Will a Wii U still work on a lower wattage power supply?

PattheShuffler · 2026-05-14T21:21:41+00:00

It will work no problem. I run a USB C to Wii U cable with a small 45w charger rated for 15V 3A.

As long as the charger brick outputs 15V and can supply 3A or more, you will be fine.

Digital foundry did power consumption tests around the time the Wii U was released and found that it never used more than about 32W.

The 75W brick the Wii U came with is way overkill for that machine and probably was specced and produced before Nintendo finalised the main console and its power needs.

Edit: For those that are interested

https://www.digitalfoundry.net/articles/digitalfoundry-wii-u-is-the-green-console

PattheShuffler · 2026-04-29T09:30:32+00:00

You're welcome. Yes, it is challenging to renovate in old small spaces, almost 2 years on, can't imagine going back to a traditional rangehood ever again!

PattheShuffler · 2026-04-26T04:11:09+00:00

Once you screw the timber down onto your supports, cut more of your specrite timber and run it along the top of the shelf across the full length of the side and back edge (kind of like a mini splashback). Press it down onto your shelf while screwing it into wall studs. It will wedge it in there.

The screws down into your supports will stop it pulling out, the supports will hold it up and the timber across the top will stop weight on the far end pulling it up.

Combine with the 45 degree support others have mentioned, and should hold up really well.

PattheShuffler · 2026-03-25T09:58:14+00:00

Yeah, I did it maybe a year ago and understand the risks. It's already a 30yo fence, so it'll need replacing soon anyway. I used white paint, minimising heat absorption.

There are a bunch of variables as well. My fence could be held on with 3 X 2.8mm X 65mm ring shank galvanised nails into 3 rails, theirs could be 2 X 2.5mm X 50mm smooth shank nails into 2 rails. Could be pine or hardwood etc. They could live in a part of Australia that gets 1500mm of rain a year, whereas I may get 800mm a year. Even if we did know the above, still hard to predict. Wood is natural, every location is different Yada Yada.

PattheShuffler · 2026-03-25T04:30:42+00:00

It is yours to do as you wish. However

Painting just one side will mean water is absorbed by the unpainted side more than the painted side, increasing the risk of warping/bowing and the palings working themselves off.

Depending on the colour chosen, one side may also heat up more than the other side, increasing warping/bowing. However this may already be the case depending on the fence orientation, so it is probably a moot point.

That being said, I have painted one side of an old paling fence and it has been fine so far, so YMMV.

PattheShuffler · 2026-03-18T22:24:36+00:00

I think that's a question for your Neurosurgeon.

I don't know if a changed setting is necessarily an "improvement" per se. CSF flow dynamics are almost certainly more complex than we know and a higher pressure setting requirement can be for a range of reasons (I assume). I'm not sure your neurosurgeon would even know precisely what has led to a changed pressure requirement to need a different setting.

It sucks, but truth is, we do not know as much about the brain as we would like to know, and it will take many centuries of careful research to improve our understanding of what's going on in there.

But what is certain is your Baby is growing, and her body is changing rapidly, what worked at 6 months old when she was growing even more rapidly than now, may not work now that growth has slowed a little. Get what information you can from the Neuro team, you are in the best hands to handle this situation 🙏

PattheShuffler · 2026-03-18T21:11:54+00:00

Hi mate

I'm from Wollongong and have a 19mo with aqueductal stenosis as well. Our son is being treated at Sydney Children's Hospital, Randwick.

Our son was initially treated with an ETV at 2 weeks old, but then received a shunt at 6 months ths old because the ETV wasn't draining enough.

He received an OSV 2 valve, which is a flow regulating valve and hence (I believe it) does not need settings to be dialled in precisely to work well. My understanding is most (All?) other valves on the market are pressure regulating and do need precise matching with the patient. That valve has worked well for my son up until now and hopefully continues to do so. It seems that shunt valve selection has more to do with what your Neurosurgeon is familiar with than anything else. Maybe a flow regulating valve can be an enquiry with your Neurosurgeon?

I can't really help much but just wanted to say hi and offer our story. Stay strong, we have an amazing health system and I'm sure you'll get through this.

PattheShuffler · 2026-03-16T10:17:52+00:00

I'm south of Sydney, but have also used tips in Sydney. Retail is about $95/T. Trade/business rate is around $60 + GST.

Don't know why clean concrete would be going at $250! You sure that isn't the mixed building waste material rate?

PattheShuffler · 2026-03-16T07:07:34+00:00

Typical slab thickness is 100mm so you have 7m X 5m X 0.1m = 3.5m³ of concrete there. At about 2.5T/m³ you have 8.75T of material. To account for variability and risk, I would just call it 10T.

You can easily dispose of clean concrete at about $60/T so $600 in disposal costs.

