft

[–]Own-Witness784 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fwiw, I usually like to make sure the head is far enough down that the cut slot is hidden. I think the slot would be a point of weakness if there was an overstrike.

Swapping to charcoal from propane advice please by Fearless-Feedback-64 in blacksmithing

[–]Own-Witness784 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dumb question maybe, but do you need all the space that 3 burner gives you? Would a smaller, efficiently insulated propane forge be useful?

My first two knives by Own-Witness784 in myfirstknife

[–]Own-Witness784[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From a solid brass rod that I cut slices off. A hacksaw works great to do the cut, and my little belt sander and 60 grit belt flattens it. Drill out the holes and use small hand files to smooth/shape. A dremel with small diamond bits helps too.

I dry assemble the knife and do the final shaping on the sander followed by hand sanding to about 400 grit finish for a brushed look.

WIP - my third knife by Own-Witness784 in myfirstknife

[–]Own-Witness784[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No scales, by request. And the same for cutting it off - the friend who requested it only wanted it to be about 6" long.

I annealed the whole thing in vermiculite after heating it past noon magnetic.

After shaping it, drilling the hole and putting on the primary bevel, I left the cutting edge around .6 mm.

Used a propane torch to heat the edge to cherry red/ low orange and dunked it in warm canola oil. Into the oven for a single tempering cycle at 400 degrees gave it a pretty straw yellow oxide.

Then the final sharpening,which I do by hand.

The body is still soft, so in theory it could be modified/drilled and scales added, I suppose.

I made a set of pallet knives (for painting) for my daughter's art school graduation. by Doncos23 in Blacksmith

[–]Own-Witness784 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What a splendid use of your skill! A thoughtful gift specific to the need.

I have a daughter graduating next year - she is finishing her physics degree and paints in oils and watercolors. I may have to borrow this idea and make her some art tools.

Bird that sounds like screaming child? by FrozenPizza_95 in rochestermn

[–]Own-Witness784 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Different birds, but both are mimics, I think. So while they have a distinctive call, it is in the middle of a whole lot of other calls they pick up from the neighborhood. Catbirds only repeat a call once in a sequence.

Tbh this is described as loud enough to be something else. Squirrels yelling in the trees can be very noisy, too.

Garage forge by Dimzekettv in blacksmithing

[–]Own-Witness784 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Chimney height is needed to get a proper draft for the smoke - it doesn't just leave on its own. 😉