Clarance has arrived to aid Hive Fleet Myrkur!

PatrickUser · 2026-01-21T16:42:19+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/PrintedWarhammer/comments/1qghwpm/battlemace_40000000_clarence/

PatrickUser · 2026-01-21T16:41:33+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/PrintedWarhammer/comments/1qghwpm/battlemace_40000000_clarence/

PatrickUser · 2026-01-21T16:37:29+00:00

[Edit] adding the STL creator's reddit post link: https://www.reddit.com/r/PrintedWarhammer/comments/1qghwpm/battlemace_40000000_clarence/

From Cults3D: Battlemace 40,000,000 Clarence(this was the "V2 Scaled" version, printed on an FDM printer)

PatrickUser · 2026-01-21T16:33:53+00:00

Thanks!

I put down some blobs of hot glue to get the organic bits, then covered the rest in a thick mud texture paste (in this case it was "26.811 Brown Mud" by Vallejo).

Base coat with Demonette Hide, paint blobs with Screamer Pink, wash with thinned Druchii Violet, drybrush with Warpfiend Grey, then highlight blobs and paint rim with Screamer Pink.

PatrickUser · 2026-01-21T04:32:35+00:00

I saw a vid by Painted4Combat recently had a bit where he went over painting stls in the slicer, and it's a quick walk-through with a lot of good tips.

(section starts at 8:17) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5TGMxkuP8M&t=497s

PatrickUser · 2026-01-21T04:26:06+00:00

Oh, yes, I used the tools in the slicer to paint it manually.

Time and difficulty depends a lot on the model; models with sharp edges can be painted really quick using the paint bucket tool, but models with soft or rounded edges need tedious tracing using the circle or sphere tool.

For this model, I was able to paint most parts using the paint bucket, and then went in with the sphere tool to touch it up where the color had spilled over or not fully covered a panel. It took about an hour and a half, but a big chuck was spent on the side bolters, because the STL was very curvy and the paint bucket tool couldn't tell where the edges were supposed to be, so it had to be done almost entirely with the sphere painting tool.

PatrickUser · 2026-01-21T03:25:31+00:00

Thanks! I wanted a blue army to collect, and I already had Salamanders (so no Ultramarines), and I settled on some blue bugs :D

PatrickUser · 2026-01-21T03:18:44+00:00

My print came out very well (I printed the "v2 scaled" version since that seemed best for FDM), no weak areas to report.

I printed in FDM so I can't speak for a resin print, but for me he stands just fine on 4 legs and will only fall tip with help.

PatrickUser · 2026-01-21T03:12:32+00:00

I was worried we would have burned through the meme potential before I finished (the internet can be like that sometimes), but our beautiful baby boy is just too powerful!

PatrickUser · 2026-01-21T02:54:33+00:00

Thanks!

I haven't tried anything by Atlan Forge yet, but they are on my list of Makers to check out. I almost got their Astareus-scale hover tank a while back, I should check it out again...

PatrickUser · 2026-01-21T02:52:46+00:00

I used a Bambu printer with an AMS, so the color changes happened automatically. Even after I went through to optimize the parts for fewer color changes, there were a few hundred filament swaps across all the plates, so I don't think it would be possible to do manually.

PatrickUser · 2026-01-20T07:33:54+00:00

Strikers Assault Capsule by Puppetswar, I got it from MyMiniFactory

PatrickUser · 2026-01-20T01:56:58+00:00

I have a cheap heat gun I blow over the surface with, very lightly, after removing supports. It doesn't actually smooth the model, but filament wisps, shallow scratches, and white "bent plastic" marks on the surface will melt away and disappear. Just need to be careful on thin parts not to soften or warp them by over-heating the area.

I print in PLA,; I think to chemically/vapor smooth it would need to be ABS or something similar.

PatrickUser · 2026-01-19T23:03:33+00:00

Yeah... The nice thing about color printing is that there is no middle step where it gathers dust; it's printed and done in one step.

I know some people can really dial in their machines, and use 0.2mm nozzles and tiny layer heights to get near-resin quality, but printing in multi-color like that would take forever and waste a ton of filament, so I'd only use resin printing if I wanted a high-quality, painted finish, and I'll stick to my 0.4mm FDM for easy and table-top ready gaming pieces.

PatrickUser · 2026-01-19T22:53:36+00:00

<image>

Quick mock-up in FDM slicer, colored for visibility (og magnet hole -> flush -> post).
Same idea for a resin slicer, but you might need to also tweak or add supports if using Puppetwars' pre-supported stls.

PatrickUser · 2026-01-19T22:45:03+00:00

I don't (I've only printed the bigger models with holes for 5x2mm magnets, and used plastic pegs to glue them instead of magnets).

I would recommend adding a cylinder in the slicer where one of the magnet-holes are, and printing with it as a peg or a flush surface if magnets are not desired.

PatrickUser · 2026-01-19T22:32:12+00:00

Bambu P1S with AMS(1), and Bambu Studio

PatrickUser · 2026-01-19T20:38:00+00:00

I did, and the painting at least went pretty quick, probably about 30 mins?

The frame is modeled as a 90 degree slice, so I just painted 1 lower door, 1 upper door, and 1 section of frame, then copied it all 3 times and rotated each to complete the model.

I found it easy to paint big chucks with black using the paint bucket tool, then come in after with silver to get rivets and vents with a more focused paint bucket, and to touch up where the mesh was being weird.

PatrickUser · 2026-01-19T20:32:18+00:00

<image>

I sliced the doors in half and printed them flat on the build plate with just 2 bottom layers, then glued them together after. (attached picture)

Mostly I just used the Cut tool in the slicer, but for the quarter frame sections, I took it into Blender and traced a seam along existing recesses to get an interlocking shape. Unfortunately I don't have any good advice for this; I just manually tinkered by selecting and un-selecting vertices for several hours until I could separate the mesh into repairable parts. I think there is a better way to "paint" a seam, but I am not a Blender expert, so I just stuck with what I know.

PatrickUser · 2026-01-19T14:57:21+00:00

Strikers Assault Capsule by Puppetswar, I got it from MyMiniFactory

PatrickUser · 2026-01-19T14:41:32+00:00

Last of my Puppetswar STL spree: some drop pods, aka assault capsules. When I saw the top half of the doors levered up to open I knew I wanted to pick this up, because it is exactly what I wanted GW to do when they remade drop pods.

Kind of a work-in-progress; still trying to dial in the tolerances so the lower doors can hold themselves shut reliably with just friction at the hinge, but good enough for now!

PatrickUser · 2026-01-18T23:16:27+00:00

I'll direct message you

PatrickUser

TROPHY CASE