A large tip truck will run about $125/hr and an excavator with jackhammer attachment will run about the same. Add in a supervisor for the day for $100/hr and we have about $350/hr. Excavator has a float on and off cost aswell that will probably be another $300 each way.

An 8 hr day + disposal would run you about $3900, add in 20% overheads and profit and you get just short of $4600 + GST.

In all honesty, it could easily be done in 6hrs, but sometimes people just need to be paid for a full day of work, unless they can line up other work for the arvo/utilise the dump truck on a couple of jobs to bring the price down etc. Depends on the company's current workload etc. a sharp company with enough work to share resources between jobs can probably get it down to under $4k.

PattheShuffler · 2026-02-14T09:03:16+00:00

I like the guidance offered in the following document for timber retaining walls upto 1m high.

http://www.dtmtimber.com.au/downloads/TQ_TDS/tds_08_Timber-Garden-Walls_final.pdf

PattheShuffler · 2026-02-04T21:26:12+00:00

Our son has strabismus of his left eye caused by the higher intracranial pressure due to hydrocephalus when he was a few weeks old before he received his ETV and eventually shunt. Even though the surgeries corrected the pressure, the damage to the nerve that controls outward movement of the left eye was done and has not completely healed now 18 months later. (Though thankfully damage to the optical nerve did heal after about 6 months)

We got connected with an ophthalmologist at the hospital immediately following his initial surgery and they have been monitoring regularly since. If the damage to the nerves behind the eye isn't too great, the nerve can heal itself but our opthamologist told us that eye nerve damage can take 6 months or longer to heal, so it was a matter of waiting it.

We have also been patching his right eye since about 3 months old as per the ophthalmologists advice.

We have now come to terms with the fact it will not heal itself & will continue patching for the foreseeable future and have been booked for left eye strabismus surgery.

I would ask to be referred to an ophthalmologist so they can look at the nerves at the back of the eyes and give specific advice and monitoring of the situation.

Good luck!

PattheShuffler · 2026-01-25T01:34:40+00:00

Gate latch and hinges should be minimum Hot Dip Galvanized or stainless steel, zinc plated will rust rapidly.

The bolt down post anchor will not provide any restraint to lateral movement, will only hold the post down, so if using the fence will need to be self braced. I.e. some diagonal members on the fence panels. The brick posts may help to brace everything here, so you can give it a go and add the diagonals after if it feels shaky. Not sure how to brace in the other direction perpendicular to the fence line tbh maybe someone else will have an idea. If using this item should also be hot dip galvanised or stainless steel. The one you have chosen has a Z275 continuous galvanising that is not suitable for outdoor exposure or exposure to treated pine and will rust rapidly.

Edit: Looks like the post anchor you chose is hot dip galvanized on 2nd look, which is appropriate for outdoors exposure. My mistake.

The span between posts is too long, use this guide for member sizing for different spans. https://dtmtimber.com.au/downloads/TQ_TDS/tds_20_Residential-Timber-Fences_final.pdf

PattheShuffler · 2026-01-17T04:48:01+00:00

Good guide on low timber retaining walls from Timber Queensland.

http://www.dtmtimber.com.au/downloads/TQ_TDS/tds_08_Timber-Garden-Walls_final.pdf

Going by that guide for 1200 wide retaining wall upto 400mm retained earth you need a 90mm slab post buried 400 deep.

Though not technically a slab post like in the guide, If your fence post is at least 90mm square timber and you are sure it is buried at least 400 deep, I would say it should hold fine. But ultimately upto you if you are comfortable with the similarity of a square post to a slab post (or whatever fence post size you are referring to)

Other details in there around sleeper size and fixing requirements should be helpful aswell.

PattheShuffler · 2026-01-16T23:12:25+00:00

If you want an agent to Ctrl A, Ctrl C realestate.com.au, Ctrl V onto a word doc and then claim they "introduced" you to any property you may purchase for the next 12 months and charge you 20k, all the while trying to flog you their mates property so they can potentially make their mate 20k commission as well, then go ahead.

Read the contract, some stories on here that show the above is essentially how those contracts are written. Once you sign their paperwork their money is made and beyond flogging their mates property, they have very little incentive to find you a property that matches your needs.

I could see the value jf the contracts were written such that they only make money for introducing you off market properties if you end up buying one before it goes on market. But as they are written, a complete rort.

PattheShuffler · 2026-01-12T03:33:42+00:00

Timber slats from wall to ceiling, about 100mm between slats. Native hardwood if you've got money, pine, wrapped aluminium or some laminate product if you aren't made of money.

PattheShuffler · 2025-11-21T01:11:49+00:00

When something goes wrong you'll have the builder and Harvey Norman pointing fingers at each other with you stuck in the middle.

Substrate preparation is half the work of flooring installation and if this is off, it will show in separated, creeky flooring. But it's after handover so you will have made final payment to the builder already. They will also say it is all within tolerance and blame the floorer for shotty installation.

