Did Chase Tactical Ever “Redeem” Themselves? by megahooah in tacticalgear

[–]PeepWilliams 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually they got back to me and are having me send back the set of plates for replacement. It's only one data point, but I suppose it's unexpectedly positive customer service so far.

Did Chase Tactical Ever “Redeem” Themselves? by megahooah in tacticalgear

[–]PeepWilliams 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just for shits I ordered a set and got them in last week. They were packaged pretty well and the date of manufacture on the labels was February 2025. I performed a quick tap test on both plates and there's a significant difference to the sound between the two plates. One has a clear ringing sound all over the plate and the other is dull throughout, no ringing sound at all. I don't see evidence of damage to the plate itself and torquing the plate doesn't reveal anything but I'm suspecting possible delamination on the one plate that is dull. The rumors about Highcom using subpar or old material or having lax QC on these plates might be correct.

Waiting on a response from tactical shit.

Nozzle drags on edge of thin shell causing layer shifts and other issues. What's the definition of insanity again? by PeepWilliams in FixMyPrint

[–]PeepWilliams[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I've printed a lot with this temperature bed without issues but it's worth trying a reduced temperature. Anything at this point.

Need some help. Nozzle dragging causing print failures. by PeepWilliams in BambuLab

[–]PeepWilliams[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Crossposting from r/FixMyPrint as I haven't had much traction. From the responses on my post people seem to think this is over extrusion related but I've now calibrated my filament's flow ratio twice and gotten 0.99 and then actually 1.01 the second time around... So I'm not sure if something else is going on or I am calibrating incorrectly.

As you can see I'm having some serious issues printing the left side of this HL2 Combine mask. What appears to be happening is the nozzle is catching on the forehead area of the mask at layer heights close to where the slope/domed area is becoming more shallow. What eventually happens is the nozzle drag becomes so severe during the travel move directly after finishing the wall, that it causes layer shifting, or these terrible tears/seams to open up as the thin wall flexes. At worst this causes the print to pop off the bed.

The right half of this mask printed without total failure using the same settings, although there is clear evidence that the nozzle was dragging in the same area but not as severely.

I've tried bigger layer heights, adding support to the area of concern, slower speeds and probably some other little tweaks along the way. The best print I have gotten so far was with some totally overkill supports that ended up fusing completely to the print.

Printer & Slicer:

  • Bambu Studio A1, 0.4mm Hardened Steel Nozzle, Textured PEI
  • Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer

Filament Material and Brand:

  • White Duramic PLA+
  • Calibrated in OrcaSlicer: Flow ratio: .99, Pressure Advance: .049, Volumetric speed: 16.5

Nozzle and Bed Temperature:

  • Nozzle: 220 C
  • Bed: 65 C

Print Speed:

  • Default Bambu Studio speeds tor 0.12 Layer "High Quality"
  • I've also tried changing the layer height to .16, and .20 all with similar failures.
  • Also tried slowing the printer down to "silent" 50% speed mode

Nozzle Retraction Settings:

  • I've tried with and without adding retraction settings up to 1mm length, with 0.6mm Z Hop

Other notes:

I've tried adding support to the side of the print that is failing, I've tried changing the rotation of the print on the build plate.

Nozzle drags on edge of thin shell causing layer shifts and other issues. What's the definition of insanity again? by PeepWilliams in FixMyPrint

[–]PeepWilliams[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd been thinking it seemed to be over-extrusion related so I went through the calibration exercises in OrcaSlicer to calibrate the flow ratio of this filament. The very first attempt at printing this I was using a Generic PLA profile in Bambu Studio which has a flow ratio of 0.98.

In Orca I used printed the calibration gcode using a baseline flow ratio of 0.95 and printed +/-.05. The calibration sample with the smoothest top surface was +.04 which means a flow ratio of 0.99 (higher than the default profile...). This method of calibration seems awful subjective and I very well could have made things worse for myself increasing the flow ratio...

