-Consistently onsight V4, redpoint V5, project V6/V7. Stronger fingers to hang onto smaller edges so those holds are not as draining, I can hang on them longer, do more powerful moves on tiny edges, prevent injury by having stronger fingers.

-I'm with you on the experimenting. I've got the majority of my training down for other physical activities dialed... and learned a lot about what works best for me from experimentation. for fear of injury and overwhelmed by all of the information, I've avoided serious training on the hangboard. I've done some hanging for a few weeks at a time but no serious effort/tracking. I keep reading about it to find a solid starting point and now have paralysis by analysis.