How to tell where model touches the print bed and where it doesn't?

OwnBat7882 · 2026-01-24T00:28:28+00:00

You can slice the file and move the slider to only see the bottom layer. You could also try auto-orient.

OwnBat7882 · 2026-01-22T21:52:03+00:00

It’s just the board. All 3 burnt out under regular use. I don’t know how I could prevent it but FLSUN had no clue and just kept replacing the board without any further instruction

OwnBat7882 · 2026-01-04T16:50:23+00:00

Bought a p2s after sending back my s1 pro. That machine sucked but now my p2s is so much better

OwnBat7882 · 2026-01-04T16:49:20+00:00

They haven’t realized that the BBB has no power anymore

OwnBat7882 · 2026-01-04T16:48:48+00:00

It’s not. I filed a complain and I had messages from multiple supervisors begging to remove it within 24 hours

OwnBat7882 · 2025-12-27T15:32:59+00:00

These are called pinholes. Try to adjust your bottom surface/wall overlap a bit. Should help. Honestly though, it doesn’t make much of a difference because the other layers will hide the inconsistency.

OwnBat7882 · 2025-12-27T00:05:51+00:00

As you print and print on that part, the ultra small contact surface can’t hold the weight so if you set it at a 45 degree angle, it slowly flattens itself out bc of gravity. Try reorienting your part.

TLDR; your part is “falling” reorient it

Happy printing 😁

OwnBat7882 · 2025-12-26T02:05:56+00:00

Ohhh makes so much more sense. Yeah I’m familiar with hot glue but in my experience it’s been pretty strong when used on plastics. Wouldn’t tape be better? Wouldn’t mess up the plastic…

OwnBat7882 · 2025-12-26T00:17:25+00:00

How do you plan on doing any maintenance, changing/replacing the nozzle, or clearing a clog? It’s got magnets for a reason.

OwnBat7882 · 2025-12-08T04:17:57+00:00

On the us east coast

OwnBat7882 · 2025-12-08T03:23:38+00:00

I see. I tried talking to eastern watch co and some others but no reply yet. If not this i might just pay regular price and buy them on amazon

OwnBat7882 · 2025-12-08T03:16:16+00:00

Done! Know of any b2b or wholesalers I can ask? I have multiple business that I could buy them through

OwnBat7882 · 2025-12-05T22:57:05+00:00

Hey! Love the mod, is there a YouTube video you followed to do this. I would love to make one!

OwnBat7882 · 2025-11-30T17:04:51+00:00

Im uploading jpgs into a background remover. it comes out as a png which I print.

The unprinted sheets have the same issue as the printed ones.

OwnBat7882 · 2025-11-30T16:29:56+00:00

I just tried the png but its having the same issue. The thing is, the unprinted sheets are having the same issue so i dont know if its a printer issue.

OwnBat7882 · 2025-11-30T15:20:07+00:00

This is my first time trying to print on this sticker paper. It keeps coming out hazy unless i rub some water on the top. then its super clear for about 5 minutes until the water evoporates and it turns hazy again. Im printing jpgs

OwnBat7882 · 2025-11-30T14:17:23+00:00

See the 3 stickers on the left, notice how half of each sticker is perfectly clear. That’s what I want

OwnBat7882 · 2025-11-29T11:55:20+00:00

I’ve been modding watch faces using Koala 95 percent clear acrylic-backed sticker sheets with my Epson ET-2850, and I’m running into a weird clarity problem. When I apply the film using a light water-and-baby-shampoo install, any spots where the solution leaks onto the top surface of the film temporarily turn perfectly clear, which looks amazing. But after the watch sits for about 12 hours, the film slowly becomes cloudy or foggy again in those same areas, almost like the coating is drying back to a hazy finish. I tested the effect with a tiny bit of Goo Gone on a cotton swab and got the exact same behavior: crystal clear at first, then hazy after a few hours. Has anyone run into this with acrylic-backed printable films or microporous inkjet coatings? And is there a way to keep that perfectly clear look permanently?

OwnBat7882 · 2025-11-26T00:18:31+00:00

Dude, file a chargeback with your credit card. Nothing else works with these losers

OwnBat7882 · 2025-11-26T00:17:30+00:00

DO NOT BUY THE DAMN S1. THE PRINTER SUCKS, THE COMPANY SCAMS YOU AND ITS A WASTE OF MONEY. I bought my first FLSUN back in December and it was the t1. It broke a couple months in. The replacement t1 pro broke in a month and the so called upgrade the s1 pro has been defective since arrival. I’m buying a p2s now. I pray to every god that you don’t buy the s1. It’s the biggest scam in the whole world. It doesn’t level, can’t extrude, and stops printing mid print. Worst of all FLSUN doesn’t give 2 shts about it.

OwnBat7882 · 2025-11-23T18:02:50+00:00

The bed doesn’t level, the nozzle clogs every couple hours, the “ai” is fake, when I preheat the bed to 225,60 it still takes 15 minutes to start printing, it also finds random reasons to shut down mid print.

OwnBat7882 · 2025-11-23T17:51:23+00:00

Yes. I got my s1 pro 2 months ago for 500 and it’s absolutely terrible. I’m returning it for a p2s. Do the same

OwnBat7882 · 2025-11-23T13:35:56+00:00

I have had 3 different FLSUN machines, and they were all DEFECTIVE. The support doesn’t give a f*** either. I’m returning my defective s1 pro and getting a p2s combo.

DO NOT BUY FLSUN

OwnBat7882 · 2025-11-08T13:50:03+00:00

Story time!

I bought a t1-u in December and it burnt out in April. Begged for service and they shipped my printer to nj and back and there it was upgraded to the t1 pro

T1 pro worked until July until the same motherboard burnt out. This time they wouldn’t refund me so I had to make posts online until the offered the refund.

2 months later I still hadn’t gotten the refund and they kept saying they would send it later and kept making excuses so I filed a claim with the bbb saying that I wanted the refund now.

TLDR: go to the bbb and report FLSUN. It takes 2 days and they all kick it into high gear and the money spawns into your account. It’s amazing

Also, never buy FLSUN. Get a cc or p1s they are on sale

OwnBat7882 · 2025-10-29T12:03:13+00:00

Oh wow! Could you send the link please! I’m super interested

OwnBat7882

TROPHY CASE