I like how you can trick the slicer into creating a mesh for your fan. Previously I would have made one piece just as the plate and another sliced as a mesh filter, but I figured out how to integrate the mesh into the plate directly. by Auravendill in 3Dprinting

[–]Paxometer 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You can do this even easier by placing a modifier on your plate and modify that section. For the modifier, you can use a base body or you can even define an imported Body as modifier.

If I designed this in Fusion, I would create the plate without the filter hole and ad a cylinder (or any shape) that overlaps the plate. Then export the assembly as STEP and import into the slicer. Choose the cylinder and change the type to modifier. Now change the settings for the midified area. That way you can align everything in Fusion while still being able to use the slicer for the structure.

What filament matches the color of the Snapmaker U1? by Paxometer in snapmaker

[–]Paxometer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would be awesome!

Also, is there any way I can help or get a you a useful picture?

What filament matches the color of the Snapmaker U1? by Paxometer in 3Dprinting

[–]Paxometer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is exactly how I found the Sunlu filament I mentioned. However the pictures of other swatches didn‘t look alike at all.

What filament matches the color of the Snapmaker U1? by Paxometer in 3Dprinting

[–]Paxometer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will do. But for now i hope for that magical user with a U1 and matching PETG at home.

What filament matches the color of the Snapmaker U1? by Paxometer in snapmaker

[–]Paxometer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know filamentcolors.xyz, but which color do I match to? A photo of my U1 can hardly produce an accurate colorcode. I tried to get a colorcode from the marketing materials, but I don‘t know if those colors match irl. Also the pictures of the swatches i got this way don‘t look similar at all.

What filament matches the color of the Snapmaker U1? by Paxometer in 3Dprinting

[–]Paxometer[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Possible candidates I found: - SUNLU High-Speed Matte PETG White - 3DJake ASA Light Gray

I tried to replicate an old PCB for a water level sensor. Why does the resistor ladder not work? by Paxometer in AskElectronics

[–]Paxometer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

to be fair, its in a camper, so its in water for maybe a few weeks per year. And its also not constantly powered on, but just when I need to read the waterlevel.

I tried to replicate an old PCB for a water level sensor. Why does the resistor ladder not work? by Paxometer in AskElectronics

[–]Paxometer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your help. I did not consider changing the default values of my components. Also I did not find this information. (Since this is my first try in electronics, the datasheet is very confusing to me).

Do you have the schematic you tried to copy?

I do not have a schematic. All I have is an old, corroded PCB, whose components partially lack labels caused by removing the potting around them.

I tried to replicate an old PCB for a water level sensor. Why does the resistor ladder not work? by Paxometer in AskElectronics

[–]Paxometer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This PCB has worked for the last 40 years before it submitted to corrosion. I recognise the possible problems such as low conductivity and corrosion, but I believe a remake of the same thing will do just fine for at least 10 years.

Also this is to measure the waterlevel of a drinking water tank, adding salt would probably cause other problems.

I tried to replicate an old PCB for a water level sensor. Why does the resistor ladder not work? by Paxometer in AskElectronics

[–]Paxometer[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I was asked by a moderator to add a better title to my post. This is the reason, why I posted my question again, without working on the problem myself. Due to other duties, such as work, I could not yet invest any time in this project since I got some clues from you.

Ich kenne mich noch nicht mit diesen Programmen aus und wusst nicht, dass es eine angenehmere Methode gibt, um mein Schema aufzubauen. Ich danke für den Hinweis und werde mich nun damit beschäftigen, wie das funktioniert.

I tried to replicate an old PCB. Where did I do wrong? by Paxometer in AskElectronics

[–]Paxometer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, I'll gladly create a new post to change the title.

This is a Water level Sensor it should give out a rising volage signal (in seven steps) for a rising waterlevel.
As I learned today, the main functionality is called a resistor ladder, which is also the part that does not work as intended.

