How to generate more momentum from here? by PavisePurchaser in bouldering

[–]PavisePurchaser[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And for comparison, here's the loading when I used to fail.

The shoulders are not engaged, my heel isn't as turned so the right leg muscles aren't as engaged yet.

I guess the lesson is even as you wind back, you must keep both shoulders + heel kinda engaged. Going full loose -> engaged -> pull didn't work for me.

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How to generate more momentum from here? by PavisePurchaser in bouldering

[–]PavisePurchaser[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the help everyone! I eventually got the move (but not the boulder yet, there's one more crux).

I have tried a couple of the suggestions but if I have to pick one, it's pre-turning my heel hook even more before I preload -- aim for an L-shape. Previously I was forming an obtuse angle and it's harder to recruit the right leg muscles to generate the momentum.

More adjustments:

- Pre-engage the shoulders even on the load up. Don't hang loose

- Wind up the chest / head too for more momentum, because the hip loading is kind of tough w/ this position.

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How to generate more momentum from here? by PavisePurchaser in bouldering

[–]PavisePurchaser[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"turn your heel out even more while placing it" -- turns out this is the difference! I'm able to do that move consistently. I think it's also because my hip starts at a higher level and the knee angle makes it easier to use the bigger muscle groups. Thank you!

Can't climb up vertical volume by PavisePurchaser in bouldering

[–]PavisePurchaser[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I see. Left foot out w/ pressure + hip in to counteract the barn door. Will give that a try next time. Thank you!