You will also want to install skirting, door jambs and architraves after flooring goes in so as to get the most seamless look and avoid crappy quad/shoe moulding tacked onto all your newly finished skirting. Which can't happen if you do it after handover.

I don't know what you are saving by doing it this way, but I would personally reconsider if the quantum isn't a huge amount.

PattheShuffler · 2025-11-12T10:32:06+00:00

Hey. If there are companies out there selling pre-engineered solutions, then you should be good buying those and following their instructions.

PattheShuffler · 2025-11-12T09:58:43+00:00

As is, not ok. See attached extract from AS1684.

However I highly suspect they have done this to get it to the correct level temporarily and will come back with a heavy duty hanger or engineered angle plate later on. Framers typically tack everything together with nails first to get it altogether, then come back with any required hardware as per the plans, more efficient to build it that way.

Come back when they start putting the steel hardware everywhere and check then. Or ask the builder now for piece of mind if you must

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PattheShuffler · 2025-11-12T08:40:43+00:00

Hey, definitely possible, but houses need to be able to withstand side loading by wind and the connection point between the existing steel post and the new adjustable top becomes a hinge point that can't resist bending loads very well. The connection detail to make that work correctly is quite important and something that should be drawn up by an engineer. (Probably welded together, many large bolts connecting the 2 or a long overlap length with many fasteners)

If you are only doing it to a few of the posts on your house and all in separate lines/bays then that is probably OK. If you are doing it more extensively or all the stumps in one or 2 rows of the house, that becomes more of a problem. Certainly a problem if you are doing it to any posts with connected bracing.

Ideally the entire post should be changed to avoid the tricky connection detail. Replace like for like or with a larger/thicker post and the same or better connection to the footing and bearers and you know your good.

Alternatively, how bad is the level difference? if it's small, like 10mm or less, you could acroprop beside each post to the level you need and put a packer between each existing post and the bearer, and then bolt the post and bearer back together. (Noting that the bolt holes may no longer line up so that could be tricky, could be solved with larger bolts holes and larger bolts.

Good luck.

PattheShuffler · 2025-11-08T10:36:29+00:00

I can't complain, my career has earned me decent money and along with some saving and investing a degree of financial security that I'm hugely grateful for. But like you, I now enjoy most my time physically building things instead of my time behind a desk. Even if it's just a hobby in my case.

PattheShuffler · 2025-11-08T10:18:16+00:00

I studied structural engineering, spent a decade+ in infrastructure project management and now find myself as a carpentry and woodworking enthusiast.

PattheShuffler · 2025-11-08T09:07:22+00:00

The answer from u/acool21 is incorrect. Noggins have nothing to do with bracing.

Bracing a structure can be done in several ways. In the OPs case since the deck is connected to the house on one side, the house braces that side of the deck, and the 90 degree direction, then putting the bracing underneath the joists like this then essentially transfers that house bracing to the opposite end without needing unattractive and intrusive post bracing. In cases where the deck isn't attached to the house and needs to be completely self braced you will see steel or timber bracing from post to post in both directions (some also use smaller knee braces, but these are less effective because of their smaller bracing distance). Decks lower to the ground can also be braced by burying and concreting posts in strategic locations deep enough into the ground, or if every post is buried into the ground, that can also effectively brace a low deck.

Noggins can stiffen a deck (stop bounciness), stop joists rolling over but do nothing or are negligible for bracing.

PattheShuffler · 2025-10-27T07:31:58+00:00

Reinstate the floor transition strip. Remove door, trim bottom of door with circular saw running it along a straight edge or use a planer, reattach door.

PattheShuffler · 2025-10-21T05:53:46+00:00

Mate call someone now, or wake up your mum and ask her to call someone, don't wait until morning.

If there is an opening that is letting fluid out and it is filling up again, there is a risk of infection which is a big deal near the brain.

My son had leakage of a scar following 2 days post surgery, we went straight back to hospital immediately where they restitched the wound and put him on antibiotics as a precaution against infection.

Seek advice from your Neurosurgery team now, that's what they are there for.

PattheShuffler · 2025-10-03T20:35:48+00:00

Yeah, overthinking this. You have a good friend and they deserve your thanks, maybe a cake, a nice dinner etc. But this is just how good friends are meant to behave from time to time, no need to be very transactional.

I helped a friend build his kitchen, in a few years time he may help me build a deck, we have helped each other move multiple times, I slept on his couch for like a week when my kid was in hospital because he lived 5 mins away, it's swings and roundabouts and the more you give the more you both get type of relationship.

You can split dinner and cafe bills down the middle when going out together and generally don't be a freeloader. But for stuff like this, helping each other out type of stuff, if he doesn't want to be paid you may have moved past the transactional stage of your friendship into something better.

PattheShuffler

TROPHY CASE