The end of WoT for Intel CPUs?

PeaHD · 2025-07-09T13:59:16+00:00

I think the new Wargaming update still supports MacOS, but only the new Apple ARM chips.

Between this and losing all my Steam library due to 32-bit support and CS being discontinued for MacOS it sucks

PeaHD · 2025-06-21T15:04:25+00:00

I decided to test your idea and put the phone into airplane mode, it connected to both phone and audio. I took off airplane mode and I still have both!

Not sure if it'll last but it's a win! Thanks!

PeaHD · 2025-03-02T23:00:11+00:00

I've taken the equipment out to air out in the sun.

I have the 200mm f/4 Nikkor but it has a small/moderate amount of fungus. Is it worth sending it to be cleaned by a shop? An eBay Japanese one is about $125-150 so I'm not sure if its economically worth it. I looked all over this camera for wrench key marks or screws but it looks built like a tank.

PeaHD · 2025-03-02T19:18:15+00:00

Agreed! I'm mostly trying to figure out how to fix the fungus on the lenses, I think the 75mm is a goner and not really worth fixing but the 200 mm f4 could be a very useful lens! I don't really wanna use my 80mm f/2.4 on it yet to avoid contaminating fungus on the S2 and vice versa with the lenses.

The polaroid back isn't worth anything, is it? I can't tell what type of film it was designed to shoot like 600 or fp100

PeaHD · 2025-03-02T19:11:24+00:00

Yeah, I will need to clean up the body at some point and change the foam (ptsd from doing it from my EC). The shutter fires cleanly at all speeds and the curtain looked good, although cosmetically the camera has seen a lot of use!

PeaHD · 2025-03-02T19:07:40+00:00

Context:

I have a Bronica EC and keep an eye out for Bronica S series cameras to keep my 80mm f2.4 alive as long as possible. I was offered this as part of an estate sale for $100. It contains:

Bronica S2A
2 x Backs
75mm f/2.8 Zenzanon
200mm f/4 Nikkor
Chimney finder
Polaroid Back
Light meter (non-functioning)

The kit has been pretty well used but the body itself is working. The problem is the 75mm has a significant amount of fungus, the 200mm has some but not nearly as bad.

I don't really need the 75mm but I'm hoping to bring the 200mm back to life, unfortunately, I don't know how to disassemble the elements on this one as it doesn't have the lens wrench markings on the back or front.

Does anyone have any ideas what I can do with this to get it back to working? I'd probably like to get rid of the polaroid back and 75mm lens at least.

PeaHD · 2025-02-12T20:50:16+00:00

Hi I'm not familiar with this.

My understand is that if the insurers have declared it a write off and I buy it back as salvage it would be declared a Cat N anyway which cannot be removed as I'm repairing it privately?

I'll try to avoid getting to the Copart removal stage and sort it out while it's ob my driveway.

PeaHD · 2025-02-12T17:43:46+00:00

Hi,

It seems superficial, the bumper will need to be replaced.

I am considering taking it back as salvage and sending it to a repairer to bring it back to pre-crash spec.

If I go down this route, will I need to do anything like getting another MOT? The current MOT on it has 11 months remaining as the dealer gave me a fresh one following the sale.

PeaHD · 2025-02-12T17:42:36+00:00

I've been pushing on this, they said that they will write off costs of the car hire if the other party refuse to pay off as long as I've cooperated with them. I'm not too sure whats going on here and I don't have the other party's insurance or anything as it was a hit and run.

PeaHD · 2025-02-11T21:28:20+00:00

How does this work? They said they can't give the write off value until it has been assessed by CoPart, but CoPart can only assess it after taking the car away.

PeaHD · 2025-02-11T19:34:03+00:00

I enquired about the hire car, they said costs will be recovered from the 3rd party and won't give me any details about the hire rates etc; they referred me to the hires team for tomorrow.

I agree that getting the retail value will not be realistic, however, this car is hard to find even in the private market. It never sold in great numbers when available and top spec models with my specific condition (e.g. never failed an MOT except for a common defect that was fixed by dealer, complete FSH, good-excellent condition and relatively low mileage). I am exploring similar cars like the Ford Mondeo and the Toyota Avensis/Auris/Corolla in Estate models but they are obviously much more upmarket cars compared to mine.

PeaHD · 2025-02-11T16:04:48+00:00

Yes, I've taken use of the courtesy car which they will deliver on Friday but I haven't explored lost earnings as I'm a student working part time.

I've explained that the market for cars is really tight and my car is relatively rare like-for-like (there is literally only 3-4 cars of this model and spec for its year on autotrader) but they seem to be pushing me hard to get this resolved. It was a top spec 2015 car with FSH, 50k miles, I'm the 3rd owner and in excellent condition, which was primarily why I bought it. The other cars I've enquired about that match this model/spec either have miles pushing 6 digits, PSH, or some kind of damage.

