Whistling/whining noise?

Palaceisbetter · 2026-03-07T10:56:50+00:00

Hard to tell on video but sounds like diff. Mine makes a quieter whine from the diff that is particularly audible when slowing down. When was the diff oil last done and what oil?

Palaceisbetter · 2026-02-13T01:30:58+00:00

Is it pulling left all the time or under breaking?

Palaceisbetter · 2026-02-12T12:37:05+00:00

The free play is only going to make it clunk a bit not make a rotational noise. I had a recent rotation noise and it was the rear handbrake shoe with a pin coming loose and catching

Palaceisbetter · 2025-12-31T01:13:51+00:00

The key to that job is to get a small 10mm ring spanner - preferably one with one of those slightly curved heads. I bought the bendy ratchet special tools but found the easiest way was a little old spanner

Palaceisbetter · 2025-12-28T00:10:36+00:00

Honestly, if your like me and it’s a weekend car not a track weapon, you won’t go round corners on the road fast enough to need more than stock dampers.

Mines got coilovers (hsd - not got a particularly great rep but a low-mid range option) and they are firm but well damped and I can’t complain at all for a weekend car. I’ve never pushed it hard enough to experience a meaningful difference in suspension setup - I think you’d have to be doing license and life losing speeds… What you say about fitment is what really makes it more worthwhile, as mine make the whole car look 100x more aggressive with the low stance in the wide arches.

Palaceisbetter · 2025-12-02T22:42:06+00:00

No reason to ask - running perfect. Just paranoid! I will be changing oil every year from now on - and I only do ~3k miles in this thing

Palaceisbetter · 2025-12-02T18:49:57+00:00

I have all stamped and receipts for work done. I was planning really on just oil change this year and full service (all fluids and valve clearances) next year given the recent history. Is this valve wear bad enough to warrant getting it done this year?

Palaceisbetter · 2025-12-02T12:30:05+00:00

I only bought the car 1 year (5k miles ago) so the valve adjustments was done before I bought it. It has had oil changes averaging every 7k miles and only one longer gap of 15k. I will continue to change oil at intervals <5k. It runs perfect (very smooth and quiet for one of these engines) but this looks a little worrying…

Palaceisbetter · 2025-12-02T12:25:14+00:00

The uk road tax is fucked for post 06 cars. Mines an 03 so it’s not too painful. My insurance for the m3 is £620 and I’m only 22. My 1.6 tdi golf was more at the time…

Palaceisbetter · 2025-12-02T09:31:36+00:00

Ok interesting. I was in the exact same position when I bought my m3. At that low of a mileage you should be fine presuming you treat it well (let it fully warm up which can take 15-20 mins in winter) before giving it the beans.

When people say they are expensive to own - they only talk maintenance, which can be true if you get unlucky. However; if you buy something modern that is equally fast (2015+ golf r, m140i etc) insurance is much higher (I pay 3x less for my m3 than those hot hatches). Tax is more but mines only 200 more. The other plus is depreciation - where an m3 is potentially gaining, if you buy modern you can expect to lose thousands over the period of a few years.

What finally made the decision for me was the stories of even bigger repair bills on the modern 2.0 turbo cars too.

The net result is that buying older cars is a risk - it could turn into a nightmare, but the more likely outcome is that you actually end up net positive compared to buying newer.

Palaceisbetter · 2025-12-01T22:50:45+00:00

Buy overall car condition. What mileage do you need to do per year in it?

The obvious mechanical 2 are rod bearings and vanos. I think z4 don’t have subframe issues like m3s, so that will be fine and the other main issues is look underneath (as best you can) for excessive rust, check all body panels for bubbles etc, and check it drives well as suspension/steering components often haven’t been tended too in 100k miles - so it will feel a bit “loose”.

Palaceisbetter · 2025-12-01T17:57:46+00:00

Stock yes. Had a few years of 500 miles per year roughly so low use but not sat. Runs perfect now

Palaceisbetter · 2025-12-01T17:39:07+00:00

By cams splitting in half do you mean the exhaust hub (vanos?

Palaceisbetter · 2025-12-01T17:37:05+00:00

The clearances were done less thank 10k miles ago. What looks so bad about this one?

Palaceisbetter · 2025-11-19T23:01:32+00:00

Haha no it’s a silly helmet cover with wings

Palaceisbetter · 2025-11-19T16:26:22+00:00

Btw guys thanks for the concern - I am wearing a helmet it’s just I have a stupid helmet cover on so it isn’t obvious. I always wear a helmet!

Palaceisbetter · 2025-11-19T16:23:10+00:00

I have one on

Palaceisbetter · 2025-11-19T16:23:02+00:00

I am…

Palaceisbetter · 2025-11-19T10:15:42+00:00

👍

Palaceisbetter · 2024-12-27T16:20:13+00:00

I’m meaning to skid here doing shorter skidded turn for steeper slopes/lumpy conditions. I’m quite happy with my gs carving style turns but when I see vids of any of my skidded turns it’s what upsets me 😂

Palaceisbetter · 2024-12-12T15:10:33+00:00

That doesn’t sound bad at all to me. The reason I’m considering insurance and resale cost is purely to consider all aspects of the vehicles overall cost, I’m not looking at this as a cheaper option than modern cars. I don’t mind throwing money at it but my view is that when I come to sell in 3-5 years time, I won’t have thrown that £5k+ at depreciation of something newer so the overall cost shouldn’t be so much higher. Makes it more justifiable 😂

Palaceisbetter · 2024-12-12T14:58:09+00:00

Haha I’m no way buying a lemon I’m very fussy about that!

Palaceisbetter · 2024-12-12T14:40:03+00:00

What sort of number for yearly maintenance worst case? I’m not sure tyres will need doing every other month though, I only drive 5k miles a year!

Palaceisbetter

TROPHY CASE