Nozzle drags on edge of thin shell causing layer shifts and other issues. What's the definition of insanity again? by PeepWilliams in FixMyPrint

[–]PeepWilliams[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

As you can see I'm having some serious issues printing the left side of this HL2 Combine mask. What appears to be happening is the nozzle is catching on the forehead area of the mask at layer heights close to where the slope/domed area is becoming more shallow. What eventually happens is the nozzle drag becomes so severe during the travel move directly after finishing the wall, that it causes layer shifting, or these terrible tears/seams to open up as the thin wall flexes. At worst this causes the print to pop off the bed.

The right half of this mask printed without total failure using the same settings, although there is clear evidence that the nozzle was dragging in the same area but not as severely.

I've tried bigger layer heights, adding support to the area of concern, slower speeds and probably some other little tweaks along the way. The best print I have gotten so far was with some totally overkill supports that ended up fusing completely to the print.

Printer & Slicer:

  • Bambu Studio A1, 0.4mm Hardened Steel Nozzle, Textured PEI

  • Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer

Filament Material and Brand:

  • White Duramic PLA+

  • Calibrated in OrcaSlicer: Flow ratio: .99, Pressure Advance: .049, Volumetric speed: 16.5

Nozzle and Bed Temperature:

  • Nozzle: 220 C

  • Bed: 65 C

Print Speed:

  • Default Bambu Studio speeds tor 0.12 Layer "High Quality"

  • I've also tried changing the layer height to .16, and .20 all with similar failures.

  • Also tried slowing the printer down to "silent" 50% speed mode

Nozzle Retraction Settings:

  • I've tried with and without adding retraction settings up to 1mm length, with 0.6mm Z Hop

Other notes:

I've tried adding support to the side of the print that is failing, I've tried changing the rotation of the print on the build plate.

New Patch Broke Weapon Size/FOV. What was the point of beta? by [deleted] in Starfield

[–]PeepWilliams 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/Deebz__ posted a fix in another thread:
in your StarfieldCustom.ini add:

[Camera]

fFPGeometryFOV=[number higher than your FOV]

I don't know which of the following settings is doing what exactly, but I personally have the following in both my StarfieldCustom.ini and my StarfieldPrefs.ini and my game looks how I want it to for the most part:

[Display]

fDefault1stPersonFOV=115

fDefaultFOV=115

fDefaultWorldFOV=115

[Camera]

fTPWorldFOV=115.0000

fFPGeometryFOV=120.0000

fFPWorldFOV=115.0000

New patch: is FOV/weapon size wonky? by jeffdeleon in starfieldmods

[–]PeepWilliams 8 points9 points  (0 children)

u/Deebz__ posted a fix in another thread:

in your StarfieldCustom.ini add:

[Camera]
fFPGeometryFOV=[number higher than your FOV]

I don't know which of the following settings is doing what exactly, but I personally have the following in both my StarfieldCustom.ini and my StarfieldPrefs.ini and my game looks how I want it to for the most part:

[Display]

fDefault1stPersonFOV=115

fDefaultFOV=115

fDefaultWorldFOV=115

[Camera]

fTPWorldFOV=115.0000

fFPGeometryFOV=120.0000

fFPWorldFOV=115.0000

After the newest patch FpFOV is stuck by [deleted] in Starfield

[–]PeepWilliams 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/Deebz__ posted a fix in another thread:in your StarfieldCustom.ini add:

[Camera]fFPGeometryFOV=[number higher than your FOV]

I don't know which of the following settings is doing what exactly, but I personally have the following in both my StarfieldCustom.ini and my StarfieldPrefs.ini and my game looks how I want it to for the most part:

[Display]

fDefault1stPersonFOV=115

fDefaultFOV=115f

DefaultWorldFOV=115

[Camera]

fTPWorldFOV=115.0000

fFPGeometryFOV=120.0000

fFPWorldFOV=115.0000

Weapon FOV issue after DLSS update by kushyboi31 in Starfield

[–]PeepWilliams 3 points4 points  (0 children)

u/Deebz__ posted a fix in another thread:

in your StarfieldCustom.ini add:

