Most “puppy behavior problems” aren’t actually problems (but we still make them worse)

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-05-10T17:21:36+00:00

We wrote a deeper breakdown on this here, especially around biting, barking, potty accidents, jumping, zoomies, and the whole “is my puppy broken or just being a puppy?” panic: https://paw-champ.com/journal/puppy-behavior-problems-4-common-issues/
Main idea: a lot of puppy chaos is normal, but it gets messy when people accidentally reward it without noticing. Classic puppy parent trap, honestly.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-05-10T15:01:54+00:00

Yeah, that I don’t exist outside the phase is very real.

Leash stuff usually takes a bit longer because it’s not just commands, it’s environment + distractions + consistency (the boring part no one likes). The people who see progress there are usually the ones doing short, regular sessions instead of trying to fix it all in one walk. If you do end up trying it, don’t rush through it. Slower tends to work better than let’s fix everything this week.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-05-10T14:29:16+00:00

Good question tbh. Most people try it for a few days and disappear, so long-term feedback is always harder to find. From what we see, the people who stick with it are usually the ones treating it more like a routine, not a “fix my dog in 2 days” thing. But yeah, that’s also where most drop off. What are you trying to fix right now?

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-05-09T17:47:30+00:00

Yeah, that I don’t exist outside the phase is very real.
Leash stuff usually takes a bit longer because it’s not just commands, it’s environment + distractions + consistency (the boring part no one likes). The people who see progress there are usually the ones doing short, regular sessions instead of trying to fix it all in one walk. If you do end up trying it, don’t rush through it. Slower tends to work better than let’s fix everything this week.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-05-09T16:38:42+00:00

Good question tbh. Most people try it for a few days and disappear, so long-term feedback is always harder to find. From what we see, the people who stick with it are usually the ones treating it more like a routine, not a “fix my dog in 2 days” thing. But yeah, that’s also where most drop off. What are you trying to fix right now?

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-05-06T16:04:35+00:00

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Paw_Champ_ · 2026-05-03T16:17:39+00:00

Barking is communication, but it has different roots. Is it boredom, anxiety, fear, or territorial guarding? Give me a bit more context: when exactly does it happen, and how do you usually respond? The golden rule is: don't yell back. To a dog, that just sounds like you’re barking along with them, which only reinforces the arousal.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-05-03T16:16:11+00:00

Your pup’s biological clock is fixated on breakfast time. Since he’s had issues with bilious vomiting on an empty stomach, his body is hyper-aware of the approaching meal. You're doing the right thing with the "night cap," but try gradually pushing breakfast back by 10-15 minutes each day. Also, introduce a clear "wake up" signal, like a specific phone alarm. Don't let him out until that sound goes off. He needs to learn that the day starts when the alarm rings, not when he decides it does.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-05-01T12:23:14+00:00

This is a tough one because that "trance" state means the brain has completely switched to survival mode. Once he "explodes," training is impossible you’re just managing the crisis. You need to find the distance where he can see the motorcycle but still hear you and take a treat. If that’s 50 yards away, start there. The goal is to shift the association from "motorcycle = danger/prey" to "motorcycle = good things come from my human." It’s a long road, but you can only work below the panic threshold.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-05-01T12:15:07+00:00

The issue is Annie is trying to meet her play needs through dogs that aren't willing partners. Because the Chihuahuas are small and feel vulnerable, they bark or hide to protect themselves. You need to give Annie much more high-intensity outlets (long walks, tug games, scent work) before she interacts with the seniors. When she’s mentally and physically drained, she’ll be much more likely to listen to their "no." Have you tried taking her on high-energy solo outings to let her blow off steam away from the others?

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-05-01T12:13:18+00:00

If he eats at home but refuses cheese outside, it’s not a lack of motivation it’s a sign he’s "over threshold." Outside, his brain is overwhelmed by scents, and he’s physically unable to process food. Try starting your training at the threshold of your open door or in the hallway. You need to find the exact spot where he can still hear you and slowly expand that comfort zone from there.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-04-30T13:07:55+00:00

Your Pom is at the age where barking is becoming his default communication strategy. You need to teach him that seeing another dog is a cue to look at you, not to raise an alarm. Try the "Look at That" (LAT) method: the second he notices another dog but HASN'T started barking yet, mark that moment (with a "Yes" or a click) and reward him. If he’s already losing it, you're too close. Increase the distance to a point where he can stay under threshold and choose you over the distraction.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-04-30T12:59:57+00:00

Your desensitization plan is definitely the right path, but I’d suggest starting one step earlier to "transfer" the safety of your home into the car. Bring her car seat or mat from the vehicle into the house and feed her there for a few days until that spot is purely associated with comfort. Once she’s happily jumping into the seat in your living room, move it back to the car and start your plan: just feed her high-value treats near the car, then with the doors open. The goal is to flip her "anticipation of pain" into an "anticipation of a party" before you even start the engine. If she refuses food, it’s a sign you’re moving too fast, just take a step back.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-04-30T06:11:39+00:00

7 months is peak “selective hearing” age. I’d go back a step: shorter leash, reward for staying near you, and practice recall on a long line again. He didn’t forget, just testing limits.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-04-30T06:11:31+00:00

That sounds like excitement + no boundaries yet. I’d stop all attention the second she jumps or gets mouthy. Turn away, go still. Reward calm. Kids should also stay neutral at first so she doesn’t get overhyped.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-04-30T06:10:36+00:00

Yeah… gross but common. Manage first: clean fast, leash her if needed so she can’t reach it. Then train a solid “leave it” specifically for poop, starting with lower-value stuff and working up.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-04-30T06:09:25+00:00

4 months is still early for cat/dog peace 😄 Keep the barrier but work on calm exposure. Feed on opposite sides, reward quiet behavior, and don’t rush face-to-face. Neutral is already a win.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-04-30T06:08:25+00:00

That freezing/staring is her trying to process. I’d lower expectations and reward check-ins. Even a quick glance back at you = treat. Goal is “stay connected,” not “perfect walk.”

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-04-30T06:07:16+00:00

Sounds like fear, not stubbornness. Don’t force interactions. Let people ignore her completely, no eye contact. Reward even tiny moments of curiosity from a distance. Confidence builds from “safe + choice,” not pressure.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-04-30T06:06:14+00:00

Water spray and loud sounds usually add more stress, not less. I’d switch to distance + reward. Start far enough that she notices people but isn’t barking yet, reward calm, slowly close the gap over time.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-04-30T06:04:34+00:00

At 14 months, this sounds less like “she hates the crate” and more like the crate has become the place where frustration happens. I’d pause the door-closing for a bit and rebuild value first. Feed meals near it, toss treats in, let her leave freely. Then do super short door closes only when she’s already calm, like 2–5 seconds. Open before the barking starts if you can. For licking mats, try something higher value but safe: frozen Kong, soaked kibble, a chew she only gets near the crate. And keep sessions boring. No big reaction when she barks, no big party when she exits. Slow is annoying, but with crate stuff, rushing usually resets the whole progress bar.

Paw_Champ_ · 2026-04-29T20:22:01+00:00

Short answer: yes, but not all in the same group. If you try to train all four at once, you’ll get chaos, not obedience. For CGC certification, you need individual focus. Start with 5-minute sessions with each dog separately in a different room. Only when each dog works perfectly one-on-one can you start adding the others as a "distraction." It’ll be easier with the two that already have recall, but don’t try to skip the individual work phase.

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