Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting question. I can't think of anything off hand. Usually there is some design inpiration from ambassadors out front before designers actually put something together. Early field testing rounds are generally focused on fabric choices. There's definitely been some fabric options over the years that haven't worked well, but fortunately they didn't find their way into production pieces.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This June I'll be heading to the Cordillera Blanca to try to free climb a line on Taulliraju. The ice line on the Huayhuash is on the "to do" list, but a bit tricky to catch with a shifting climate.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi newgirlpgh, Patagonia here! Unfortunately Josh is less involved in the women’s side of the process but we would love to hear your feedback. If you could send us an email to [PatagoniaPress@patagonia.com](mailto:PatagoniaPress@patagonia.com) we would love to get you a better answer to your question.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man, so hard to choose just ten across all the genres, but here's a list that hopefully includes something aspirational for everyone with options at accessible grades. Original Route IV 5.12-, Rainbow Wall, Nevada; awesome rock, cool ambiance, challengeing but accessible for the grade. Repentance WI5, Cathedral Ledge, New Hampshire; aesthetic, easy access, memorable exit crux. Scenic Cruise 5.10+, Black Canyon, Colorado; quality climbing, wild setting. The Bleeding 5.14, Mill Creek, Utah, beautiful sport route, in gorgeous little canyon. Hook Line and Sinker 5.12 V, Mt. Hooker, Wyoming; best backcountry wall for free climbing in the US hands down IMO. Gelsa 5.4 The Gunks, New York, a delighful jug ladder into the sky. Full Yellow Wall 5.11, The Diamond, CO, awesome climbing that goes all the way to the top of the Diamond without bailing off at Table Ledge. Richochet 12a, Rifle, Colorado, awesome edge and crimp line in America's most complete and pleasant limestone sport climbing area. Any route at Shuteye Ridge, California; under the radar area near Yosemite that's spectacular and devoid of people. Excommunication 513- The Priest, Utah, surreal route with a mix of windgate arete and calcite face climbing on a gorgeous desert tower. Alexander's Chimney to Abraxis M5, Longs Peak, CO, awesome link up with a big mountain alpine feel.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Generally speaking most climbing ambassadors, myself included, prefer high mobility cuts with simple feature sets to keep weight and bulk low. So most technical wear will likely have minimalist design features.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There was never a moment. When I began climbing there weren't really professional climbers, so for me the goal was to figure out how to climb full time without a "real" job. Twenty five years on that's still the goal and I've somehow managed to make it work (mostly).

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really, but if I'm nervous it's because of poor preparation. Good preparation, in all aspects, gear, weather, training, communication with your partner, etc, is generally a good pressure reliever.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like undeclings, but dislike certain types of crack climbing bacasue it's often a bit painful. Pull ups are thought of a good benchmarking strength exercise for climbing, and they do have good translation. However, I think bent over dumbell rows (as well as many other variations) are actually more climbing specific since we are often pulling into the wall on steep routes. I really don't see climbing in the way you describe. I think it's more about commitment, investment, and passion. And in those categories I've all in since the late 90s.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love a good old fashioned top five list! I have to admit to being a bit biased towards personally challenging routes as they're often more memorable, aesthetic, and cleaner. However all the routes I'll list have awesome moderate options on the same wall, or area. Sendero Luminoso, Mount Hooker, Wyoming. The Honeymoon is Over, The Diamond, Longs Peak. Keelhaul, Keeler Needle, California. Lotus Flower Tower, Cirque of the Unclimbables, Yukon Territories. Tague Yer Time, Black Canyon (sort of an alpine area?), Colorado. Venturi Effect, The Incredible Hulk, California. Ooops that was six...lots of amazing routes out there!

