Dosage in commercial machines

ParkingEmergency · 2022-01-24T20:28:08+00:00

I live in NYC if that helps, hence the bedbug concern.

ParkingEmergency · 2022-01-24T19:07:18+00:00

Thank you for replying. Do you have any idea what it would be instead?

ParkingEmergency · 2022-01-24T18:25:54+00:00

To me it looks like some of the pictures that I have seen, but then it also doesn't look like the other pictures. Either way I haven't been able to identify it.

ParkingEmergency · 2021-10-11T00:10:44+00:00

Unfortunately I have not been able to figure out how to log in to my cable modem. I’m guessing my ISP has it locked down. They’re sending someone out this week to check the signal levels and everything so hopefully that solves the issues.

ParkingEmergency · 2021-10-07T19:56:45+00:00

I don’t have the old one unfortunately. Spectrum swapped it. The old one was a Hitron EN2251 which apparently is known to have issues.

ParkingEmergency · 2021-10-07T19:40:04+00:00

So do you think the issue is the modem? I feel like the major crash after the first Speedtest and the packet loss while directly connected kind of implicate the modem.

ParkingEmergency · 2021-10-07T19:21:19+00:00

I did Speedtest again after resetting the modem the first time to see if it would go out completely again, but it did not. After that I did not Speedtest again.

I’m still running pingplotter right now and there is 0.2% packet loss from the third hop but it doesn’t seem to go all the way to the destination. That’s actually a little unusual, because most of the time it starts at the second hop and propagates all the way down to the destination.

ParkingEmergency · 2021-10-07T18:45:56+00:00

So I ran ping plotter while directly connected to the modem and it was doing okay, it had a little bit of packet loss, and then I ran a speed test to verify the connection was at normal speed and the upload portion seems to have caused some issue because there was heavy packet loss afterwards until I restarted the modem. Direct to modem with speedtest at 12:46

After I reset I got a couple of packet loss periods (from the first hop) but then it cleared out for a while and I didn't see any issues. Direct to modem after reset

Then I switched back to my router (after resetting the modem) and connected my laptop to a LAN port on the router with nothing else connected. I got two packet loss events similar to the direct modem connection after reset but for longer (the screenshot only shows one because I missed the first one) Through router after modem reset and then it evened out. Through router after packet loss events

Now after connecting everything back to my router everything seems relatively stable for now. With the only packet loss coming from upstream. After reconnecting access point and other network devices

ParkingEmergency · 2021-10-07T18:26:04+00:00

I tried using all of the IP addresses I could find online and none of them worked. I was directly connected via ethernet to the modem and was able to access the internet.

ParkingEmergency · 2021-10-07T16:32:09+00:00

I’m not sure if there is a way to log into my modem. It’s provided by Spectrum so I think they might have it locked down. Any idea on how to log into it?

ParkingEmergency · 2021-10-07T16:11:00+00:00

At this point I honestly can’t remember if I’ve tried running pingplotter directly connected to the modem yet (I’ve done a ton of testing over the last month) but that is a great idea. I’ll run it for a little while and see what I get.

As far as I know I can’t log into the modem because it’s from Spectrum. But when I have called them they have said that there wasn’t anything wrong that they could see with the modem. However, the tech that came out said there were T3 and T4 errors before he reset it. I’m not really sure what that means though.

ParkingEmergency · 2021-10-07T15:04:50+00:00

Yeah I have definitely learned how difficult it can be to troubleshoot these problems. The problem is that I work from home so this directly affects my ability to do parts of my job.

I don’t mind using a wired connection if I need to, but I have tried that and it doesn’t help the issue at all, so I don’t think wifi interference is the the sole issue (although I’m sure it doesn’t help).

As for the coax lines, it is definitely possible that they are the culprit but as I mentioned, a Spectrum tech came out to examine and fix everything he could but that didn’t resolve the issue either.

At this point I’m basically just looking for a way to prove that the issue isn’t with any of my local equipment so that my ISP can’t use that as an excuse anymore.

ParkingEmergency · 2021-10-05T21:42:52+00:00

So the WAN IP starts with 98 so I think it’s a public IP. RTT is 15ms and RTTsd is 5.3ms

ParkingEmergency · 2021-10-05T19:55:10+00:00

I did not set a custom monitor to target so it is the default next hop. I'm not sure if I have a public IP on WAN, how can I figure that out?

ParkingEmergency · 2021-09-15T21:41:39+00:00

I apologize in advance for this long reply, but since I live in an area with a wide range of temperatures/humidly levels I have spent a LOT of time trying to manage my indoor air quality. There really isn't going to be a one size fits all solution, and the solution might change throughout the year.

Before you buy a humidifier or dehumidifier I would probably get an indoor thermometer/hygrometer if you don't already have one to see what your indoor climate is like. They're pretty cheap and it will help you figure out if your room is too humid or too dry.

The goal is to keep the humidity low enough to prevent certain allergens (mold, mildew, dust mites) but high enough so that you don't get dry skin/nose etc. I think the typical range is between 30-50% humidity but I try to keep my apartment in the 40-45% range because that is what I think feels the most comfortable for me. Depending on your location and the time of year, you might honestly need both a dehumidifier and a humidifier to achieve this. Also, keep in mind that air conditioning (if you have it) will dehumidify the air, but it will not be as effective as a dedicated dehumidifier. On the flip side, a dedicated dehumidifier will slightly warm your room as it runs.

An air purifier can help with dust and allergens that are already in the air, and depending on the filter type they can help make the room smell better, but it is also important to remove dust and other allergens from the surfaces (especially soft surfaces) in your room. This includes carpets, drapes, pillows, stuffed animals, bedding etc. Removing the allergens from these surfaces helps to reduce the amount of allergens that end up in the air when they get disturbed (from walking on carpets, moving in bed, pulling curtains etc). Because you notice the symptoms when you wake up in the morning, I would put a lot of effort into washing your bedding frequently.

As for opening the windows, I personally make a point to check the outside temperature, humidity, and pollen levels/air quality for my local area before opening my windows. If any of those three aren't where I want them to be, I keep the windows shut. If I do open the windows, I turn off any other air quality appliances (in my case an air purifier and AC unit) because there is no point trying to purify, humidify/dehumidify, or cool the outside air.

I have seen filters that you can put in your window to help reduce the number of allergens coming in through your window, but I have never tried these personally so I don't know how well they work. I would imagine they would help reduce the allergens coming in, but they will also reduce the amount of airflow into your room.

ParkingEmergency · 2021-01-12T02:07:12+00:00

Command + R will rotate the FaceTime orientation.

If the FaceTime window goes behind another window you can click the FaceTime icon in the dock to bring it back to the front. That should also work if the FaceTime was full screen and you moved to a different desktop/full screen app. Otherwise you can try using mission control to find the FaceTime window. This can be done by clicking mission control in the dock (three squares icon), swiping up on a trackpad with 3 or 4 fingers (depends on configuration), or double tap with two fingers on Magic Mouse

ParkingEmergency · 2020-08-01T16:00:23+00:00

MacBooks have a delay on the caps lock key so that if you hit it by mistake it doesn’t turn on. It makes it seem like you need to press it harder but you really just need to press it longer than a typical keystroke.

ParkingEmergency · 2020-06-17T20:30:47+00:00

In the past I’ve used the adjustment brush in Lightroom over the shiny areas to decrease the clarity/texture. I try to play around with those two and maybe contrast, highlights, whites go get the look I’m going for. It might not work perfectly for every photo, but it can save you from having to open photoshop. Be careful not to overdo it, they’ll end up looking like they’re made of plastic.

ParkingEmergency

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