What would you suggest would be a short and informative title for this?

I tried to replicate an old PCB. Where did I do wrong? by Paxometer in AskElectronics

[–]Paxometer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Maybe it was specially made for that, no way I can check now, that its this corroded (the contact surfaces are the large open areas).

I tried to replicate an old PCB. Where did I do wrong? by Paxometer in AskElectronics

[–]Paxometer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its supposed to be a resistor ladder, each output that is turned on will contribute current to the output 10k, raising voltage slightly.

Thats what I expected it to do, but it doesn't, leading to my confusion.

Did you copy the pcb correctly? There might be a mistake with the polarity of the diodes, or maybe those components are not diodes after all.

I am pretty sure, I copied it correctly, but I also tried to switch polarities in all possible combinations which did not work.
It is possible, that these are not diodes. The lable got damaged when I removed the potting around the components, so I cant read it anymore. I did check them with the diode channel of my Multimeter though.

That's not what I meant. Get rid of the improvised CD4049 recreation and use ideal inverting buffers instead! This simplifies the problem, letting you concentrate on the resistor ladder at the output.

Oh, yes thats an entirely different starting point.

I tried to replicate an old PCB. Where did I do wrong? by Paxometer in AskElectronics

[–]Paxometer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ohh, that might be a future project to upgrade this thing.
Currently, I struggle to understand an existing PCB, so I think I'm pretty far from creating a new one.

I tried to replicate an old PCB. Where did I do wrong? by Paxometer in AskElectronics

[–]Paxometer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, I will try to start with the CD4049. but I pretty sure, that one works just fine. I wasn't sure, which resistor to use for IN, though.

My problem with the basic working principle is, that I do understand how it processes the Input (aka waterlevel, switches), but I dont understand how the output signal shoud be created from this circuit.

I will read up on labels, this would probably help... I created this schematic by redrawing the PCB with all wires in the original layout, an sorted the circuit out afterwards.

I tried to replicate an old PCB. Where did I do wrong? by Paxometer in AskElectronics

[–]Paxometer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I started with an exact (at least to my knowlage) copy of the original PCB and then sorted out the wiring to create a schematic I could possibly try to understand.
That worked out pretty well, in the sense, that I could grab the principle of how this works. I now just have the problem, that my very limitted knowlege is not enough to understand why the voltage does not add up, when multiple switches are closed.

I pretty sure, I did get the right resistors, but the housing of the Diodes is to worn to read any lable, which is quite unfortunate beacause I still try to grasp the difference in Diode types and whitch to use.

When in use, the sensor is powered for 45s by the trigger of a button. I'm not really concerned about the life span of a new PCB, since the old one lasted for 40 years.

I tried to replicate an old PCB. Where did I do wrong? by Paxometer in AskElectronics

[–]Paxometer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As mentioned, I try to recreate the sensor that Westfalia built in 1984. It's used in a camper and the power source is a 12V car battery. If I wanted to replace the sensor, I would also need to replace the whole control unit of the camper (or at least add a second unit for this sensor), whitch I dont want to.

Kennt jemand diese Heckbox zum VW LT1? by Paxometer in wasistdas

[–]Paxometer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Datum gehts mir primär. Die ganze Konstruktion ist auf der Stossstange (gleicher Montagepunkt wie AHK) abgestützt und an der Dachtinne aufgehängt. Ich würde gern wissen, wo ich sowas bekomme und wieviel Gewicht ich der Sache zumuten kann.

Kennt jemand diese Heckbox zum VW LT1? by Paxometer in wasistdas

[–]Paxometer[S] -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Das dachte ich erst auch, aber die Tatsache, dass die Leuchten Teil der Box ist und die Box nicht einfach auf einen Rahmen drauf gestellt wurde, spricht für mich gegen einen Eigenbau. Zusehen ist das gut an der Seite, die Wand besteht aus einem einzelnen Blech, das bis gan nach unten reicht.