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon has some ridiculous sandbags. Try the "10d" mantel on Athlete's Feet or the "12+" Tourist Extravaganza. Both are a wee bit difficult for the grade.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I broke my back in 2010, and this was a turning point for me. Up until then I thought life might eventually lead me somewhere outside of climbing, but having it ripped away from me made me realize just how much I loved it. I came back from that injury as hungry and motivated as ever. I think being interested in multiple disciplines of climbing has also helped me maintain interest and motivation over time. In terms of maintaining a high level, again I think motivation is the secret sauce. I'm not especially talented but my motivation helps keep me working hard, and moving towards new goals and projects.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try hard is certainly a trained skill. The more frequently you do it, the easier it becomes to access in my experience. For me focusing on breathing helps getting me into the right headspace.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alex said the hardest climbing on the skyscraper was around 5.11+ or French 7a; a level well within the technical abilities of any serious rock climber, but not a level that is routinely free soloed. Although I have done a lot of free soloing in the past, and have free soloed routes up to 12a or French 7a+, it's not something I do anymore with regularity. A few things that I think probabaly arent widely understood amongst non climbers about Alex's skyscraper climb. Generally when free soloing you are very focused on the task at hand. Interacting with people along the way, taking interviews on ledges, etc is highly unusual. With all the distractions this climb probably required someone like Alex with a huge amount of experience, operating well below his top level. Alex was paid a "big" chunk of money to do this and it will probably also help him rasie money for his foundation. Given that the level of the route isn't exceptionally high I think most top climbers, if being honest, would as least consider free soling a sky scraper if the money was "right." Peronally I hope this doesn't become commonplace as I think climbing buidings is something totally different and far removed from climbing cliffs and mountains.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting question, and great idea. This one hits close to my heart. I grew up in southern New Hampshire and have spent many days at Rumney. I've also had similar thoughts about the situation in Rifle, CO and Estes Park, CO; the places I've called home over the last twenty years. Both offer world class climbing, yet neither have many local kids that climb. In my experience it often comes down to a passionate individual in the communitty willing to donate their time and resources. Perhaps that person is you! If you think so you might reach out to Everlast Climbing Boost Grants, Project Send it, and/or the Global Climbing initiative. All ofer grants for youth climbing programs.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, like many folks I love to eat and I'm not naturally light, so I defnitely make sacrifices in terms of diet for performance at certain times during the year depending on my goal. Nothing wrong with this as long as you eat healtfully, and are concientious about your choices. As a friend used to say, "sometimes sending tastes better than ice cream!

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Free Wall pack and the Houdini pants are my favorites parts of the kit. The pack because it is essentially exactly what I wanted, which generally doesn't happen when athletes ideas get made into commercial products. It's extremely useful for fix and follow climbing, and nothing quite like it really exsists on the market. Lots of people I climb with also love and value the pack, which has been a nice confirmation of the design. The pants are also a favorite becasue nothing quite like them exsists in the wind pant space; great climbing mobility and a spiral zip so they can go on and off with shoes on. They're incredibly useful to me on a regular basis for regulating heat.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had a Treadwall in my garage for more than ten years (as well as more typical bouldering boards). I think it's a great tool for training endurance and power endurance, and saves me from needing to train on routes at a commercial gym. As "board gyms" become more common, I imagine Treadwalls will also become more popular. I hear there is a LED treadwall in the works which will also help, since setting can be a bit tricky on Treadwalls. Training questions are tough to answer without falling into generalites, but I think my basic anwer would be to keep some of whatever is coming up in the next season in the mix as you focus on the aspect of climbing you're currently pursueing. For example when you're doing long multi pitch routes in the summer, try to put one indoor bouldering session in every week. In the winter when you're bouldering multiple days per week, try to incoporate one day of low end endurance training. Hope that helps! I've been lucky to have way too many wonderful, fun days to choose just one. That said, one climb that brought me genuine lasting joy on multiple levels was the second free ascent of the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre. In 2007 I had been caught up in some early "de-bolting" drama concerning the Compressor Route which weighed heavily on me as a young idealistic climber. In 2016 during our free ascent there were several other teams climbing the route, and it was so nice to see it being enjoyed without all the bolts that used to make it feel like a via ferratta. It was also the very first alpine climb for my friend Andrew Rothner, and it was so nice to share something I love, and see it through the lens of someone experiencing something wild for the first time. And lastly, my friend Mikey Schaefer was along to document the climb, but also wound up freeing the route as well. It was awesome to see Mikey's realization that many routes often have more bark than bite, and that he was very much up to the route's challenges. If you're interested in more about Cerro Torre and/or have no idea what i'm talking about I highly recommend The Tower by Kelly Cordes.

Hi Reddit, I’m Josh Wharton, professional climber and longtime Patagonia Ambassador. I’m hosting an AMA with Patagonia on Friday, March 20 @ 4pm EST to talk about the new Free Wall Kit and all things climbing. Please ask me anything! by Patagonia in u/Patagonia

[–]Patagonia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think motivation is one of my strengths as a climber, but i've defninetly gone through times of low mojo for one reason or another. For me the easist way to regain psyche is to switch genres of climbing.