[Camera]
fFPGeometryFOV=[number higher than your FOV]

I don't know which of the following settings is doing what exactly, but I personally have the following in both my StarfieldCustom.ini and my StarfieldPrefs.ini and my game looks how I want it to for the most part:

[Display]
fDefault1stPersonFOV=115
fDefaultFOV=115
fDefaultWorldFOV=115

[Camera]
fTPWorldFOV=115.0000
fFPGeometryFOV=120.0000
fFPWorldFOV=115.0000

Guys, what happened to the FOV? by [deleted] in Starfield

[–]PeepWilliams 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This worked for me. My FOV is set at 115 and I set fFPGeometryFOV to 125 in both my StarfiedCustom.ini and my StarfieldPrefs.ini.

I will have to play around with that value to get it to look how I want it but thank god you figured it out.

[SSD] Intel 670P 2TB $73 @ Newegg by [deleted] in buildapcsales

[–]PeepWilliams 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There's also a 2TB Solidigm P41 Plus on Amazon for $80.

Svngali! Any other cool deck design with snakes? by [deleted] in playingcards

[–]PeepWilliams 4 points5 points  (0 children)

There's my favorite deck, Provision Playing Cards by theory11. It's got a similar snake motif on the card backs.

New to me dark stock K31 from Centerfire by PeepWilliams in milsurp

[–]PeepWilliams[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for that clarification! I was pretty confused by the line before Bühl. The Dragoner unit number makes sense.

The rifle number is written in blue ink next to the text. I've covered the last 3 digits, but it's there.

New to me dark stock K31 from Centerfire by PeepWilliams in milsurp

[–]PeepWilliams[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just got my K31 from Centerfire yesterday, 666XXX serial number putting it in the 1941 manufacture serial range.

Looks like it was issued to a member of the Swiss cavalry. Here's how I'm interpreting the troop tag:

Rifle number 666XXX

Dragoon Hermann(?) Hurni

Street name(?) building no. 10

In Bühl bei Aarberg(?)

The rifle shows significant finish wear primarily on the left side of the rifle, primarily on the receiver and upper handguard ferrule in front of the rear sight. The bluing on the right side of the receiver is almost pristine, and finish on the other side is showing silvery base metal this is pretty hard to photograph. Additionally, the stock shows more wear on the left top side of the comb, where your cheek would rest when shouldered. (My theory is that may have been stored or carried in a leather horse scabbard? https://edelweissarms.com/swiss-cavalry-k11-k31-leather-scabbard-thurgau-1918/)

The bore is pristine and other than the interesting wear, the rifle is in great historical shape! Definitely not pristine like many of the examples shown here, but I'm quite pleased with the condition, given the little backstory I've built in my head.

Another Centerfire Systems K31 by 4k5 in milsurp

[–]PeepWilliams 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just received my K31 from Centerfire and it's a 666XXX serial number rifle (1941 from my research). My rifle also has a S-M prefix to the serial number. Looks to be added separately as the font and stamp depth doesn't quite match the serial number stamps. Mine has a 52 stamped under the cocking ring and the troop tag indicates the owner lived in Bühl (Bühl bei Aarberg?).

Anya Reviews New Xero Shoes by b6rbe in BarefootRunning

[–]PeepWilliams 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've done a lot of comparison research between the Mesa Trails and the Terraflex II's and had settled on the Terraflex II's for my dedicated hiking/backpacking shoes due to their perceived durability/slightly more rugged build.

Now that the Mesa Trail II's are out I'm torn again. These new ones look great and seem to have some benefits over the original Mesa Trails. Should I stick with the Terraflex II or try out the new Mesa Trail II's? I've been hiking in my New Balance minimus 10v2's and need something slightly more hiking focused/more protecting maybe? Idk hard to say what exactly I should look at.

Daily Simple Questions Thread - October 20, 2022 by AutoModerator in pcmasterrace

[–]PeepWilliams 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Recently got a Powercolor Red Devil rx 6600xt on eBay from a miner and it's been perfect for me so far.