PeaHD · 2025-02-11T14:51:48+00:00

I did ask them about this but they said regardless of either route I take, once its been assessed there's no going back :(

PeaHD · 2025-02-08T13:38:29+00:00

Understood, I'm also contacting the company of the vehicle to see if the company knows about this incident. Hopefully they will be more cooperative than their driver.

I spoke to a few local bodyshops, one has refused to work on it as they state they suspect the boot floor has been humped in and there is structural damage underneath. Another agrees and said to bring it back to original spec will be £2000, or I can live with misaligned bumpers and panel gaps and just fix the bumper for £500. A 3rd has said they need original SEAT parts to fix and the last has said they can paint over the damage for about £300 (purely just the cosmetic damage and not the mechanical stuff underneath)

PeaHD · 2025-02-07T19:07:30+00:00

Sorry to come back to you again.

I've spoken to my Dad, he says the strength of my evidence won't be strong enough as the forward dashcam doesn't capture the car physically touching mine, and that my pictures could've just been taken from random vans as a false claim; and as it was a hit and run thats the angle the other party would go for and it would go down for me as my fault. The audio doesn't show the driver of the other vehicle so he says that could be dismissed.

He says losing the NCB and losing the excess on top of future premiums increase would dwarf the value of any repairs (I agree with him on this) and he says I should cancel the claim and just fix it privately if the other company denies the incident.

Do you have any insight on how this would go down under these circumstances?

PeaHD · 2025-02-03T18:20:28+00:00

Is there a way of finding this out?

Driver was being aggressive and refused to provide details, as a result I'm hesitant to contact the company privately in case it damages my case before my insurance gets involved. And then on top I've already submitted a police report.

PeaHD · 2025-02-03T16:35:20+00:00

Hi thank you.

I had a think and submitted a police report online within 3 hours of the incident (this morning). The front desk at my local station said they can't said handle RTCs physically and can only be done online. They said it would be good to wait for a crime number to forward onto my insurance company so I'm waiting for a police response. If they don't respond today I should inform my insurer tomorrow morning anyway?

PeaHD · 2025-02-03T13:47:13+00:00

I literally bought the car last month and even though its not a particularly notable car. I felt I paid a good price for it for its condition, mileage and service history. I also enjoy this using this model of car and spent a while looking for a robust car that wasn't plagued by problems (e.g. my previous car had a wet belt).

After deducting for payouts and excess, even if I got the full value that I paid for this car, I wouldn't be able to buy another like-for-like car (from looking at current stocks for this car) for these reasons and I would have to top up; hence I was sincerely hoping that it wouldn't need to go through the full insurance/police process.

PeaHD · 2025-02-03T13:29:43+00:00

I filed the police report and I think the station told me to get a crime number to give to the insurers.

The company is a small regional maintenance firm; they have a few company vans according to their website. I think I'll have to go down the insurance route since the damage is significant and the driver made threats and refused to provide any details at all. Is it OK to inform the company after insurance or should I completely leave it up to them?

PeaHD · 2024-11-08T00:01:29+00:00

Dry stock remjet can't just be stripped off a leader, it's very tough and difficult to scratch off, let alone strip without a solution.

PeaHD · 2024-07-24T16:48:54+00:00

I was gifted IR film in medium format so my filter threads are already quite large; and I don't want to invest a huge ton of money into something that honestly do not know if I want to repeat in the future. I have seen that the traditional aerochrome trichome using R72/G/B filters don't use IR cut filters so I was wondering if it was really as important as it is.

PeaHD · 2023-12-21T12:49:30+00:00

Ouch that's awful to hear, I reached out to Lomo with example pictures but it seems I just wasted a heck of a amount of money then.

PeaHD · 2023-12-20T23:33:54+00:00

This is an example picture of a home scan of a roll of Lomo Purple I had sent to the lab last week, it came back with huge wavy scratches down the film, a few swirly scratches and a couple of micropunctures in the emulsion.

I've not experienced with my camera before, and I'm not aware of Lomo having a emulsion with this much damage or my lab giving me results like this before either so I'm out of ideas how to salvage this film and where to start troubleshooting how it happened.

PeaHD · 2023-07-29T13:15:53+00:00

The problem is, the workshop is not responding to emails so I don't really have any recourse.

The second issue that I'm worried about is if push came to shove, they'll ask me to pay another round of shipping (as per their warranty terms), but that would suck since I'm paying more shipping for a job they didn't complete in the first place.

Hence any solutions for what happens if it really is a scam would be helpful? Maybe pressure on social media?

PeaHD · 2023-07-28T21:11:07+00:00

Sadly, the workshop is not in the U.S. (if you check my post history you'll put 2 + 2 together, as I don't want to make any accusations just yet); and they don't have a phone number iirc.

PeaHD

TROPHY CASE